Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

agg221

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    3,962
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by agg221

  1. I like those - inspires me to try something similar Alec
  2. Tricky subject. If the building in which it is to be fitted survives in anything like original form then it will be listed. This means listed building consent is needed for alterations/replacements and this specifies materials. Current thinking discourages the use of 'period' materials as it makes the building history harder to read, and can encourage stripping out old buildings for their parts. It's slightly contentious, as 'recycling' was always practiced, eg of exterior timbers into internal walls, and continues to be acceptable to a limited extent under English Heritage guidelines. Alec
  3. I can do it, and I'm fairly local, but I'm presuming 8-9" square rather than feet......! Alec
  4. It normally would be insured, since it wouldn't be for hire or reward, under his household contents insurance. It's surprising just how much you are covered for under this - usually about £3M of public liability. Alec
  5. Sorry, should amend this for clarity - just to point out that the Oregon Powermatch with the roller nose is the really old style (1970s?) which somewhat dates my kit . The current Powermatch has a sprocket, so it does matter which one you buy and the 395 is the easiest to specify if you need 3/8". Should also mention that the bar should fit the mounts, but since it isn't listed for this saw there is a possibility that you may have to add an extra oiling hole. Alec
  6. No problem:001_smile: if you buy a roller-nose Oregon Powermatch then obviously it doesn't matter that you are using 3/8". If you want a sprocket-nose bar then it makes life slightly easier if you call it a 394 or 395 as they have the same mounts but 3/8" is standard. Alec
  7. A quick bit of digging suggests that the dcs9010 has the same bar mount as the large Husqvarnas, so if you order a bar for a 3120 it should fit fine. At 90cc I would expect it to pull a 36" bar with no problems (very similar size to the Stihl 064), which will give you 28" on the mill, or the full 30" if you take the dogs off. Hope this helps! Alec
  8. Before we had the children I used to do a lot of canal restoration at weekends and it's the favoured method of lining where the canal has leakage problems. The level is pretty stable there, but it seems to be very durable. The Wendover arm of the Grand Union is the site I'm most familiar with it being used on. Some good pictures here: Restoration2 but there are a lot more across the whole website. Alec
  9. If he can that would be brilliant - I'll drop you a PM! Alec
  10. Thomas Flinn & Co. Saw Screws & Caps They do a range of sizes - you have to ring and ask. Alec
  11. Perfect then, and they can even read the original of the website! Ton who owns the company is really helpful to deal with. Alec
  12. Stihl fuel tanks can be welded, but it's not ABS, it's Nylon (Polyamide) with 8% glass fibre filling for the white part - if it's the transluscent part at the front where you can see the fuel level I'm not sure of the composition as I don't have any saws that new! This means that ABS and similar are not compatible with it. It also means that you need to get a lot hotter (360degC welding temperature) and Nylon picks up water, which you have to drive out to get a good weld, otherwise you get porosity. The best bet is to get hold of another piece of Nylon, not glass filled, to use as a filler. Dry the tank out fully so there is no oil residue or fuel vapour - swill it out with acetone if you can get it, cheap vodka if you can't, to remove the oil. Scrape the crack out clean to form a very slight V (this can be done with a Stanley knife) and then point a hot air gun at it on warm and gentle for a couple of hours, to dry it. Once dry, you ideally use a very high temperature hot air gun with a fine nozzle, or if you don't have access to one it can be done with a high temperature soldering iron whacked on full. Heat the tank plastic to soft and glistening, whilst keeping the filler hot, then feed it in to the crack and let it fuse everything together. There are some videos on Youtube of plastic welding which are worth watching, but if you've ever tried TIG welding it's rather like doing aluminium. Hope this helps (guess where I work as my day job.....!) Alec
  13. This I would concur with if possible - whatever ends up happening with the original tree it would be prudent to plan for its succession and if there's space to plant something then with luck it may be possible to plan this on a long enough timeframe that the eventual impact is minimal. There is a much wider range of sizes and forms of walnut tree (and nut) than is generally recognised. If the site doesn't really allow for a large tree then there are much smaller varieties. This site has the best range of anyone I know of (over 100 ornamental and nut-bearing varieties, described in detail in the catalogue): Welcome at the website Nusery Smallekamp The trees are reasonably priced but shipping is expensive. As it happens I'm just about to place an order for a couple of trees and adding a third wouldn't affect it, so I'd be happy to add one if they decide to go that route, and ship it on in the UK. I'll be placing the order between Christmas and New Year. Alec Alec
  14. You're not allowed to cease skittle production - you've got all that sycamore to get through! Alec
  15. Would that by the Levada de Caldeirao Verde by any chance? We did that one in the fog - it didn't help. Also walked across from Areiro (third highest peak) to Ruivo (highest peak) and back via Torres (second highest peak) which involves crossing cliff faces on narrow paths, bits of which are missing having been destroyed by rockfalls. The way back on that route is the only place I've felt what the phenomenon of 'exposure' is like - described as feeling like a fly on a wall. Fortunately I also established that I don't suffer from it:001_smile: Still prefer to do that than climb that tower though! Alec
  16. Is it fairly small with the flowers hanging down in racemes like a laburnum? If so, could be Garrya elliptica. Alec
  17. Likewise anyone who needs a tip site in southern Cambridgeshire/southern Suffolk/northern Essex is welcome to tip at mine - prefer no crisp packets etc but stones/dirt/leaves/conny all fine:001_smile: Drop me a PM. Alec
  18. Not necessarily. You can be a registered sole trader but you don't specifically need a number anymore (used to be an agricultural holding number, rather than a livestock number - covered arable, orchards and smallholdings too:001_smile:). Very easy to get registered - you just ring them up and confirmation comes in the post! Alec
  19. Not everything on ebay is junk - there are some real bargains to be had. For various reasons, I am about to list an industrial laser. It is old, but in full working order. It will start on a 99p auction with no reserve and I really don't care what it makes! My approach with chainsaws is to buy the ones which state that they are spares or repair, at the appropriate price to replace the pot and piston with a good quality non-OEM one. If the pot and piston are good then I will be up. If they are not, I will be covered. It would be exceptional for more to be wrong with it than that in terms of expensive parts that you couldn't see were shot/missing. Alec
  20. Depends if Dave can hang on to it that long! Alec
  21. Do you mind what thread it is? The thread in the picture is pretty coarse - looks around 0.5" but doesn't quite look like 1/2" Whitworth. It would be much easier to make if a standard thread can be used. Do you need the detail feature at the other end (the little raised bit)? If so, that's the key diameter to work from. The originals are plated - looks to be chrome. Do you need to replicate this? If you get stuck, drop me a PM. Alec
  22. I'm guessing a diameter around the middle of 28", but if you run a tape around it (not over any of the lumps/side branch stubs) I can be more accurate. Based on the above, you've got around 45 Hoppus feet. This isn't perfect with the branch stubs at the top, so you could take a bit off, but is close enough. If you want to price to sell, I would offer it at £4/Hoppus foot, ie £180. I'd love to have it but I think my transport might just give up the ghost if I did! Alec
  23. Totally off-topic, but those also look to be some rather nicely coloured pantiles - about the shade I was originally looking for to go on my porch
  24. Many Thanks Chris - I'm sure if I add a bit of ginger I won't know the difference:001_smile: Alec
  25. That is some really neatly finished stuff - what did you do with it all? Alec

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.