Megatron

The diesel won't have done any damage it is just acting as a solvent. You can try flushing out with lighter fluid/white spirit etc and also spin the chain sprocket backwards (whilst feeding lighter fluid etc into the bar oil outlet hole). However, it would actually be quicker (for me atleast) to do the following; Check to see if the oil tank vent is blocked. If it isn't, take off the sprocket and check the worm spring is fully engaging in the sprocket. Take off clutch and remove worm and oil pump; -check the worm and oil pump teeth are good -check the sealing ring between the oil oulet and the crankcase and flush the oil outlet channel (which takes oil from pump to the bar). -flush out the oil pump -remove the oil hose and pickup, clean and inspect for cracks etc -before reassembly flush out the tank

Sometime ago I reported someone who was selling convincing fake Husqvarna 365 Special, Stihl MS250 and Stihl MS380 chainsaws. He had sold several thousand pounds worth on ebay and was advertising on donedeal.ie also. I wrote an email to both Stihl and Husqvarna. I never heard anything from Stihl, whereas I got an email from the Head of Intellectual property for Husqvarna. However, the seller is still on ebay (haven't seen any counterfeit saws recently though). At least 3 or 4 people bought a 365 Special from him and to this day only one has realised it is a fake...

Necessary to stress they aren't genuine imports rather counterfeit ones. The only use of a clone I would have thought would be to have some cheap cosmetic spares as I would use any of the "main" parts. A fake 070 in action, anyone who has ever run a real one will know... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjvLCL_rNSo]YouTube - ‪stihl 070 chinese copy‬‏[/ame] A lot of genuine importers who realise they are buying counterfeits paint them so they won't get in trouble with Stihl. Go to 10:00 for this one; [ame] [/ame] From what I have read the carbs are one of the biggest problems; don't supply enough fuel and the H and L screws have little effect.

Check out some of the other points I raised. Does it say "Made in Germany" or "Made in Brazil" on the recoil starter? A picture of your saw to compare would be nice. It isn't real! Nor is the one in the Youtube video. This is just proof of how good the clones are getting. Go to Aliexpress or Alibaba and type in Stihl 070... A serial number wouldn't really prove anything, as they copy everything else so why wouldn't copy that also? However, it is possible the serial number wouldn't tally with some of the saws features e.g. press fitted oil line from machine number X 30 676 407, plastic nameplates from machine number X 33 878 645. Also it wouldn't suprise me if a lot of the clones have the same serial number...

That catalogue is out of date. The MS720 replaced it in the line up in 2009 so the 070 would have probably become NLA some time after that. I suppose it is possible it is still around but I don't see why it would be as the MS 720 is virtually identical. But those who quoted the catalogue, are you saying you think the saw pictured in this thread is real?

A different saw off of Youtube; [ame] [/ame] You tell me...

The 070 is no longer produced anywhere by Stihl AFAIK. It has been replaced by the MS 720 as of the end of 2008/start 2009. I would be interested to know why you think the saw is real or not, regardess of what it actually is. No it isn't. Don't know about any modern Stihl saw being "100% real Stihl" though as many of the components that are used in the German and US factories are made in China. Zama carbs etc Drum roll... The saw is a Chinese clone/fake/counterfeit. There are several 070 counterfeit versions, this is one of the more convincing ones. Every now and then one of these will pop up on ebay or gumtree. Here is some tips on how you can tell; -Often the seller will say it was bought in the 1980s to prevent having to use the word IMPORT which buyers are generally weary of. However, as with all the 070 clones I have seen they have plastic nameplates on recoil and filter housing/engine shroud. Plastcic nameplates were only put on the saw from 1996 onwards. -The plastic nameplate on the filter housing/engine shroud should have the registered trademark symbol after "STIHL", ®. -As is often the case the font is not quite right. The "STIHL" label on the clutch cover should be more itallic and should also have a faint ® after it. -The cylinder appears black. AFAIK the only cylinder supplier used for the 070 was MAHLE, who don't make cylinders that look like that. -The tank gasket shouldn't be black AFAIK. Yellow or Green or Red (which is the replacement tank gasket colour if you buy one now). -The oil tank/engine shroud/recoil starter/rear handle should be attached via slotted head bolts not allen bolts, especially not black ones! -The muffler should be held to the cylinder by studs which are threaded into the cylinder and then silver/gold M6 lock nuts to hold the muffler on. Not the black allen bolts which appear to have been used in this clone. -The kill switch should have a plate under it with two red arrows pointing backwards saying "Stop", instead of the red and black "On" and "Off" markings which appear to have been used above. -The "box" under the the kill switch should look a lot slimmer and have a rubber cylindrical shaped covering for the kill wire. Not something with writing on which looks like an electrical relay. -I deliberately didn't find a picture of the recoil side as it is normally the biggest giveaway. The nameplate on the cones does not even look close to the real thing and doesn't have the place of manufacture written on it like "Made in Germany" etc. -The serial number would also likely be a big giveaway. There are loads of these on Aliexpress, Alibaba etc. e.g. Wholesale Stihl 070 Chain saw with 36" SOLID GUIDE BAR + Free Shipping They make convincing conterfeit copies of the MS250, MS380, MS381 and Husqvarna 365 Special also...

