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I've had the 090 out today, on the big bar (just about to stick up a picture on the milling a big oak thread). I've never smoked, but for some reason I always feel that a pipe would be a key fashion accessory when I'm running it! Alec

Just how old is it? Going right back, MacCulloch were one of the pro manufacturers but they dropped out of this '70s/'80s. If it's big, heavy (all metal casing) and slow then it's an old school pro saw. If it's small, light and plasticky it's a modern homeowner saw, but I would say still a step up from a B&Q special. Alec

Hi Wayne, Cannon is a possible, but if the first C could be an O then Oregon is a possible. Something like this:

Inbox now sorted - will see what can be done. Alec

I have a couple running - one in my later 044, one in my 066. No issues with either and I've worked both fairly hard for milling. There appear to have been more issues with variability, and with rings. Variability is immediately obvious - I would buy from one of the UK suppliers as they take them back if not fit for purpose. Rings - you should be able to fit genuine for not much extra cost, and still under the total cost of the replacement piston. Have you looked on Meteor's website - that would be a better level of quality if they still do them. Alec

Ebony, a.k.a. The Nog:

You can buy new from L&S Engineers. Ebay is the best place for pattern parts (reasonable number available and much cheaper). I've got a reasonable selection of secondhand parts if you want to drop me a PM with a list. Alec

Real Steel in Uxbridge - 01895 440505. Put it in the post the same day, arrived next day. £6.08 inc. 1st class postage. It's also handy for gumming up things that wobble a bit and shouldn't, but one day you might need to get apart and is the recommended method for holding the rod on the wind vane rev limiter on the 070 and 090 in place, and coincidentally also now stops my choke rod top end connector from shifting slightly on the shaft. It's quite gloopy - if you need to thin it a bit, use meths. Alec

There are others who know it far better than I do and can suggest specific things to see, but I used to go quite often with my parents as a child (and have been back since, although probably not for 10yrs). My overriding memory isn't so much of specific things, but of a meandering walk from glasshouse to glasshouse, taking in the things in between. I really enjoy the contrast of the atmosphere in the various glasshouses, particularly the oppressive tropical heat and humidity upstairs, with the outside temperature. If you're going by train, it's worth figuring out in advance where the side gate is, rather than the main gate, as it's a bit closer and normally had less of a queue (assuming it's still there even!) Alec

Sadly it doesn't quite work like that. You can't get enough compressive force in the spaces between the bolts to hold a seal and the surfaces are never quite good enough - hence the sealant. A quick trip to Halfords or similar may be in order before your next reassembly job. If the surfaces are really bad, or you just want to go really old school, Permaflex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound is the stuff. Almost indestructible and will hold even the worst of leaks. Not the easiest stuff to get hold of but can be had for £2.50 a bottle from a very helpful UK supplier who will post it. If you do go this route, and ever need to get it apart again, remember it dissolves in meths which is much easier than trying to break the seal. Alec

I have taught my wife to recognise oak trees, but that's about her limit. When I was collecting up the timber for the boats I needed various oak bends - she got somewhat fed up with us taking the back roads to look for standing dead oaks in the fields to either side of the road. Managed to find enough to do it that way though, so it worked! Alec

Some saws, notably the 050,051,075 and 076 have the oil tank integral to the crank case, the tank also effectively being in two halves, separated by the crank case gasket. On these, the crank case gasket breaking down can cause a leak between the oil tank and the crank case, which when it gets bad leads to hydraulicing and major failure. I don't know the 056 well enough to know if it has the same design. However, pool of oil sounds far more like an oil pump issue than a leaking crank case gasket, and I agree with Rich entirely on the testing. Alec

Training and qualifications are an interesting field. In my professional field I am highly qualified, through formal, accredited training. I hire people who are similarly qualified, and arrange a lot of training for my staff to bring them up to a certain level. However, in anything relevant to this forum I have no formal qualifications. I read a lot, absorb as much as I can in the areas of interest to me and once I know enough theory I try to watch what others do (those who I know to be 'good' at what they are doing). From this I improve my ability. I have some areas where I would say I know a reasonable amount. Others where I am better on theory than practice, and some which are complete black holes (fungi being one of the latter). As per a couple of posts on Page 7, I entirely agree that one of the most important things is to know and understand areas of limitation, and to de-risk what you do by doing so. For example, I'm reasonably precise at felling, and have no concerns over size. In the woods I'll take on something with a +/-5deg radius to fell into, take my time over it (not being paid so time isn't an issue) but in a garden I wouldn't touch it - I don't have to and the risk is too high, and I can't climb to dismantle, so I leave it for someone else and maybe get the butt for milling later (which is all I'm interested in in the first place) Alec

