Megatron

First of all. Where are you getting the new crankcase half from? Stihl only sell them in sets (i.e. both sides). As Spud says you will have to remove the cylinder, tank housing etc so basically you only have the case with the crank in left. The crank is held in there by an interference fit with the inner race of the bearings and likewise the outer race has interference fit with the case. There are 5 case bolts holding the two sides of the case together. I don't think there are any dowel pins to punch out on the 361. If you can weld or are relatively good at fabricating things you can make a puller which fits to the bar nuts, to separate the case. I wouldn't recommend using a hammer to separate them! You can use a big vice/clamp to get the crank out of the flywheel side and to remove the bearings. Heat can be used to make everything slot back together. On reinstallation you will need to pressure/vacuum test the crankcase to see if all is well... What is actually wrong with this case half? or is it the bearing?

Check your PMs.

Yes, if you turn the saw upside down you should see a small hole/passage in the crankcase on the edge of the gap to the handle housing . Often gets gunked up. However, no matter what the setting it shouldn't be oiling unless the clutch is engaging the chain sprocket, which it shouldn't be at idle. Is the saw leaking oil when not in use?

One of the main reasons for cut off saws sounding rough is that they are rev limited. When not under (sufficient) load at WOT they "bounce" off the rev limiter so to speak.

Like you say tricky one. If you were to sell it ebay price would probably be in the region of £300-350, for spares or repair. If you do sell it don't include the bars as it does not make a great difference to the price, certainly not what they would be worth on their own. If you have some spare time on your hands I would have a go at trying to fix it yourself. What makes you think the carb is at fault?

Your saw should have been factory fitted with the (older) HD filter. Differences between them; -Wire mesh filter (for use in extreme wintry conditions); has a green backing -HD filter has black backing and says "Stihl HD system" on it. Uses a prefilter. -HD2 filter has chrome backing, also says "Stihl HD system" on it but also says "HD2". No prefilter. They are all interchangeable.

Stihl's policy for spare parts is to provide them for at least 10 years after the machine finished production. However, most models due to various reasons exceed this. You can still get a lot/virtually all parts for some of the older saws, for example 051/075/076 and 070/090. The 051/075/076 parts availability can be in part attributed to the TS510/TS760 cut off saws sharing a large number of the same parts and their last date of manufacture was more recent than the 051/075/076 saws. It is also important to note that some of these older models are still manufactured for the South American/African/Asian market. So these parts are still made, it is just up to Stihl to decide who has access to them. It is also worth noting that all parts do not abide by Stihl's policy. For example the 044 tank with screw caps was made no longer available in 2001 (as soon as the model stopped production). However, Stihl offer the MS440 tank with flippy caps which can be used instead. Again on the subject of 070/090 saws not all of their parts are available even though the 070 model was still produced (but not for UK market) until very recently and it's successor the MS720, which uses a lot of the same parts. So this technically violates Stihl's policy. It would be more appropriate for Stihl to say; "We aim to supply replacement parts for a particular model for at least 10 years after the model ceased to be supplied to a specific country". As for the support from actual Stihl Dealers I would imagine it would be at their discretion. For example if you walk in to the dealership wanting to find the part for a 30 year old saw they will more than likely recommend you buy a newer model, regardless if the still is available or not. It just makes economic sense for them. They may also tell you they can't service an older model because they don't have the right tools, again trying to get you to buy a newer saw. One last thing, the parts for a specific model do not all become no longer available all at once. It is a gradual process. 084 parts are currently being made NLA. BTW, I'm not a Stihl Dealer

MS181: Have you always had the problem with the oil cap? and if so have you owned the saw since new? 034av: Does it only stall out at idle? in other words if you are using it (WOT) it doesn't stall. What sound does it make before it stalls? does it "load up" and fade to nothing or is it sudden like you used the kill switch?

The HD2 filter (0000 140 4402) is now standard on MS440,MS441,MS460,MS650,MS660,MS780 and MS880 saws. The green wire mesh filter should only be used in extreme wintry conditions e.g. powdered snow, frost formation etc. The HD2 filter is also the suggested replacement for the older non-standard HD filter (0000 120 1654), which I would imagine will only remain available while factory stocks last.

It should be fine in terms of power and the oiler should cope also. You can run an even larger bar if you really needed but it if so it would be advisable to upgrade to the high output oiler and use skip sequence chain. Do you have the small factory felling spike or the large dual ones? might be eating up some of your cutting length already.

Forgot to say, serial number starting with 1223; -made in Germany -most likely 1991

That is the 0000 400 1300 coil it is also used on 024,026,028,029,039,034,036,044,048,064,MS240,MS260,MS290,MS310,MS390,MS340,MS360,MS380,MS381,MS440 and MS640 saws. However, some of these saws had other coils instead at different times in production. I'm assuming you have no spark. You can uncrew the HT lead (big grey wire) from the module and check with a multimeter. Also be sure the kill wire wasn't grounding anywhere and the coil-flywheel gap is set correctly. You can use a business card wedged between the two. If you buy a used one from one of the saws above you will probably have to change the HT lead as the only difference between the saws is the length of the lead.

See above.

