muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Love that, wish I could carve like that, as I need one if those tables, maybe that could be my inspiration to buy a carving saw and learn. Dream on I think.
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When I fire up our oven, i reckon a minute would charcoal the first one. Usually end up cooking around 25 pizzas to feed us lot, and the last one takes around 4 mins.
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Not used that brand but used to use similar on demelition. Floorboards etc. Just check out the new way to cut firewood thread before you think about doing anything silly.
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He certainly is a top guy, I struggle to even see the welds on the blades I've had from him.
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Imported kiln dried logs - does anyone actualy buy them?
muttley9050 replied to ash_smith123's topic in Firewood forum
It's important not to think that leaving a pile of brash is good enough habitat, some bugs need to live in deadwood for upwards of 5 years before they mature and different species require differnt types of wood. There May be some wastage, but this is not always the case, and letting some of the nutrients leech back into the soil can't be a bad thing. James -
Hi Steve, I do signs mate, what kinda thing you after, routed letters, hand carved letters or all painted. What kinda wood? Do u have a image in your mind. Trying to get my name out there on that aspect so would send you one out to inspect only to be paid for if your completely satisfied. I only do the carpentry, and my partner does the painting. If you let me know more of what you want I can give you an idea of cost.
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Just remember next time your up a tree, to take your van with you. But on a serious note, wether he accessed the tree from a ladder on not, surely he had a rope with him.
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Will they all go as saw logs or firewood?
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Right, the ailing tree we have is actually a welly, in my ignorance I thought they were the same. got 5 massive ones in our woods, but one is struggling. So my plans of benches etc. For it are maybe not the best? Is the sap wood durable or just the heart? Will upload some pics of the tree at some point for a professional opinion on its condition.
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You got some work to do there mate. Got s massive sequoia that's gunna have to cone down at some point. Just wondering how rot resistant the timber is?
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Sort of mate. We run cob building courses from time to time, and when we have no builds for the courses, we invent something and lay foundations etc, then the course builds it. It's a really cool oven that the kids here named the gruffalo. The oven is a big fire breathing monster head, with a big tail stretching out the side to form a bench, and an arm for a small table the other side. I'll take some pics at some point and show ya. Amazing what you can get built if you run courses. At the mo we have, gruffalo, cob eagle shaped bench. Strawbale porting shed and sheep shed from the straw bale course, and s few other oddities.
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No idea, but I regularly cook pizzas in our wood fired oven, I chuck the usual hardwood mix in and have never had any complaints.
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I forgot about reading that, Will havebto try it one day. I always oil my boards with tung oil as its foodsafe and reasonably water resistant. This takes around 7 or 8 coats. On a commercial level you May want to give just one coat of a good polyurethane varnish although I prefer the finish of oil.
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If your doing it for an experiment then try it out. If it was to fulfill an order, then i would convince the customer to order a product which you can have faith in. Long grain serving boards would be far more stable and a better investment. Other than that you could make butchers blocks and cut them round, but they would be expensive.
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It would take years to season a 10" pole. And your still have a lot of waste at the ends. I think the best bet on multiple boards would be to remove 2" plug from centre and then glue and screw to plywood to stabilise whilst drying then plug hole when dry.
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Thanks mate. I'll let u know how it gos
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Sorry Marty, haven't managed to get over to the forge yet, but I Will soon!
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Thx, I have a number 5 so Will try that, bit concerned about putting a curve in the only blade I got though, have to be careful!
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Personally I find it unavoidable on deep cuts. But 10" maxes my saw out. It was suggested to me to cut slower but only improves things a little. The guy at tuffsaws ( Ian I believe) is very helpful with all things bsndsaw, and it May be worth talking to him. He sells a super tuff fastcut blade, which is ace, cutting very clean thin kerf on seasoned wood. Recommended for veneer etc. I can't recommend his blades and service enough, all superb. I feel your issues can only be blade related. James
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There's plenty if thickness, its about 2" at mo. It is just a lump, both ends are pretty true. Might have to invest in a scrub plane, but my hand planing skills leave a little to be desired. I'm gunna have a go with an electric plane then a block plane later and see how I get on. Any tips?
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Think there's a decent genny engineer comes in here at times, maybe he could help ya with it:p But seriously, is it running 3 phase, what sort of size genny u need to run it? Any chance off a 16amp supply?
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Let's not rub salt into the wound, I'm sure he knows he was foolish!
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That's what I was thinking, but gos against my "perfect" grain. Live in Winslow mate. Ya welcome for a coffee anytime your in the area.
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Didn't realise it was leccy, that ain't as useful. Blaisey, pm sent.
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So its a fascinating derail here. But back to the original question, would you cut the board into 3 for planing or would you get it as flat as poss by hand and forget about the underside?
