timbermillers

I have a woodmizer and an alaskan/minimill if you're interested in having a chat. I'm only about 15 miles away. PM sent

Most of us fill up our tool boxes with those "special tools" that we've created to overcome certain problems. So apart from all the usual spanners, files, etc, I was interested if anyone has particular tools for a job. My latest addition has been an aerosol can of air for blowing out air filters and all the other places that get clogged up during a days milling/chainsawing. That and a hyperdermic needle and a trimmed down paint brush I find very useful for keeping things clean. Any input welcome!

Yep, guess which one I'm going for?!

Have a look at the Woodmizer website, they've got a secondhand page with a couple of petrol LT15's. Link below Wood-Mizer - mobile sawmills, stationary sawmills, blades, bandsaw blades

My LT40 will be up for sale. As soon as I take some photos it will be on the classified's on here. It's an LT40 fully hydraulic, mobile mill in good working order. PM me if you're interested!

I get all my Douglas Fir from Canopy Land Use, might be a bit far from you as it's in South West England. Very good quality logs. Round Timber for Sale - Canopy Land Use

Yes would be interested in how much, how big and where it is. Sadly transport plays a bit part these days!

PM sent

Thanks for the replies. Seasoned boards are a possibility, how much and where?

I have recently been asked if I know of any English walnut that's available so thought a quick post on here was worth a shot. I'm based in Dorset but for the right log at the right price can travel. Any leads would be much appriciated.

Hi Oli I too have a Sauno kiln, a great bit of kit especially when starting out. I have kilned various species with varying result, but I do keep the species separate if at all possible; especially when it comes to the likes of oak v douglas fir (oak a nightmare and douglas fir bomb-proof!). Ash and beech have worked well together as they both dry at roughly the same rate so if you can match your timbers to the rate at which they dry then all the better. I put some freshly milled oak that had been felled for 2 years through the Sauno and it was a disaster - massive amount of honeycombing on thick sections. In my opinion the problem with the Sauno steam cycle on oak is that it gets too hot and the timber case hardens and then all the problems start. Did the same on 3" douglas and it came out perfectly. I have since dried thick oak in the sauno but I don't steam it first; as a rule of thumb case hardening can occur above 40C so I keep it below this. Everyone has there own little tricks ads a result of their own failures/sucesses. As you say, trial and error is the way forward - good luck!

I've just bought some for £75 m3 +VAT, 6.2m length ranging from 40-60cm diameter. Had to be clean as it's going for windows.

Just a quick word about the milling which is much more my domain. I agree with all of the above but would add, do not under estimate this task! Milling timber is not about just slicing a tree up; the way you cut the timber will save you a lot of problems further down the line. Quarter-sawn boards will save you a load of wastage in the drying process and avoid cupping, shakes and all the other issues that arise during drying. Using juvenile oak trees will result in a low yield and can carry a lot of tension resulting in bent boards. Drying the timber is also needs some thought. Some great posts on here about both air and kiln drying. If you are using the timber for a kitchen you will have to kiln it or bring it inside to finally dry down to circa 9%. I would have a play at milling before you launch into design as this will give you an indication of what you can achieve. If you need anymore info on quarter sawing and/or drying let me know. Good luck! Good luck!

I charge the customer £10 a time for "foreign object strike"; makes nails a bit more interesting!