No it isn't mine. These are mine; and yes I painted the 075 blue, just to stand out.

Having seen the discussion in General Chat on the Fake Britain programme (which I haven't seen) I thought this might be a good test. Is this fake? How can you tell?

Since they were released in 2001 they have never been "out of production". To this day they are still sold in Germany. Also due to Stihl USA building up enough credits with the EPA they have recently re-released it in the US also. Fair enough you haven't been able to buy a new one in the UK for a while though.

Post up the serial number or just the first 4 digits if you don't want to post all of it on a public forum.

Should be a small hole on the gear head, you get supplied a locking pin when you buy new. Just use an allen key of the right size, put it into the hole and turn the cutting attachement. You should feel it lock, allowing you to unscrew whatever attachment you have.

The screw-in metal piston stop should only be used (with care) if your sparkplug hole is perpendicular to your piston (old saws). Often clutches need way more leverage, brutality etc than a piston can hold on the surface area that the metal piston stop contacts the piston with, when the piston stop is at an angle... and it will break though the top of the piston. You can use nylon rope. Make sure the piston is on "the way up" and above the exhaust port. Before replacing the clutch take the rope out before spinning the crankshaft (to enable you to lock it the opposite way). With the Stihl spoon shaped piston stops the words "OBEN-TOP" should face upwards. It is also possible to use an impact wrench but you have to remove the flywheel first or you risk shearing the key.

When setting a carb, always set the low speed screw (and idle) first, before the high speed. This is because unless the idle system is dependent on the main jet system alterations in the low speed will affect the mixture at high speed. Idle system indepentent of main jet system; In these carbs the main jet and idle systems are arranged in parallel. Changes in the idle volume mean a change in full load volume. If the idle fuel volume is altered with the low speed screw, it is necessary to readjust the high speed screw.When the idle setting is made leaner, the overall fuel-air mixture becomes leaner too. This increases engine speed as well as the risk of engine damage as a result of overheating. Idle system dependent on main jet system; In these carburetors the idle system branches off the full-load system after the high speed screw. It is not directly connected to the metering diaphragm chamber. Full-load fuel flow is determined by the high speed screw. Adjusting the low speed screw to change the idle fuel volume does not result in a change to the overall fuel volume. In other words always tune L before H, just to be on the safe side. Unfortunately, tachs are not much help in tuning non-stock saws. Especially ported ones, as one of the aims is to move peak power and torque to a higher rpm. So setting with a tach to factory spec is not appropriate. Tachs are no good on rev-limited saws either, as soon as the saw starts bouncing off the rev limiter the tach goes nuts. Best ways of tuning are by ear (if experienced) or "in the wood".

So your MS441 already has the HD filter Your MS660 has the non-HD. I don't know since when but I believe the HD filter (HD2 now) comes factory installed on the MS660 now. The green filter is now listed as the option instead of being installed as standard and is only recommended for use in snowy/wintery conditions as per Stihl.

The old HD filter was installed from factory on the MS441 from mid 2007. So if yours is a 2008 model you should already have the HD. What colour is the filter? Black=HD, Green=Wire mesh/winter operation filter.

Pass your finger nail around the inside of the jug and see if you fell any resistance or your finger nail catches. Never a good idea to leave acid in a cylinder unattended. The acid can get into the ports and that ain't good! Also sometimes the cylinder will be pitted as a result of the seizure (coataing missing in small places) and depending where this occurs the cylinder may still be useable. However, if you leave acid in it for longer than necessary it will get into the "pit" and eat away the Al alloy and undermine the plating around the "pit". Most likely again making the cylinder junk.

