openspaceman

Okay I have got my head around why the check valve is on the main jet, not taken it all on board but got the gist. Anyway I got back today with a bit of daylight left and started the saw in for repair with the carb from the good saw. It starts and runs as normal. Did the sane with the good saw and the bad carb and it would start on choke and run if the throttle stop screw was wound in, clutch engaged and chain turning. Again if fluffed to a stop when the throttle was operated. Then using @spudulike's suggestion I wound out the Hi screw a few turns. Saw then ran flat out with the throttle open but was weak and running too fast, when I released the throttle a bit to slow it it fluffed and would not pick up when the throttle was opened again and died like it had no fuel. Strangely the good carb is not a walbro, I know it is original as I was given the saw several years ago when I was in a Stihl dealers and the customer handed it in. He had broken the original chain and wanted rid of it, I took it when the dealer would not. There was and is nothing wrong with it once I replaced the chain which is now ready for replacement. I'll have the bad carb off and test the check valve, I will see the owner tomorrow and have to make excuses for not fixing it in the month.

Are you retired too 😀 He has a better routine for you to follow

Promoted by googletube, it was bad enough being invited to date females 1/3 my age but these heaters and petrol saver scams annoy me more, at least before I could enjoy the pictures.

On both saws they would only run on choke and died as soon as the choke flew off when throttle depressed. Thanks for the graphic, I'll look at it properly tomorrow evening.

170 mile round trip will eat into that plus you would need a couple of lengths of 5" flue and a 90 degree bend

Thanks but is there a graphic to explain how this happens? I know there is a fixed jet plus the jet the Hi screw adjust and the idle jet but I cannot see how this weakening happens, though it does sound very much like the problem. I have a few busy days so not looked at it again yet.

Cheap enough for collection

Maybe worth warning that it can kill https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-manchester-67612361

10kW pellet stove has a lighter built in and can be made to run off graded wood chip if it is dry. Tyres light very easily if a bit of petrol is sloshed around the inside, diesel or waste oil just doesn't do the job.

Before I get enough enthusiasm to look at this again; what is the purpose of the check valve. As it is supposed to open one way from the reservoir to the main jet I take it that when I squirt carb cleaner through the Hi jet adjusting screw hole the spray should not come back past this check valve into the reservoir (it does) but only come out of the main jet into the throttle body?? Are they replaceable?

Yes it could be a bit hit and miss, I'll look at the other options first. I have a distant memory of watching a Husqvarna salesperson/mechanic using a hand pump with a gauge to test the pop off pressure of the metering valve. Then with the mixture screw opened one at a time and the diaphragm pushed to open the metering valve watching the speed the dial went down showing the air exiting via the jet smoothly. That was probably on a Tillotson carb and I never saw it done again.

I have done the carb cleaner through both the Hi and Lo screw holes as well as back washing the mesh filter from the metering valve hole. I'll try winding the hi screw out a few turns. If that fails now it is reassembled I will squirt down the Hi hole and see if it comes out of the main jet.

I told myself not to play with the einhell spear and jackson saws again after I gave the one I got given away to a member of the family but... at the repair cafe I was asked to fix one that wouldn't run other than tickover. I had to bring it home as petrol powered equipment is verboten in the hall. Anyway I got nowhere with it, stripped the carb and found nothing amiss but borrowed back the one I had given away, swapped carbs and it ran fine but smoky. I stripped the bad carb again and reassembled it on the good saw. With both jet screws out 1.25 turns it runs on choke at idle but dies as soon as the choke is released. The thing is everything looks new with even the paint on the bar looking as new. I have only ever given up on a carb once before, again a walbro from a stihl HL75. There's no way this is worth a replacement carb, the owner has already told me to dispose of it if I cannot fix it but it is a challenge. Has anyone any thoughts or guidance on how I might bend the metering lever up as it appears to be a case of fuel just not getting into the jets??

Before computers took over draughtsmen used boxwood scaled rules, I have some of my dad's war department ones, they are a bit chipped on the edges from sword fighting with my brothers.

Looks like a young beefsteak fungus

I have no liking for golf and think the courses are an environmental disaster but in my area all the newer golf courses were built on agricultural land because of a poor interpretation by the planners on what "diversification" for farming was permissible. So to build on them effectively turns what was agricultural land, and often green belt, into housing development.

The pressure will compress the air bubbles and drive it through to the return where the bubbles will expand and get carried through to the tank.

Freshly ground coffee every day for elevenses with a small dash of milk. If at work it's a flask of instant coffee, black. Never been to NY, Cape Cod was as far south as I got and never expect to go to America again as both my cousins died, so much for the American dream.

I agree but will take earl grey with lemon in summer, never with milk. Nowadays I don't enjoy tea made with tea bags either.

The mantra is "any wood is good wood if it is dry" but there are a few caveats in that many woods that have a high moisture content when fresh felled are not dense when dry so occupy a lot more space in the woodshed (and firebox) so you are continually stuffing the fire whereas a dense hardwood like beech keeps burning longer.

Yes if the wood is oven dry there is no moisture left in the sample. I had been experimenting with wood drying for over 25 years before I bought a meter and even now I would only use it to get a general indication and would revert to oven drying for a definitive answer. My moisture meter gives up at less than 10% and I'm not sure that it measures wwb or dwb. For us wood burners 25%dwb is 20%wwb so not a great difference as the figures get lower.

Yes I would expect fresh felled willow to be up to 60% water and 40% dry matter, maybe a bit less moisture in winter, especially in the middle of a larger diameter stem. Given the OP's figures if in an unheated building it would tend toward 17% mc wwb but in a warm room about 10%. The way to check is heat it to 120C for 24 hours to get a oven dry weight. Then 757-468=299 299/757=0.3817=38% mc wwb But if it is still 10% then the oven dry weight is 468*.9=421.2 and the original water content is 335.8 so the original mc =335.8/757=.44=44%mc wwb which is equal to 335.8/421.2=79.7% mc dry weight basis which is how a joiner might look at it. In practice my wood dries way below 20% mc wwb in a summer so I seldom get the meter out

It was the same with the phosphor bronze bushes on the swinging arm of old british bikes, the steel shaft wore, that I put down to grit getting embedded in the bronze and grinding the shaft, With a chainsaw small end the gudgeon pin shouldn't rotate in the piston, the movement should be in the small end bearing.

more gauche

I would love a battery saw for a bit of guerrila path maintenace but at a grand for a husky and with over a dozen 2t saws not worn out yet... Anyway to diverge a bit; to me he cut was always a plash cut and the whole job was plashing and pleaching. Never really having done any other than simple demonstrations I wonder what the etymology is, after all if you pleach trees you bend and twist branches together with no cutting.