muttley9050

That's me biggest problem, getting hold of stuff to mill. The waste product from my job is brickdust and sawdust and you can't mill them. Roll on house selling so I can buy some woodland. I do have a couple of dead yews to fell, may bring a couple of short lengths of that. Can only get 5ft in me little van though. Seems a bit wrong to cut em so short!

I'd be up for that clive, would have to be after the school hols though bud, can't get a minute to think at the moment! Best you start stashing fire bricks asap.

Yes mate, her birthday is next Tuesday, so you will recieve a call sometime after that. Problem if we both come is sorting the kids out. I suspect a Wednesday would be good for us, then we could possibly ask grandma to collect kids from school.

Are you sure its not hornbeam, certainly looks like one to me:)

Looks nice ed, I've been dabbling a little lately on the lathe, but keeping them gouges sharp is a right pita.

I see what ya saying, I was looking on chainsaw bars, forgot about that site. Will have to make sure when I make one I consider this issue. What's the maximum bar length you have used in you mini mill. I only have a 30" and don't really want to buy a shorter one.

Sellers can only leave positive feed back not negative.

Can't see the picture you refer to, but get where your coming from, my milling saws have no brakes so wouldn't be a problem for me.

I'd also be interested to know your preferred method for reducing the girth of the top of the posts?

Very nice work Eddie, and rather lavish for an oven. We just sat ours on a big log! Must be nice to build a quality piece for yourself for a change. What will you build the oven out of?

I don't own a mini mill, but thinking of making one, I'm struggling to see how cutting with the top if the bar gives you any more length though?

Also damages trees if uses in high quantities.

If you want to reproduce the same sign over and over, which I think is what your getting at? It would be well worth you making a template out of mdf. Take your time with it and get it perfect, cut out letters with a jig and use the dremel to sand them perfect if necessary. You can then use a guide bush to follow your letters if you make them oversize or a guided template router cutter if there exact size. If your clever u can make the template well oversize and use different size bushes and cutters to achieve different size signs. You would then get a perfect sign in a fraction of the time taken freehand. It is also important to make sure you always cut in the right direction. James

I reckon that's about 2 cube there, nowhere near 3. Used yo use a similar truck, and you couldn't get 2 cube of topsoil on it!

Thanks Jeremy, if we were buying saw logs, we would need it milled, and you would be the obvious choice. Like I say the project isn't for immidiate start, so no rush. Maybe you could give me an idea of cost of the saw logs, an idea of how much you think it would cost to mill. I will do a quick calculation later on the number of linear meters of 8" cants we would need. As mentioned in a pm to you earlier, im also after 1 s/c butt for personal uses, maybe there's a possibility you could supply me this. This one would be for alaskan milling myself. Thanks James

Thanks Alec The jobs for the next village over from me, where my folks live. It's a storage shed for the different clubs, pre schools, sports facilities that use the wreck. The village is a strange setup where the village association own almost 100% of the non privately owned areas bar roads / pavements etc. Next to the wreck is a large chunk of woodland which I've been trying to convince them to harvest the cladding from. My bro in law do most of the tree work in public spaces in the village, and it can be hard to convince then to remove even dangerous trees like a large rotten crack willow we removed a couple of weeks back. The intention would be no treating of cladding, hence the prefrence for sweet chestnut, also preferred over oak for its better stability. However no s/c in woodland but they do have oak. Maybe I would be better off trying to buy some butts locally and hire a mill in. Just trying to get prices on different options so I can inform the comitee as best I can. Will read the info in the link you posted. James

Hi all, I need a price on enough feather edge cladding to cover around 120m2. Depending on size of board this would be around 140-150 m2 of board face. Would like sweet chestnut or sequoia but would be happy with larch. It's for a local community project that we will start building in around January time. I wonder if anyone on here would be able to give me a price on this? I was also tempted by oak cladding but thought this may be a little expensive. Any of you clever chaps out there got any knowledge of life expectancy of the different species? Thanks a lot James.

Not arb related, just venting on a job I looked at today, Customer: I need a wall and ceiling plastered in my kitchen, can u come and have a look. Me: no problem. When I get there Customer: just had this new kitchen fitted and the floor retiled last week, what do you think? :confused: What a complete plank. Plus he paid more to have kitchen fitted than I would of charged to re skim whole room and fit kitchen and floor. Might be putting my rate up on this one.

I use a bit of carpet for that, rolls up easy, nice and light and more comfy to lie on than a board.

Isn't wood a lot easier to process when green and dries a lot quicker, so what is the benefit in leaving to season in the round?

That's very true, however I break the rules a lot and fit old stoves for friends etc, but i don't have relevant quals anyway so whoopsie. Always install on cinstructional hearth though. Except my own. Seen as these cases no money changes hands am I in the wrong?

Took kids to the cinema this morning to see epic, ace fantasy film about woodland creatures. Followed by pizza hut for lunch. Topped off by shopping for the other halfs bday pressies.

Get as much cut as you can mate as there ain't no such thing as overseasoned wood. You will be right in years to come. Also think about spraying what you mill with something like borax or boron. I do this as a mater of course and believe many others do. Nothing worse than coming back to your seasoned timber years later to find its woodworm food.. James

Inch thick boards take a year to dry with medium airflow. With good airflow you can get this down to around 6 months, but i would still leave a year. Wouldn't give much allowance for leaving in logs for a while, doesn't make too much difference. Buy yourself a decent moisture meter so you can check boards, and make sure your shed has good airflow. Boards would really be better off stacked in a shady spot outside with a corrugated sheet over the top. James

All depends on the stove and wether a constructional hearth is necessary or not. Uncertified stove = constructional hearth to my understanding. I tend to put one in anyway for customers. In my lounge I have a big slab of slate, 30mm thick straight on floorboards. Won't pass Regs, but been that way for years with no problems. Only problem is if your getting your stove fitted profesionally the installer needs to sign it off, so, that's why I usually go for decent hearth as it can't be wrong. James