I agree chicom/aftermarket pistons and cylinders are getting better... and price vs quality aftermarket would likely come out on top. First one thing to point out (i'm guilty of this too), when the word aftermarket is used in the same sentence as saws people assume lower quality. This is often not true for example much better bearings can be had than OEM. Also the quality of the piston and cylinder of OEM is a lot dependent on what manufacturer the work is outsourced to, if indeed it is. For example Stihl "in house" made cylinders appear to be far inferior to Mahle and Kolbenshmidt (KS) but this may change in time. One of the biggest problems with chicom pistons and cylinders is consistency. Some of the things I have seen/read about (last couple years); -significant casting flaws to intake/exhaust/transfers/combustion chamber (which would affect power) -"finish" in general -pistons with too deep grooves for wrist pin clips, leading to the ears getting busted off (quite common) -relatively huge variations in squish -cylinders with a band of coating missing in the squish band, rings don't usually cross it in a stock saw but won't allow pop up crown on piston. -inconsistent bevelling to ports, causing unnecessary wear to rings and in worse case allowing them to catch... Now on to power; -the casting flaws can often be rectified with a carbide burr but if left will be detrimental to power. -chicom/aftermarket pistons tend to be heavier than OEM, I can only put this down to inferior alloys being used thus requiring more material in high stress areas. -I have never seen a wrist pin on an aftermarket piston with a teapered wrist pin like some OEM do, again unnecessary weight. Weight will affect accelaration and likely peak RPM. -durations, if you can "degree" an aftermarket p+c some are way off OEM. However, some are in fact more aggressively ported and would in theory produce more power but wouldn't meet emissions standards. -Squish as already mentioned -Closed vs open port cylinders It is also worth noting I doubt many aftermarket cylinders do in fact have "Nikasil" as it is trademarked, as I suspect "Alusil" is. Some may have similar to these but I have heard of some using chrome instead, the thickness of all of which can vary. My preference; Mahle-->Kolbenshmidt-->Gilardoni-->Tecomec-->Stihl-->Meteor-->Episan-->Golf-->Unnamed The order of the top three changing depending on the date/model and some not being applicable to all Stihl/Husky saws. Just some food for thought.

OEM 46mm cylinder will produce more power than virtually all aftermarket options, regardless of 46mm or 47mm. Regardless of whether you know how the seizure occured a vacuum test on the crankcase is a must. If it fails the vacuum test use pressure to find the leak. It is possible for oil seals to pass a pressure test but fail under vacuum (which is what they will do in operation on the saw) hence the order of the tests. Granted it is rare but correct proceadure none the less. Also checking of fuel line is a must. I agree carb should also be tuned, which can be done at a shop/dealer but it is best for anyone to learn themself. This is because saws should be tuned for winter/summer conditions and for the altitude in which it is being used. Hydrochloric acid is what most people use but Sodium Hydroxide works also. Wear a face shield, resistant gloves, no short sleeves etc and work in a well ventilated area. It is never recommended to do that because if the hone catches in a port it can chip off the Nikasil/Alusil/Chrome etc coating.

Yes, HD material does restrict more by its very nature. However, HD filters have a larger effective surface area compared to non HD to compensate somewhat. Think flat vs corrugated. I believe I read somewhere about flow tests on the old HD filter and it flowed more than enough for an MS880. Seeing as the same filter is used on other saws it shouldn't be that much of a problem, as long as it is kept clean! Does it have the old style HD? Also MS441s have a better design in which they better separate "clean" and "dirty" air, before it gets to the filter. HD2 is available as spare part. The old HD i suspect will be "available from factory whilst stocks last". The old HD is no longer shown in parts lists. 0000 140 4402

The HD filter is old news now and will be phased out and replaced by the much better HD2 filter on all models that previously had the HD filter. It is made of the same material as the MS261 filter and does not require the use of a prefilter. Depending how old the saw is it quite possibly already has the HD2 filter. The MS441 was the first saw to receive the filter upgrade from the factory, as of the middle of last year.

First make sure the nut isn't bottoming out before the sealing lips have got a good seal. Common problem. If you want to upgrade, get the HD2 filter, part number 0000 140 4402. Made of the same material as the MS261 filter;

1110 890 4500 - 1.5mm pitch, 22mm diameter 1106 890 4501 - 1.5mm pitch, 26mm diameter What part number were you trying to order?

I am assuming you made the two different sizes? 1110 890 4500 (should cost around £5 exc VAT) Fits 020(all metal),024,026,028,034,036,038,044,046,064,066 with aluminium, MS240,MS260,MS340,MS360,MS380,MS381,MS440,MS460,MS640,051,075,076 1106 890 4501 (should cost around £12 exc VAT) Fits 066 poly,08S,088,070,090,090G,MS650,MS660,MS720,MS780,MS880 Looks like you did a good job