Megatron

So I presume you used an OEM piston? Aftermarket ones are available but the rumour is they don't contain the steel heat disc that the OEM ones do and under heavy use you may burn a hole through the top of the piston! If the saw is a 2007 model it would use the 1124 030 2007 piston which Mister Solutions have at £78.99 excl VAT (£94.79 incl). If the saw was a 2009 or newer model it would use the 1124 030 2002 piston which Mister Solutions have at £92.95 excl VAT (£111.54 incl).

No. You can get a metal inner spike that will fit, part number 1123 664 0501. Looks like; STIHL LARGE BUMPER DOG SPIKE 021 023 025 MS210 MS230 MS250 A33 | eBay Or you can get a "straight" one part number 1123 664 0500. Looks like; http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STIHL-1123-Bumper-Spike-021-023-025-MS-210-250-180-/260402659279?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ca1353fcf You need two of part number 9075 478 4115 (Pan head self tapping screw) to fix it on. The holes are predrilled in the engine housing on your saw but not tapped. You don't need to tap the holes, just screw in the screws ensuring they are square. Unfortunatley, there is not an outside spike available as such. Mainly due to the fact the sprocket cover is plastic and has no accomodation for a felling spike. If you want a matching set it would be best to make up a set yourself using the Husqvarna principle of securing the outer spike via the bar mounting studs. Also if you don't like the front chain adjustment you can make your MS170 side chain adjustable instead, to be like the MS171, MS250 etc. Part number 1123 007 1000 contains all you need.

Back to the MS240. The most sensible (IMO) would be kit 1135 650 7750. It includes both the inner and outer spike along with the roller chain catcher and fixings. e.g. STIHL MS361 DUAL BUMPER SPIKE/CHAIN CATCHER KIT | eBay It is recommended by Stihl to fit the MS361 but I am pretty sure it should bolt straight on the MS240. Remember IPLs only give Stihl's recommended replacement parts not which parts actually work/can be used on other models. You would be looking at about £10 excl VAT. The only issue I believe you may encouter is the roller on the chain catcher may need to be trimmed to be slightly shorter.

For a Stihl 046/MS460: Inner spike 1122 664 0506 Outer spike 1128 664 0501 Hexagon head screw (M5x12) 9008 319 0960 (you need two of these) Lock nut (M5) 9214 320 0700 (you need two of these) Roller chain catcher 1122 650 7700

Yes. You can get a set of dual spikes from Stihl that will fit. Essentially there are three sizes; -outer dog similar in size to the inner you already have. -"Standard" dual dogs used on MS440 etc -"Oversized" dual dogs used on MS660-Magnum Do you want the roller chain catcher?

All 046 and MS460 saws either have a decomp or the plug fitted. Initially the 046 was rated at 4.1KW (5.6hp), Stihl changed the piston and cylinder at the end of the year 2000 which resulted in the 046 being uprated to 4.4KW (6.0hp). 046 was rebadged the MS460 at the beginning of 2001, with flippy caps etc. but the same P+C which gave 4.4KW.

I use pure white spirit (mineral spirits) for carbs. Clean the carb by hand with rag etc first though. Depending how dirty the solution is after being in the USC I either re-use it on other carbs or on dirtier parts. Also after a few cycles allow the solution to cool. Even if your USC isn't heated the ultrasonic vibrations heat it up and you don't want a fire!

Definitely worth checking. If the key has sheared the timing will be out, you will still get a spark just not at the right time in relation to TDC.

A 009 electronic which I completely tore apart for parts. The only thing I am personally after is the Universal ignition chip. Which can be used on a number of saws, most notably on some of the 020, 051, 075, 076 and 084 saws.

First up, Poulan leaf blower which someone bought at a yard sale as allegedly "working". Well the fuel line has more holes than the Titanic and the fuel is ancient. Flush the tank, new hose, carb through the ultrasonic cleaner and job done. Next up a 070 of mine which needed the sprocket changing. I found the clutch shoes had lost all their linings, so new clutch shoes and springs also. I have heard of people using the 070/090 saws with the clutches missing their linings, however, in big wood the clutch will not be able to adequately transfer the torque from the engine to the clutch drum, IMO.

