openspaceman

Yes I don't think they differentiate particulates from different types of carbonaceous fuels but they do tell the difference from particulates from brake and tyre abrasion because of their chemistry.

Misread it was for the grinder

Particulates from combustion have a different chemical signature from other particulates.

Most EVs do not pay any fuel tax (other than the 5% VAT on domestic electricity) as they charge from home. So increasing fuel duty just increases costs for older cars that then get scrapped early (don't get me into what silly faults make a car uneconomic to repair). With 2% penetration of EVs into the pool of cars it won't be long before they devise a road usage tax.

It depends on the provenance (genotype) and perceived wisdom is that it needs to be done when the stem is less than 35 years old.

It may help if people know the rough location.

One is a criminal offence the other a civil one.

If I don't hear the bang from 70 miles away you can always drop in for a tea if you go home clockwise then north.

Which ones?

I suppose that stops you driving for a while? Best wishes for pain relief and recovery Eggs

Well as things get worn the chain can snag more easily when you pull it back, if you do it with an ungloved hand it can injure. If you use the file and it jams the file can take the tip off a full chisel file. I move the teeth forward with the file on the back of the cutter for the left hand set and my hand with the right hand set as I advance those two or three cutters and sharpen them in one position. Mind I only sharpen a chain occasionally now whereas it would be a light touch up several times a day at work.

I never pull the chain back, only forward.

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Reuse the Stihl ones or buy genuine circlips for the aftermarket pistons

It looks like the sort of damage you get when an aftermarket gudgeon pin circlip has shed its tang.

6 to stop the handle falling off 7 yes you could move it up and down and bend it a bit straight but it will never be good enough to use so follow @GarethM's advice then buy new

I seldom go shopping and use the "pay at pump" machines at petrol stations and buy most toys online else always pay cash whenever I can. I also wonder who pays for those ATMs? As only the amount drawn out shows on my statements.

If you want to take it on road at all look at the tyres as mine are marked not for highway use.

They do and the fuel air mix also passes over the valve gear and into the crankcase, lubricating them so they still need a petroil mixture. Also I think that on the induction stroke some of this mixture is pumped into the cylinder.

Que? I do realise they are still lubricated by the oil in the fuel but...

That's interesting. From what I understand it's the fast charging that means the electronics have to be complicated, to avoid over heating. I have opened up a failed Ferrex charger and have not been able to see any obvious damage. I shall take it to the repair cafe and ask one of the electronics people to have a look. They are very good but do give up on highly integrated stuff like flat screen TVs if nothing is obviously wrong. In the meanwhile if you know the number of cells a generic low current charger should work. 18V packs are strings of 5 cells in series often two parallel strings. I would still not charge indoors just in case. In fact I charge mine individually to 4.15V. The batteries are nearly always packs of 18650 lithium manganese cobalt cells and if one fails it can mean the whole pack can. While the pack will be spot welded you can buy the cells with solder tags for £4.5 and solder them in to the nickel strips (best not to apply heat to the cells). I have dismantled an 80V battery from a 2016 mower and 50% of the cells were still good, my Ferrex battery had one bad cell but I was a bit hamfisted taking it apart and that made it difficult to reassemble as each cell has a pair of wires connected to the battery management system.

It seemed to be a slightly non human response

The heat storage is in order to pass back the heat into the liquid air as it expands through a turbine, similarly the cold this generates is stored to cool the air as it is compressed. It is all part of an integrated system to maximise storage efficiency, it will never get close to a battery but should approach pumped hydro efficiency at a fraction of the capital cost. Pumped hydro only stores up to a day's usage. Compressed air was stored and used to start big diesels, often on ships. When I visited the internal fire museum the owner said he went to pick up a diesel engine and its compressed air starter that hadn't been used for over ten years. When he set it up at the museum the air in the tank was still good enough to start the engine, not many batteries would manage that.

I have never done one with a bar nut but if there is enough meat left in the plastic one of these warmed up and screwed in may work. You will need a new stud to screw into it.

So won't even manage a boot load of logs on a full charge?