Megatron

2012 is the last year that 084 piston and cylinder kits will be available from the factory. So they may still be available here. You would be looking at £300+ excl VAT. Unfortunately putting an 088/MS880 top end on a 084 would likley not be economically feasible. The bolt spacing for the cylinder base is different. The 084 cylinder to muffler fixing is completely different to the one on 088 and MS880 saws before 2009 and I would guess the new MS880 cylinder wouldn't work with the 084 muffler either. Like you mention you would have to modify the top shroud also and likely the chain brake.

Well I'll correct myself on this one. 9523 003 4385 was not used on all 084 saws. Before the end of 1991 part number 9523 003 4380 was used. I believe the difference between these two may be the fact the -4380 has an inner shield? but I am pretty sure they are fully interchangable.

You might not have a lot of fun there... The flywheel side bearing easy, however, the clutch side bearing is proprietary to Stihl. 9523 003 4385 is the part number and was used on all 084 saws and 088 saws up to serial number 1 54 603 854.After this the 088 crankcase had a steel ring integrally cast in the new crankcase half in the area of the clutch side bearing. Hence, 9523 003 4385 was replaced by 9523 003 4386, which has suitably modified play. According to Stihl tech notes; "The new ball bearing may only be installed in the new crankcase. The previous ball bearing remains available for older machines or the previous crankcase without an integrally cast steel ring". Well the older -4385 bearing became NLA last year... The -4386 might fit but I don't know how long it will hold up. Worth a call from your Stihl Dealer to Stihl Technical.

The seller is an idiot then. If you have two people that have shown an interest in an item why wouldn't you try to get as much as possible? In other words give a counter offer. I was willing to go with BIN but thought I would try to get it cheaper first though. I sent the seller a message asking why my offer was declined and never had a response so he will be added to my sh#t list. Glad you have a use for it though.

This wouldn't explain the lack of drive of the chain. The needle bearing is only in operation when at idle or with chain break on.

Your air gap and breaker point gap are within spec. First check the kill wire and the HT lead for grounding to the case. Also check the points for corrosion. Ground the spark plug to your hand, crank the engine. If you feel a series of small shocks then it is probably the condenser that is going bad. You can check the coil with a multimeter; -primary winding, 0.5 to 0.6 Ohms (connect one lead of the multimeter to the wire that goes to the condenser and other to ground) -secondary winding, 6 to 8 Kilohms (connect one lead of multimeter to spark plug terminal and other lead to ground) (I wouldn't worry if you are slightly outside of these numbers as these are for the 070/090 saws but the ignition is very similar) It will most likely be the condensor that is bad. You can check the condenser with a multimeter by charging it with the meter set to your highest resistance and then switching the position of the leads and allowing it to discharge through the volts setting. A good condenser will show unmeasurable resistance after a short while and hold charge. If you have to replace. There may be two versions like the 070/090, do the wires screw to it or are they soldered on. Both versions are still available.

Well thats life. I don't think the piston is aftermarket. If it is, you should ask for money to be knocked off as he gave the part number for the cylinder and piston, as opposed to saying "original cylinder with non-genuine piston". 084 parts will be in high demand. For example all the coils are now no longer available from the Stihl factory. The last one became NLA at the end of last year. Stihl are phasing out 084 parts.

Yes the 084, 088 and MS880 (before 2009) use the same 1124 030 2007 piston. After 2009 the MS880 uses the 1124 030 2002 piston. Do you know if this is compatible also?

To be honest I would leave the squish as it is such that you don't have to worry about the changes in timing. You can always go back to it. Then you will know exactly what the porting has done and how much of an affect the lower squish has. I think you will find there are bigger gains to be had from the increased flow than the increased compression. Remember you want to leave the intake (and transfers) even but rough to promote atomisation whereas you want to smooth out the exhaust.

For anyone that wants to know. The last year the part will be available from the factory; 1124 020 1203 (084 piston and cylinder) is 2012

Did you go with the buy it now? I don't understand this. I saw it this afternoon and noticed that someone else had made him an offer. I offered him £84, hoping to barter a bit. About an hour and a half later the auction ended, allegedly by buy it now. But on my end it says it sold for £84, as it does if you type in the item number. :confused1: My offer was subject to the fact the piston had to be OEM and not aftermarket though.

You are correct. The OP's saw will have this configuration. For interest MS880 saws were modified at the beginning of 2009 such that they now have the more "traditional" screw on type muffler. Stihl have had numerous problems with filters in the past but as of late have got there act together. If you have a green filter on a 066/MS660,088/MS880 etc you should change it to a HD filter which is black or black and silver (HD and HD2). Stihl now factory install HD filters. Also check to ensure that the nut is not bottoming out before you have a good seal. Another good idea is to make yourself a thin rubber gasket to go between the nut and the filter to stop dust getting through there. A properly maintained HD filter should be able to keep out fines. With regards to paper element filters, I don't think you would be dissapointed with the new HD2 filter. BTW a bigger saw has more of a problem with restrictive air filters than smaller ones, due to the increased volume of air that must pass through the same size filter in roughly the same time (if using the same filter). Aftermarket versions of 088/MS880/084 pistons are available (I don't believe the "new" MS880 piston is though). However, I believe OEM pistons for these models have a steel disc at the top of the piston to prevent melting a hole in the crown. I have been told before that aftermarket ones do not have this. Some may do but I wouldn't take the risk if you want a saw you know you can rely on.

Stihl make a part specifically for this purpose. Part number 1123 656 7700. To install remove the black plug out of the front right-hand AV element and insert the chain catcher into the AV element. The chain catcher also has a peg which engages in the hole to the left of the AV element, to stop it from twisting. The part should only be £1 to £2.

