openspaceman

2 needles, fast coarse growth and the cones tight in makes me think so too.

honey locust is gleditsia not robinia

Bark looks more honey locust

I thought a County was wasted with a Boughton. The 1NL was heavy and you couldn't skid a big log as it was too low and out the back, you were limited with what you could add as front ballast lest you broke something and I know a tale about that.. The Farmi 6 tonne was better and safer but the bottom pulley soon got bashed about so we just skidded off the lop pulley. I still have a tatty 1164 with the Farmi (except a mate has borrowed the winch and not brought it back). The original James Jones Highland Bear conversion had the 80002H winches and they were awesome but actually didn't do much better than the 40002 as they didn't have ground anchors. I'm tempted to take the 40002 winch off the 1124 and put it on the 1164 because the brakes need doing on the 1124. I can manage them alright but young people may get into a pickle. I don't know any mechanics that would do the brake job, Tom Osborn used to fit external disc brakes on his Shawney Poole dumper conversion.

Typical of a saw that's drained fuel into the crankcase and left.

Mine was fitted on the 1124 some when before 1978 when I bought it, used hard for around 40 years and still pulling on an outing today. Mind it is a 40002 which is considerably better built than the 30002 on the Holder.

Yup that's where I first remember him from but I only remembered Dinenage

Heat the tang to a dull red and straighten it. Most good billhooks seem to use a washer before bending the tang over or peening it flat.

I returned it to the owner of the saw but can get it back, take it to PM as I have a friend that travels to Wellingborough each month.

Just make sure you buy the right one as they differ between Mk1 & 2

Yeah but bmp01 is cleverer than us

Within the constraints of what people expect of a stove I cannot see much other way, Ideally one would push new logs in from under the fire. The reason the flue exit is such a narrow slit adjacent to the air wash is that the air wash is the major combustion gas, it is both primary and secondary air in a dedicated wood burner with no undergrate air. So the back edge of the air entering the fire mixes with the exiting flue gases to make sure any fuel gases have enough oxygen to burn out. The front part of the air continues down the glass preventing tars settling and then, as long as there is enough oxygen left, reacts with hot char to burn it out. This way any volatiles are burned off before the char. This complicated way of gas mixing loses quite a bit of the depression caused by hot flue gases going up the chimney, so the draw is poorer than a traditional up draught fire where air enters at the bottom then continually rises. It also means it is probably best not to reload while the are yellow flames but until the flames are purple of the char burning and open the door very slowly.

No problem using chainsaw to cut through the boards and missing the nails but I have also used a sabre saw to cut down on noise and waste.

I put the nails in a 25 litre metal oil drum, It's only half full after a couple of years but I don't get many pallets since I retired.

Nothing wrong in burning those as long as they are marked HD, KD and DB but not if painted, stained or marked MB, latter doesn't bother me a lot but... The ones with plastic or chipboard corner blocks are to be avoided too. I use a magnet to get the nails out of the ash before they jam the grate. Problem I have nowadays is they won't fit in the vitara and people don't want them cut up on site. Else happy to pick up locally

Have you put a pressure gauge in the feed from the independent pump?

Yes and dried to 20%mc by the tonne is worth slightly more than hardwood. At 4kWh to the kilo and gas at 15p a kWh what does that make it worth. Into October and still too warm to light up yet and sunny enough not to have bought electricity for 210 days running so far.

Heathland sites are acidic soils, those elements are basic metals and would raise the pH which changes the suitability for acid loving plants, especially things like bog asphodels but the heathers too.

No chance, the Eder is lighter to tab in with and far more power, can pull just short of 4 tonnes force with a snatch block. Having to carry in ground anchors doubles the weight to carry.

you should not add calcium, sodium or potassium ions to a heathland site

if you go to that trouble just put ammonium sulfamate granules into the hole and whittle a stick to plug it. Far more eco friendly than glyphosate

A bit of bare ground will be good for heather to recolonise as long as any arisings are taken off site to reduce fertility.

Winch ones as small as that out whole.

I must treat myself to a new one, what's the highest temperature they measure now?

might help to say your rough area