Like you have found out, the two different specs/settings are for two different carbs. H=1, L=1 is the standard setting for the Walbro WT-215 and WT-286A carbs which do not have a limiter capped H screw. These stopped being used in 2003. H=3/4 (counter-clockwise as far as stop), L=1 refers to carbs with a limiter capped H screw and is the standard setting with the H screw limiter cap in place. The standard setting with the limiter cap removed is lightly seat both screws and then open the high speed screw 1 and 1/2 turns and the low speed one full turn. A new limiter cap should be installed afterward. (Also, i have seen a carb for this series where the actual stop pin had to be removed as the limiter cap was actually metal and part of the H speed screw.) The purpose of the limiter cap is to stop people richening up their saws and thus polluting more.

Does the saw even fire? Is the plug wet? Do you have another known good carb off a different saw you could try? Sounds like the inlet needle is not seating/sealing properly.

They are designed for repetitive bucking. Harder to get pinched/bind up. http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/109002.htm

Stihl 090 or 090G? Homelite 990-D or 990-G? Remington Super 990?

You are most likely referring to Oregon Multicut chain. You still have to sharpen it, can be done with file but a grinder is recommended. Type 90 is 3/8"P pitch and 0.043" gauge which I am not aware Multicut chain is available in? You can get type 91 3/8"P pitch 0.050" gauge, which is M91VX.

Looks like you have it sorted now. For reference you would be looking at £25 excl VAT (£30 incl). There are two versions; 1129 140 0602 Which has no spark arrestor. 1129 160 0601 Which is the USA,CDN and AUS version, with spark arrestor. You would probably be able to get it cheaper in the US though. The 088/MS880 muffler is the rip off. £140 excl VAT!!!

Spud, have you tried this?

Are they genuine bolts? Have you installed a new muffler gasket? What about the bolt holding the muffler to the case and are the threads still in good order in the cylinder?

It depends on the manufacturer and type of bar. E.g. Stihl Rollomatic ES -->108 Stihl Duromatic --> 104 Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip --> 104 etc...

What got smashed and how bad was it? Check the AV mounts first.

As I said before, measure across the tie straps at the middle and also towards the rivets (should find it is the same). This measurement would include the 3 pieces of metal you say are the same gauge and the clearance between them. Hence, if the measurement is less than 3X the gauge you can conclude that the tie straps are not the same as the drive link... I only use 1.6mm gauge 3/8" and 404" pitch chain. Does anyone have any 1.5mm or 1.3 mm standard 3/8" chain i.e. not low profile, narrow kerf etc?

I can't see how you can measure a tie strap on an assembled chain without having to "tilt" the calipers. Counter example; measure the width of the chain across two tie straps, fairly confident it will be less than 3X the chain gauge on a lot of chains. Hence, tie straps not same gauge as drive link. Also worth noting though some drive links are thicker at the top than the bottom and tie strap etc dimensions will vary between manufacturer. Not detailed enough to draw any conclusions but a cool picture anyway. 3/8" PMN on the left to 1/2" on the right;

I don't think so... How are you measuring the tie straps? On an assembled chain or loose replacement tie straps? For example Stihl 0.050" (not narrow kerf or low profile) and 0.063" chain use exactly the same tie straps, left and right hand cutters. The only difference being the drive link. I suspect 0.058" follows the same principal also.

I believe the gearboxes are the same and thus interchangeable, if like you say they are the same gear ratio. Mchines from serial number X 36 360 021 have a gear ratio of 5.6 as opposed to 7.1 before. You should be able to find the serial numbers on the machines. The first number of your serial represents the country of origin and is ignored when comparing to the above number (above it is represented by the X). Provided the two machines are either both before or both after you should be alright.

Use solder. Ensure piston is on "the way up" and near TDC. Put the solder in through the plug hole to one of the 4 "corners" of the cylinder. Turn the engine over slowly. Measure with calipers. Repeat for the other 3 corners. To "tighten" the squish unless doing a pop-up piston you would usually just use a thinner base gasket. Ensure the material you make the gasket out of does not change dimension in time.