Pick the saw up and then hold only the recoil handle, how fast does it fall? If the saw runs well/normal when you get it to start it would suggest to me that it is not a compression related problem. Usually saws with low compression are hard to start and have noticably low power in use. In severe cases they will only run with the choke on. Does the saw race at idle?

Before you do anything remove the muffler and see if the piston is scuffed/scored and then check the compression with a gauge if possible. Clean or replace the fuel tank vent. New fuel hose, fuel pickup, impulse hose, carb manifold, carb kit. It should be vacuum and pressure tested also...

Take off the air filter (top piece) and look down at the choke plate on the carb, put the master control lever on cold start position and see if the choke plate shuts fully. Sometimes the lever which activates the choke plate gets bent resulting in full choke not being achieved. If not you could try a 1/8th turn anti-clockwise on the L-speed screw.

I believe the lifetime warranty was for machines sold from 1986 to 2003 for electronic ignition modules. For machines sold after 1st March 2003 it is 2 years parts and labour, 5 years parts. Obviously you would have to be the original owner and have the necessary paperwork. http://www.stihlusa.com/STIHLInc_LimitedWarranty_10.09.pdf

I meant to post this a while ago. 070 on the left, 090 on the right. Ignore the different badges as that is to do with age rather than anything else. Although, I wouldn't be surprised if some 070s were bought with the 090 starter cover (more likely from dealer as opposed to factory) to make them easier to start?

I saw that. The description says it was re-listed due to a time waster. Here is the original auction; eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace Click on bids. Looks like someone(not me), made up an account and won the item just so they could not pay for it(knowing all along it was fake). Report the listing. Unfortunately, not all fakes are as easy to spot, just a few examples; http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/31389-can-you-spot-fake.html

MS240 and MS260 use the same tank. A 024/026 tank will fit but evidently you will then have the screw cap and worth noting also not all 024/026 tanks are translucent. However, it is not necessarily a straight swap. Depending on the age of the 024/026 tank, the tank vent needs to be taken off and replaced with a hose and grub screw as it prevents the use of the air filter with compensator compatibility which you would require. Again depending on age, some 024/026 saws use a different fuel hose which has a different size grommet, both fuel hoses are readily available just use the right one! Additionally, what carb you have will determine whether you have to drill a third H/L speed adjustment hole if there are only two. The earth/kill wires may have to take a slightly different route also and make sure you use an MS240/MS260 master control lever as some 024/026 levers make it difficult to activate full choke when used with the MS240/MS260 air filter cover. It might sound complicated but it isn't it is just little things some or all of which you may not have to do (depending on age of 024/026 tank).

It can be quite a daunting task if you have never done/seen it done before. It appears I was wrong about not being able to buy half crankcases though, it seems the the newer models allow you to do so which is a plus. Depending how bad the damage is it might be cheaper to find someone who can weld it? Or sell it on ebay and invest in a new saw. Unless you have already bought the parts.

Are we talking about an MS290 or MS280? The 0000 400 1300 coil for the MS290 is used for a lot of the Stihl saws if you have any spare parts saws lying around. The 1133 400 1350 (non-IEM) coil used on the MS280 is specific to the MS280/MS270 saws. Ignition failures on modern units are relatively rare. If you have checked that the kill wire isn't grounding anywhere, the HT lead is in good order, the module and flywheel are free of gunk and the air gap between module and flyheel is within spec then there isn't really anything else you can do apart from get a new module.

How does that make it fake? I have seen several big brand saws advertised with the same faux pas. I expect it is because the saws get shipped to the promotions/advertising department for photoshoots but the employees likely know nothing about how saws operate.

I wouldn't say that handle bar hose is anything out of the ordinary. The non-AV and older AV handles use the same (replacement) 19mm diameter handle hose. The later AV uses 23mm. I have seen many variations depending on age etc. One of my AVs has similar to that on the fake. It is also worth pointing out replacement parts are not necessarily the same as original ones for example the 19mm hose is also the recommended replacement for the MS380 which originally has a more distinctly ribbed hose. Once you get into the saw I am sure there is a lot more than the ignition to give it away. However, this was an exercise in trying to spot a fake without taking the saw apart. I agree that you should be weary of any NOS 070/090. I don't believe either are made anymore though. The 070 was replaced by the MS720 and the 090 I think was discontinued a few years ago. There is a moral difference between non-genuine and fake/counterfeit parts/saws. The saw in question is counterfeit as it was being sold as genuine. Also worth pointing out that the manufacturers of this saw choose to infringe on Stihl's intellectual property in labelling it Stihl so why wouldn't they just copy the Mahle sign also? As for the ignition by better I presume you mean it is electronic. Stihl did infact put some Bosch electronic ignitions in 070/090 saws. I don't know if they were prototypes or if they were 070 saws made in Brazil but they do exist. With regards to being better I can't comment as I don't have an eletronic ignition to compare. However, I know for a fact electronic ignitions often do not fare well when positioned under the flywheel due to the heat. An example would be the 075/early 076 electronic ignition having a high failure rate resulting in Stihl making the trigger plate external instead of under the flywheel. The 070 recoil has a smaller rope rotor and concave fins whereas the 090 has straighter fins. The recoils are interchangeable providing the starter cup matches i.e. friction shoe/pawl.

Is the saw oiling properly at operating RPM? If the casing was cracked the saw should leak all the time as would usually be the case if one of the O-rings/hoses were bad. However, I have seen the spring partially come off the worm gear and bind in clutches before. Causing the saw to oil all the time. Another thought springs to mind, what size stuff are you cutting up? If it isn't that big and your oil pump is turned way up the oil will collect on the inside of the sprocket cover and drip down when the saw is put down...