timbermillers

I have a woodmizer and an alaskan/minimill if you're interested in having a chat. I'm only about 15 miles away. PM sent

Most of us fill up our tool boxes with those "special tools" that we've created to overcome certain problems. So apart from all the usual spanners, files, etc, I was interested if anyone has particular tools for a job. My latest addition has been an aerosol can of air for blowing out air filters and all the other places that get clogged up during a days milling/chainsawing. That and a hyperdermic needle and a trimmed down paint brush I find very useful for keeping things clean. Any input welcome!

Yep, guess which one I'm going for?!

Have a look at the Woodmizer website, they've got a secondhand page with a couple of petrol LT15's. Link below Wood-Mizer - mobile sawmills, stationary sawmills, blades, bandsaw blades

My LT40 will be up for sale. As soon as I take some photos it will be on the classified's on here. It's an LT40 fully hydraulic, mobile mill in good working order. PM me if you're interested!

I get all my Douglas Fir from Canopy Land Use, might be a bit far from you as it's in South West England. Very good quality logs. Round Timber for Sale - Canopy Land Use

Yes would be interested in how much, how big and where it is. Sadly transport plays a bit part these days!

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Thanks for the replies. Seasoned boards are a possibility, how much and where?

I have recently been asked if I know of any English walnut that's available so thought a quick post on here was worth a shot. I'm based in Dorset but for the right log at the right price can travel. Any leads would be much appriciated.

Hi Oli I too have a Sauno kiln, a great bit of kit especially when starting out. I have kilned various species with varying result, but I do keep the species separate if at all possible; especially when it comes to the likes of oak v douglas fir (oak a nightmare and douglas fir bomb-proof!). Ash and beech have worked well together as they both dry at roughly the same rate so if you can match your timbers to the rate at which they dry then all the better. I put some freshly milled oak that had been felled for 2 years through the Sauno and it was a disaster - massive amount of honeycombing on thick sections. In my opinion the problem with the Sauno steam cycle on oak is that it gets too hot and the timber case hardens and then all the problems start. Did the same on 3" douglas and it came out perfectly. I have since dried thick oak in the sauno but I don't steam it first; as a rule of thumb case hardening can occur above 40C so I keep it below this. Everyone has there own little tricks ads a result of their own failures/sucesses. As you say, trial and error is the way forward - good luck!

I've just bought some for £75 m3 +VAT, 6.2m length ranging from 40-60cm diameter. Had to be clean as it's going for windows.

Just a quick word about the milling which is much more my domain. I agree with all of the above but would add, do not under estimate this task! Milling timber is not about just slicing a tree up; the way you cut the timber will save you a lot of problems further down the line. Quarter-sawn boards will save you a load of wastage in the drying process and avoid cupping, shakes and all the other issues that arise during drying. Using juvenile oak trees will result in a low yield and can carry a lot of tension resulting in bent boards. Drying the timber is also needs some thought. Some great posts on here about both air and kiln drying. If you are using the timber for a kitchen you will have to kiln it or bring it inside to finally dry down to circa 9%. I would have a play at milling before you launch into design as this will give you an indication of what you can achieve. If you need anymore info on quarter sawing and/or drying let me know. Good luck! Good luck!

I charge the customer £10 a time for "foreign object strike"; makes nails a bit more interesting!

I have some light rippled walnut in 2" boards; maximum width 22" running down to about 16" cut through and through. It has been seasoned for about 2 years. From memory there is about 10 boards, 4 or 5 of which will be quarter-sawn.

I've dried douglas before with no problems; and found it a lot easier than hardwoods especially in a dehumidifier style kiln. No problems with case hardening, surface checking, end split and all the other things you'll know about! I just use all the hardwood techniques that I've picked up over the years. The only issue is the knots, normal problems with splits around them and they have a tenancy to pull out when planing; this can be overcome by taking 1mm at a time off with very sharp blades, it goes like iron when it's really dry due to the sap content. I looked into carcassing timber for interior use and couldn't get anywhere near it so didn't bother. All the dry douglas I have for interior use is used for staircases when wider boards are needed than the average sawmill stock and just cut and dry to order. One other tip for handling green douglas (or any sappy softwood) if you get covered in sap, which you will, use a bit of WD40 or similar to get it off then clean your hands with a normal hand clearer - works a treat! PS I'm no expert on this but have a little experience! Good luck!

Thats great, back to a time when Health and Safety was all about natural selection! Would like a rummage around that yard!

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Leave it to nature!

With a decent winch and a good cant hook you can move most things. I work on my own and with basic equipment I can dice up and move most things, nothing has stop me yet! I have a skid steer loader for the yard but when milling on site I take a winch (manual Sherpa style), cant hook, skids for the trailer and as many slings and straps as I can muster. It's hard work but it can be done. Good luck.

Looking to answer the same question, try this! http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/firewood-forum/28360-conversion-volumes.html

Does anyone have or know of any sweet chestnut that could be used for milling? I'm looking for a smallish (100 hp ft) quantity in the South West. Needs to be a decent size but the bigger the better. Any help much appriciated!

Just wondered if there was any updates on this?!

Have a look at this website: Used Sawmilling Machinery Mizer Dave (as we call him!) is very helpful

Big Stihl (880) with an Alaskan 48 and small husky is the way I work!