muttley9050

Ok, met the lady at a market I was doing where she saw a much smaller burr oak with 3 hooks I was selling. 25mm thick 600mm long. This was advertised at £40. She wanted twice as long and " as rustic as possible" she said she didn't want to pay more than £60. I emailed her some pics of some wood she could have for that money and that bit she could have for bit more. More than 4x as much wood as the one she had seen. Anyway we settled on £80. I was happy with that. The hooks cost me £2 each and I only paid £6 for wood at auction. So expenses around £20 with oil, sand paper etc. And 2.5 hours work ish. The reason I asked what you thought was because I'm questioning I could make another for the same money. So what would that lump of oak cost if I were to go buy it from a shop? I have quite a few bits like this I got from auction, should I charge more, although £80 sounds a lot for a coat hook, its not any old lump of oak.

Couple of pics of a coat hook I was commisioned to make. Oak burr around 1150mm long and six wrought hooks. Think I undersold it though. What do you guys think its worth. Oak is 2" thick.

Two schools of thought on this. Turn green, then let it dry and remount and finish, or dry then turn. Problem with a burr is they are really hard to dry well. Because the grain is in all directions they can distort a lot. Also if you dry them too quick all the eyes can open up. I would seal it right up with paraffin wax and leave it in a cool place, forget about it for two or three years depending on size then turn it. Then post pics. James

This is where I'm cursing for no one buying my house yet! I want a trailered lm1 but unfortunately months away from getting the cash.

Steve, just looked through the pile, there's one at 300mm but it'd more like a group of small burrs and is quite thin. Not sure you have the depth on that one. There's one around 500 that I could make a 400 blank from, but having just removed some of the bark I notice a few worm holes in the SAP wood of this one, so the SAP would have to be removed when turning. Do you have a bandsaw for taking down a bigger burr? If not and you want me to do it id charge you £40 for a 400mm blank or £30 for enough burr for you to make one There not perfectly dried burrs, so you will no doubt have some cracks and fissures in the finished piece. Let me know asap as I'm leaving on Friday, and would need to get it sorted by then. James

I've got 3 051av's. I'd be interested at putting into stock, especially the clutch cover. Not sure what to offer though as I don't need em right now. How about you give me an idea of what you want for lot delivered to mk18 area?

Think you mixed this thread up with the show us your arb girls thread!

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That's disgraceful. Watching that video I have lost faith in the brigade. On what grounds are they hacking a tree with a demolition axe, making complete tits of themselves, whilst on the job. And all this time they had the traffic stopped. I'm at a loss. If you guys are walking down the road later and see a fire, don't bother phoning 999, just try and deal with it yourself with a bottle of evian.

Genius bud.

It's really very simple, as said dig a pit light fire. Two stakes with flutes on top banged into ground either end. Put pole through pig mouth and out other end. Put three pins through pig the other direction and jubilee clip to pole, to stop pig spinning. Place pole/pig on flutes. Fix steering wheel to end of pole and happy turning for next 8-10 hours. This can be mechanized in many different ways. When I do it, I like to pull up a chair, couple of beers, and use as exuse to sit an chill. Just keep turning very slowly. Our kit is slightly more sophisticated than the one described, but only on steering wheel end. Make sure pig is well pinned or it won't turn around.

We sell fire bowls that size for £50, and they ain't shipped all the way from India!

Larch will be easier to mill than cherry. Imo the hardest wood to mill is burr elm as you can't get hold of any. James

"Inspiring sustainable garden products" Wonder how sustainable it is shipping single logs up and down the country.

Burrell may have a point, im thinking of getting a 660 and would then need new rails. Only thing I don't know is if at adversley affects balance etc running a 36 " mill on a 20" bar? What would be recommended as biggest bar size milling on a 660?

Or could it be milliliters?

Looks like your getting better bud.

No problem mate, we will arrange this work evening soon + ill be seeing you at parks trust do next month. Sure we can have a play with it then if we got some logs there.

Looks well. The only mod I'd make is to add additional piece of timber on the cross pieces supporting the logs, so you didn't cut into the rails too bad.

You'd be surprised johnny. Dead 3 years = soaking wet in the middle. Especially that size. But beech does dry pretty quick.

I've got two deadens waiting for the autumn to drop and mill, can't wait to see what is revealed.

I love working with beech, but I'm lead to believe its not that easy to sell when milled. Would make some awesome table tops if you could find a way to mill full width, but that's unlikely. As for value, its worth what you can get for it. It's likely to cost around 250-300 to get it milled by a swing mill. And your probably looking at about 3000-4000 of timber if you can sell it at good money. Worth a lot more than that at woodyard prices. But like I say beech is hard to shift. BTW these prices can only be achieved when fully seasoned or kilned.

We do a lot of scythe work round are holding. Takes a bit of getting used to but just as quick as a strimmer. More importantly no ppe no horrible noise and no burning oil.

No worries bud, got smaller too, just thought you wanted big.

Why would the best option be export?