I didn't know that either - I'll have to keep an eye out for some and see if UK-grown material works as well. The Archer's Craft by A.E.Hodgkin has a good section on making arrows. Alec

Yes - spotted the nails. I had naively assumed that 20' up a parkland grown tree I should be fairly safe from metal, but oh no... I'll take a prybar with me next time. I might have a go on Friday, but only if the weather has improved somewhat. Working with the jack kept me warm, but I suspect I'll be standing still for a while on each cut. Alec

In December, Luke Quenby posted about a very large oak which he'd taken down: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/51851-any-takers.html The bottom section is going for an enormous chainsaw sculpture, but the top section was available and I'm having a go at it. The approach should be an interesting contrast to Rob D's 6' oak thread here: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/55874-chainsaw-milling-big-oak-6ft-diameter.html I was going to put it off today due to the weather, but I had to go past anyway and thought I might as well start moving it in preparation. The plan was to work until I got cold and wet and then go home, but in practice I didn't get too cold or wet and carried on until it was set up ready for milling. It's too big to fit in an Alaskan, so it will have to be cut freehand. I'd prefer to do this vertically as it's easier to follow the line down the side. This meant rolling it over sideways 180degrees to get it clear of the lower section and then standing it on end. All moving was done by me, by hand, using the jack on the left in picture 2. Photos show it part way up, and then the last one shows it standing on end (light was fading a bit and the blizzard didn't help!). The saw in the pictures is an 066 with a 36" bar on, for scale (yes I did move it before I lifted the log up!). The top end shown in picture 3 is 12' across side to side. Being the top I expect it to be quite gnarly, with some interesting grain. Alec

You could try sending Slackbladder a PM - he was looking for interesting burrs a while ago. No idea how you'd sort the transport though as the price of sticking it on a pallet would probably make it non-viable. Alec

Copper chrome arsenate (CCA) treatment was withdrawn in Europe in 2002. That's not to say some of the current preservatives aren't unhealthy when burned, but at least noone else will have to suffer overnight handlebar moustache growth! Alec

A decent list there. Sadly no plum/blackthorn What size are the walnut and cherry? Alec

That's a fair old mill but this lump still wouldn't fit - it's 7' across! Alec

All things being equal I'll be doing something similar sized this weekend, and I do intend to stand it on end if I can. The down side if you're using a mill is that gravity won't keep the mill on the log, but in my case it's too big for a mill anyway so will be freehanding. I hope to get some pics for comparison. Alec

I've always done this with a spirit level. Mill top and bottom, then rotate the log and wedge it so the sides are vertical. That way I only have to set the slabbing rail horizontal, rather than trying to measure anything on the log end (which is often not square). Alec

You both appear to have forgotten the 090AV:001_smile: Alec

A fair old lump that. Roughly how long did the cut take? Also interested in what sort of thickness you're planning to take boards off at? Alec

The easiest way to do it with a router and jig is to buy a cutter which has a bearing below it of the same diameter - they're called self guided trimmers. You set the plunge depth so that the bearing runs against the side of the jig, which is clamped on the piece of wood (on the underside). My experience is that a cheap router is OK, but buy decent cutters (I use Trend and their Craftsman range has always been fine). If I was doing this, I would take a scrap of wood probably 0.5" ply, about 2" wider than the slat, and about 8" long, so that the back end was well away from the working area and I could stick a clamp on it without it getting in the way of the router. I would then screw a 1" strip down each side, so that it slotted over a slat. On the other side I would draw out the curve and cut it to shape. Jig made. In use, I would put it on the underside of the slat, slide the slat so the top of the curve just touched the top of the slat and then clamp it down at the back end, using a quick release clamp. I could then run the cut in against the jig where it overhangs, right round, and out the other side onto the jig overhang. I reckon making the jig would take about half an hour, including hunting around for some screws, and in use I could make a slat in under a minute, identical every time with no post-finishing. A router cutter is more expensive than a bandsaw blade, but they don't snap. Just a thought Alec