I don't think all 024 cylinders were closed port. I wouldn't mind betting the 024WB wasn't or perhaps some of the later ones nearer to the MS240 introduction. Here is a 024 with closed ports (early version, shortly after Stihl stopped using the single ring piston); The second cylinder must surely be the 3120XP. The spark plug makes it 60mm. It certainly isn't from a Stihl. By the looks of the finish I would say it was made be Kolbenshmidt (KS)?

The first two are of an MS240. Third; ingested dust damage in cut off saw. Final; 020AVS

Not aware of any change in 1990. Early versions had points and condensor but I believe that was confined to the 038AV which stopped production in 1983. i.e. your saw should be electronic (038AVS was after this). Does it say "electronic quickstop" on the top cover label? Are there any wires going under the flywheel? It is most likely your saw uses the standard 0000 400 1300 coil used on a lot of Stihl saws. Probably find one on ebay cheap. A picture of the coil wood be good. For your reference if you give me the serial number or first 4 digits of it I can give you a pretty good idea of its age.

Looks like I missed all the fun The missing plating on the first cylinder is usually caused by abrasive dust getting in. Possibly due to; -improper filter maintenance -improper filter i.e. using the winter mesh filter instead of the summer fleece one. -cutting in sandy or fire damaged (i.e. partially burnt wood) conditions. You see that type of wear in cut off saws all the time. The MS240 has open ports, it just looks like they are closed when viewing the cylinder externally. For interest sake the old 020AV (all metal) had closed ports. I am suprised no one used the spark plug as a guide to estimate the bore The second cylinder looks like the plating is flaking off instead of being rubbed off, as was the case with the first cylinder. Considering the rest of the cylinder doesn't appear too bad, it might actually have been caused by a flaw in the plating. The plating may not have been adhered to the aluminium very well in that area of the cylinder. Heat is usually the reason it eventually flakes off though. If the plating continues to flake and reaches the exhaust port it will exacerbate the problem, due to the nature of the ring travel. Would like to see a picture of the piston (in the area that matches the damage to the piston.

Unfortunately I don't think there are. However, it might not be too long before there is though. Meteor have started making piston and cylinder kits as opposed to just pistons. Currently they do not offer the p+c kit for 200T, just the replacement piston.

The manufacturer will likely be untraceable. Possibly Golf but their boxes usually say "Golf" on them. Might even be Gardenhirespares labelling/repackaging system? Gilardoni and Tecomec are quality aftermarket replacements, they have been OEM before for Husky. Make sure you check out the "G.M" cylinder for any casting flaws/missing plating etc that may be detrimental to performance and check the piston circlip groves aren't too deep. You might also want to see if you can re-use the piston wrist pin as aftermarket ones are usually a lot heavier than OEM. Agree with Spud about pressure/vac testing the crankcase before removal of the original piston and cylinder and after installation of new set is best. While you have it torn down be sure to check the crank turns over nicely without any tight spots and also check the big end bearing for any up or down play (very bad) or excessive side to side play (about 1mm is OK). New fuel lines should be installed also just to be safe.

MS250; -as usual the recoil starter badge is wrong both "Stihl" and "MS250" should be bigger. -no carb adjustment markings/standard settings. -master control lever markings should be black. -no "Stihl" label on sprocket cover. -the handle is not an Elastostart one in which case it shouldn't have a cap. If it was a genuine Elastostart handle the orange cap should say "Stihl Elastostart" in black on it. -there shouldn't be a fixing screw above the av mount near the carb adjustment holes, also the fixing screws should be Torx T27 not allen head. etc.

I am a Stihl man and know very little about Dolmar, but anyway. I believe you can change the studs such that it will take the D009 mount. If you remove the guide plate you should see there are two "additional" holes, this is where the other studs would go. However, in order to make the change you would need to also replace the guide plate and sprocket cover. More importantly though, I don't think you can get the required parts in Europe, if you look in the IPL the parts required to make it D009 are listed as USA, CDN, AUS.... Where i think it is standard. It might be possible to modify what you already have though? Do you have any 3001 or 3002 mount (both 14mm) Stihl bars you could try to see if the oil hole lines up? What about the one in your avatar?

An MS380 for you this time; The biggest "tell" with most of the fakes of this model is that all MS380 saws have the Elastostart as standard. Not on this saw... Also there is no felling "sight" on the recoil cover. The pictures aren't the best at picking out some smaller details. However, this time they went too far with the ® symbols. Pretty sure there is not supposed to be one on the sprocket cover. Also the writing on the sprocket cover appears to be stamped/painted flush as opposed to the real deal which is raised out. In addition the plastics are a little "off" and so is the recoil badge.

[quote=Big J;510785 Why did they make the damn thing heavier for the same power? The MS362 uses stratified scavenging (Stihl 2-MIX engine). Which inevitably makes it heavier. Strato vs non-Strato weights MS441 > MS440 MS362 > MS361 MS261 > MS260 MS201T > MS200T

The only differences between the 070 and 090 are; -the clutch assembly -the recoil starter -the cylinder and piston -nameplates All of which are interchangeable with each model.

I bet that saw has seen some work Your saw is a lot older version than the one in question and by the looks has had quite a few of the bolts replaced (still a very nice saw though). Yours would be before 1981. The clone is a copy of a post 1996 saw (with plastic nameplates etc). So you can't compare the nameplates. Did you cut the clutch cover and outer felling dog away for better chip clearance? or did it break? You should still be able to buy replacements from Stihl.