openspaceman

I used to borrow one of my mate's dad's Leader. Often when my Enfield was in bits.Whenever we would go downhill on overrun he would shout at me to declutch. He was 9 months younger than I and we lost touch but he became a leading brain surgeon till he retired, we never did ride together.

Okay I had changed all the hoses for tight fitting ones and fired it up but it died of fuel starvation. I didn't get more done as a small medical mishap set me back for a while plus I was disinclined to do much other than loaf around as summer went past. Getting back into the swing I tested the carburetor and the inlet needle held pressure. When the purge bulb was used it mostly pulled air. I think this is another case of the main jet check valve failing, either by previous use of compressed air or a needle being poked through it. This strimmer is worthless, and I deprecate their use anyway, it's only a challenge to me. Back in the day my saws had no purge bulbs, small hedgecutters and strimmers did, and AFAIK no check valves. I wondered were check valves used before bulbs so I chacked a carb from a 254 and they were. Now back in my thread about the walbro carb in an einhell https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/133943-walbro-carb-problem/page/8/#findComment-2030690 @bmp01 said he deleted purge systems successfully. Is it possible to also delete/block the main jet check valve so it is only fed from the H screw?? I can see the two idles jet holes in the throttle body would need blocking.

It looks like goat willow to me

A D1, just a bit older than I, was mine. First on the road Enfield 250, then a mistaken upgrade to AJS 600, luckily stolen then Bantam d14/4 for my commute to my first forestry job.

Does it have bladed (car type) fuses? It is easier to check for parasitic loads by checking for a voltage drop across the fuse (fuses work by having a resistance that heats up and melts the fuse wire if too much current passes, current passing through the resistance causes a voltage drop across the fuse). There is a little pair of "windows" at the back of the fuse which are bare contacts that can be probed. Ifthere is a discernible voltage that circuit is carrying a current. I suspect the current measuring on your DMM should be the left two sockets.

Well you may as well try to carefully dig up one of the suckers and replant it next month then.

Sorry I missed the layering bit, what failed with it. It was the normal method for propagating hazel coppice which was sparse.

Yes you could stamp on the bottom of one of the smaller shoots and lay it down and peg it to an area of bare soil six foot from the main stool for a couple of years.

The trouble is the market generally expects a product that is fairly consistent is size and shape (8-12" long I think) and the branch logger's product can vary a lot.

Pick the apples to reduce the weight then gently prop it back as above

pm sent

I think I asked you before but what are the common parts with an A55? possibly similar engines?

In practice yes but the main need is for it to dry evenly so a dry outside doesn't shrink more than the wet inside and crack. Too true Another one!

I imagine that was an interesting conversation.

It looks like wood of a fruit tree, apple my guess.

It's the chemistry of biomass. The white wood of a short lived tree serves only to support the crown it has about 1% minerals and the rest is cellulose, lignin and hemicellulose, the working parts of the tree like the leaves and bark are more complex and need all the other chemicals to do their job and it is these that need the small amounts of potassium, silicon and other trace minerals that end up in the ash. grasses have high ash content because they do not differentiate into a support system. There was a database (Phyllis) which showed the chemical content of many plants, I haven't looked for it for a few years.

I think it is much the same as wood though I bet birch bark is higher because it is oily, the main difference will be much more ash from bark compared with the wood.

Yes the ring shank nails cause a lot of split boards going to kindling

Faithfull Nail Puller 60cm (24in) | Power Tools Direct WWW.POWERTOOLSDIRECT.COM The Faithfull nail puller is the perfect tool for removing nails from most materials, lifting floorboards, opening wooden crates and... A modern version of an antique nail puller my father in law had. I never really tried it as it was designed to work. You use the slide hammer to bury the claw under the nail head then as you lever it the claw grabs the nail and pulls it. I see no reason it wouldn't pull a staple. I quite fancy one for reclaiming pallet boards but I so rarely have the need now.

My school mate had one, he said it was cooler than a bike, when we were 16. It had a tight turning circle but you could reverse it by switching the ignition on the dash and staring the engine to run backwards. It had a strange electric starter and also the kick start. It would only start in reverse by the electric starter IIRC.

Possibly Phaeolus schweinitzii, mostly found on softwoods but can affect hardwoods

If the fruitiing body is not on the log then how can it sporulate? Altough Kretz is both saprophytic and parasitic/pathogenic once the logs dry it will not fruit and hence spread.

Well the saw I first used had none of those things, nor AV, didn't cut myself with that. I'd be very uncomfortable without those items now, as I am without a seat belt in a car (my tractors haven't got them).

Three chains is probably about right for the amount of wear, I would hope to manage more before replacing the drum. Because the drive link is bottoming out it will be slightly deformed which may make it feel tight in the bottom of the bar groove when you pull it round manually.

If you use the stepped tap it will start following any vestige of original thread, the cutting bit of the step will ream out a hole which is the inner diameter of the helicoil's thread, the tap above the step will then form the new thread. If you use just a single helicoil tap you will need to drill first, this is where mistakes happen. The helicoil is just like the one way clutch you can make with a pencil and a spring of a slightly smaller diameter on it. You can wind it in because you are drivng in by the tang and, as you say the torque causes the spring to wind up and shrink its diameter slightly. Try and unscrew it and it attempts to unwind and jams against the thread, this is why it doesn't extract itself when you take a plug out. it's also why it is most important that the helicoil is short enough to sit totally withing the length of thread. Having a piece of helicoil sticking out of either end of the threaded hole is a disaster. I have never had one jump a pitch when inserting.