Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

muttley9050

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    2,688
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by muttley9050

  1. Sorry Marty, haven't managed to get over to the forge yet, but I Will soon!
  2. Thx, I have a number 5 so Will try that, bit concerned about putting a curve in the only blade I got though, have to be careful!
  3. Personally I find it unavoidable on deep cuts. But 10" maxes my saw out. It was suggested to me to cut slower but only improves things a little. The guy at tuffsaws ( Ian I believe) is very helpful with all things bsndsaw, and it May be worth talking to him. He sells a super tuff fastcut blade, which is ace, cutting very clean thin kerf on seasoned wood. Recommended for veneer etc. I can't recommend his blades and service enough, all superb. I feel your issues can only be blade related. James
  4. There's plenty if thickness, its about 2" at mo. It is just a lump, both ends are pretty true. Might have to invest in a scrub plane, but my hand planing skills leave a little to be desired. I'm gunna have a go with an electric plane then a block plane later and see how I get on. Any tips?
  5. Think there's a decent genny engineer comes in here at times, maybe he could help ya with it:p But seriously, is it running 3 phase, what sort of size genny u need to run it? Any chance off a 16amp supply?
  6. Let's not rub salt into the wound, I'm sure he knows he was foolish!
  7. That's what I was thinking, but gos against my "perfect" grain. Live in Winslow mate. Ya welcome for a coffee anytime your in the area.
  8. Didn't realise it was leccy, that ain't as useful. Blaisey, pm sent.
  9. So its a fascinating derail here. But back to the original question, would you cut the board into 3 for planing or would you get it as flat as poss by hand and forget about the underside?
  10. Firstly cheap hinges with cheap screws are terrible but readily available. I try to buy all my hardware from my local hardware shop called quick Sharp. They are pretty honest about quality and sell huge ranges, avoid DIY sheds as there priced to sell. Working on construction, I do a lot of swinging doors etc and hinges andvlatches are always cheap. I tend to set out these hinges and pilot drill, then take a slightly larger steel Philips screw than the hinge screw supplied. Use power driver to drive in then remove and use screwdriver to fit proper screw. It's important to remember that brass is soft and screws Will snap easily in hard wood no matter what the quality. Another tip is when you have rebated your hinge cover face in masking tape to avoid screwdriver damage. Pilot holes only need to be 1mm smaller than screw, get yourself a drill guide to make this easier to work out.
  11. No mate, there was no bad feelings picked up, its such a shame there isn't more commercial interest in home grown hardwoods, seems we would rather import it like everything else. I however can't get enough if the stuff to mill at the moment. But not working in arb I don't have the same acses to the stuff as you. Id gladly mill some of the stuff that goes to firewood, but think it Will always be a market where firewood is far easier to shift.
  12. Lovely box, what was the problem with the hinges?
  13. A.butchers block is an end grain chopping board. Supposedly better for the knives and the board but a lit more work!!
  14. The models do vary, my belle has no clip and a different stand.
  15. Pm me your email mate and ill send you the catalogue, loads of cool stuff. I'm gunna try and pop down in the am but won't be able to stay long, as its the day of our summer party. Been busy today building a scaffold/canvas stage and erecting a 7m teepee in preperation. Two canvas marquees to go up wed any final touches on sat for a 3pm start. I'm also tempted not to go so I don't get trigger happy with all the lovely arb gear.
  16. If I was you id search the thread "a few chopping boards" by delabodge. There's some photos in it of some ash boards that would be far more achievable at your level, with basic tools.
  17. Butchers block(traditionally beech though ash would be fine) are imo not a begginers project. you have maybe 50 joints you have to get perfect. Everything has to be totally square. But if your confident why not try. Check outthis video, the boards are great, extra complicated butgreat. Ive made a batch of these boards and also straight butchers blocks, and the process is the same. in this video you have two kinds of wood and different sizes, with a normal block process is exactly the same but alls bits same wood and same size. Make an End Grain Butcher Block Cutting Board | The Wood Whisperer James
  18. Ok vertigo, once you've completed a simlple project like the bracket, I would think about surfacing a larger piece of wood, as in your previous post a chopping board is ideal for this as again if it goes slightly wrong it isn't a problem. Only when I had projects like these sorted and more confidence would I start tackling a project with cut joints. A simple one to start with would be mirror or picture frames. Don't complicate things too much to start with.
  19. You would have to get a hammer and chisel out to get to my retaining clip!
  20. I'm don't know for sure, but I reckon the difference usually is one rope:)
  21. I use granberg precision grinder every 3 or 4 sharpens. File inbetween. Grinder also available from rob d. I got a two saw mill and a 1 saw mill, and the sinlge saw 24" gets used much more.
  22. So your blank can only be 6" long, but what's the maximum width?
  23. I use my belle petrop mixer most, easiest way for me to put on stand is to rest mixer on back and handles, put stand in hole and lift handles to raise. I've seen people balance mixer on drum but this looks stupid to me. Always find it starts easier if I wait 2 mins for oil to level before trying. James
  24. Need a 30" bar and chain to get full capacity from 24" mill.
  25. I run my 076 and 051s on 25:1 with no lead replacement. 076 been running like that for 15 years. No problems but is is rarely used

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.