openspaceman
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Everything posted by openspaceman
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Thanks spud, I'll give it a whirl and let you know
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An update; it looks like I did the owner a disservice by fitting an aftermarket coil. I was preparing to check the timing with a strobe as per @bmp01's suggestion and waited for dusk. I did some test pulls and found it sparked well three times then nothing, next pull nothing. Left for an hour and same again. The owner, a chap that was at primary school with me, can no longer handle a chainsaw . I have put it back on the shelf as , although it is still a nice saw, the £130 for a genuine part isn't justified as I already have far too many saws and I suspect a carburation problem too. I may well decide to get it going in the future, either with a new coil or a secondhand one.
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Crikey if that's your first one I'm impressed, I see about half of them
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You said hardwood but I didn't notice species. Oak was always best presented at stump down to about 10" QG unless you know your stuff and can cream off planking butts, at 100 year old there would be precious few big enough. In my day the white woods sold in multipes of 7ft . Once you are into the tops I guess firewood is the market, 8ft seems to be the preferred length though biomass chip may prefer 3 metres. On such a small area there is likely to be only a few hundred tonnes and a tractor-trailer with crane will be economic but if the ground is poor and the produce not perishable wait until the ground gets a bit firmer. -
Like most legumes not a pleasant smelling smoke
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bottom right is robinia
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I will take the flywheel off but agree it is probably the coil. The frustrating thing is at work we had a box of broken 026 where i could find bits as the were replaced by ms261.
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How are you measuring your 500°C and which side of the retort? Charcoal is quite a good insulator so getting heat into the middle can be a problem if you want to exceed 450°, this is one reason we used a type of kiln. The brown may not be un pyrolysed wood ( brown end, brand etc) but offgas that has been cracked as it was evolved from within the log.
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I have an old timing light strobe I can try in the dark. My guess is I would have to spin the motor with a drill. Yes the after market coil is the most likely suspect but at £110 for the Stihl part probably not an economic repair. I'll have a look at spuds post when back at my desktop.
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It sparks when the gap is opened up to ~1/8". He had been having trouble with hot starting which I guessed was weak mixture. I had fitted an aftermarket coil to it about a year ago. The current failure was when the on off switch jammed in the part throttle setting, so it had to be choked to stop it, it has not fired since. I wanted to avoid checking the flywheel key until I was confident the timing was out. Having another 026 would be handy to compare.
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Great to see you back posting. I have an old but little used, you can still see the machining marks on the piston through the exhaust port, 026 on my bench, that I cannot get to fire, despite a spark when the plug is out and having tried another good plug. Can one tell by looking at the coil trigger pick up relation to the flywheel magnet when piston is tdc if the timing is okay/
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Yes you are right, I did not explain myself very well. I meant I wouldn't want anything smaller. I like the lightness and high revs of a modern saw like the 550 and have never used a 560 but the bigger saws have more grunt for gutty work like ringing up.
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So do I but the OP may not. I am suggesting that the little saws, even the husky 550 may not survive too long doing a job like this.
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A 60c saw is what I would use on ringing up a tree like this and it is possible to deal with even the trunk with an 18" bar by cutting it into cuboidal chunks in the same way a lucas sawmill cuts one vertical pass then one horizontal one to make a beam. It is hard on the saw (and operator) and more work than cutting rings then splitting but I have done it.
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I agree but not having a job it is good exercise for me. Having been away from work for 8 years it is surprising how few sources of logs are available to me, considering how I used to harvest a few thousand tonnes a year.
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I have old saws without bulbs too and they depend on the impulse from the crankcase to fill the carb diaphragm chamber, my youngest Husky 262 takes 11 good pulls to fire from cold if it hasn't been used for a day or two. I put it down to the pumping section in the carb being a bit weak. However I would not drip fuel down the plug but rather spray it onto the air filter, I use an old scent spray with petroil in it.
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Does the MS210 have a purge bulb?
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Yes definitely don't treat anything for a problem that doesn't exist. This is another thing against the systemic neonicotoids.
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Yes it definitely needs getting off the ground, cut, split and stored under cover asap. Those front four bits look like ash to me.
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More a comment on your mum's trust and bravery
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I agree but at the end you still need to pay for the assessment . I think chainsaw use and lift truck driving are the only assessments that are required by law to be done by an independent assessor, to the standard that only NPTC can award in the case of chainsaws. Although I have been out of it for 20 years now so am not sure how the arrangement with LANTRA stands.
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The oregon ones I had as spares became unusable because the soles perished. I don't buy boots with polyurethane soles and generally go for vibram soles in walking boots (I do not expect to buy another pair of chainsaw boots).
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That's a great price, how long have you worn them?
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I only buy 5 or 10 ltr cans at one time, as I top up the car, and I haven't recently had the pump switched off on me but yes, it's a pain having to pay at the kiosk again at my local pumps as they have disabled payment at pump. Too much fraud perhaps?
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Stove statistics are they correct?
openspaceman replied to BillQ's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
No I was looking at this: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/58020-single-room-mvhr-unit-white?&msclkid=864c4c99773d132a3cfb2b17e43abc7d&gclsrc=3p.ds I cannot see why so expensive, even so it makes more sense to return the heated fresh air downstairs. I already move air from above the wood stove to an adjacent ( but for stairs) room.
