spudulike

I believe that your saws max revs are 14,000rpm. If you have an ear for tuning carbs on chainsaws, you can tune it by ear. Probably the simplest thing to do is to turn the H screw counter clock wise by 1/4 turn and then check the plug colour is light-dark tan in colour after a couple of hours use. If you know someone or have a Tach then just tune the saw to around 13500rpm and that should do it.

Blimey...and that was the good news. Keep on with the updates as many get complacent with safety and hope the next stage in your repair goes well. All the best.

As Stubby said, it may just be that the engine is lacking compression. It is worth doing a compression check...anything over 150psi cold is OK and over 145psi warm is sort of OK. 175psi cold would be much nicer. If low, fit a new piston if you can get a new OEM part or decent aftermarket one.

If it is an Mtronic then you should be OK. The 261 came out in 2010, at 2015, it could be either model. If the crank bearing has failed in the past then it can take out the hardened surface of the crankshaft and was very common on the non Mtronic saw.

But Aldi is German...so Germany then

I wonder where it is manufactured.

Flywheel puller...Oh my.......just loosen the retaining nut, screw it on so it is around 4/5ths on the end of the crank, lift the saw by gripping the flywheel and whack the nut with a copper mallet hard. The flywheel will come off in 1-3 whacks, you just need strong fingers. The lip on the crank...there is a way but if I told you, the hit squad would be round in seconds

Dirty boy....I can't say that I have ever been aroused by a MS460, A 346XP is a different matter

Good job, at least it is right now. Makes me wonder about the other outfit though. Glad it all worked out.

No worries, hope it helped.

30 years is a pretty good saw life on a relatively cheap saw like this. 145psi just shows the saw has seen a bit of life. As ADW said, pop up some pics of the piston through the exhaust port so we can see the state of it. You may try fitting a new piston but up to you.

Good, thanks for letting us know that all is sorted.

If you are using the correct starting practice and lets face it, the Mtronic 261 is really pretty fool proof as you either are full choke to start on cold and just the run setting to start when hot, then it should be back to the dealer as it sounds like it has an issue. 2-3 pulls is pretty typical on this machine. You can try not using the decomp and see if it helps.

Glad you got it sorted, I think the £6.08 was worth it and gets us all on to the next issue thrown at us from the great big world out there. I hope the owner bestows many thanks on you and makes a nice big donation to the fix it organization you give time to or another worthy cause.

The Mtronic version seems to run stronger than the carb model. Your repair very much depends on if the cylinder can be reworked and the route cause found and if you can find someone to do it economically or not.

How the thing works...just in case you haven't twigged it yet....the end of the gear is cut at an angle and the adjuster has a nobble on it that allows the nobble to be positioned either slightly off the centre or much further off centre on the end of that gear. If the pump is set to "max", the nobble will be close to the outer edge of the end of that gear making it reciprocate much more than if it is closer to the centre. The pic below is of what looks to be a 346 Husqvarna type pump but it shows the above.

The lack of idle could be a number of things. When an engine warms up, typically the compression falls, this may be what is stopping the engine running correctly, especially with what you have done to it. I have done a fair number of BR600s and KM95/100/130 which are all 4 stroke and most have needed the tappets adjusted as most don't seem to do them. Generally, the engine feels much harder to pull over if they need adjusting and may sort your issues. Other heat issues - if the coil to flywheel gap is too large, when the coil gets warm, it can stop sparking so worth checking this. The carb may just need a bit of adjustment or the idle speeding up so it is less likely to stall. Lastly, the issue may just be a bit of dirt in the carb gauze strainer or a perforated pump diaphragm...I know most of this will probably be outside of your skill set but it is what it is and if your machine was in front of me...I would be checking these things before pulling the cylinder off to check the internals if the above fails.

No sign of the pics being pinched off another site which tends to be pretty common. The fact it includes a new bar and spare chain is a bit weird if it is nicked.

I once had a plastic pinion that looked perfect but when you followed the thread whilst slowly turning the pinion, the thread neatly went from a helix in to a perfect ring where the pump had got tight so the gear of the pump was never going to turn. Is the arm on the pinion relatively tight? If it is too loose, it won't work.

OK, probably the simplest solution for you. I use a small panel pin ground flat to pop that small roll pin out and then you can withdraw the adjuster and the gear once the small plastic plug is removed. The pump is probably blocked but not sure what that crunching is but guess all will be good once the new one is fitted. At least you have learnt a bit.

Just read your last post again.....have you not managed to get fluid or air through the pump? Any blockage will be on the pickup side of the pump so any fluid/pressure needs to go on the pump where it pumps oil from. As I said earlier, try rotating the pump gear whilst putting WD40 through it as in one position, the shaft flat will be in a position that will allow both holes to be pretty much open and the fluid should flow through easier.

Bearing in mind that you know there is no blockage and the pinion and arm are OK, I would say that Pleasant is correct. I used to test by attaching a bit of tube to the oil pickup or oil outlet union and blowing down it whilst turning the pump gear slowly. If the air flows through with little resistance, the pump is worn and you can also do similar with WD40. Basically, the end of the pump shaft has a flat on it and when it spins, the pump produces enough vacuum to pull the oil out of the tank. If the alloy body or shaft wear too much, the pump will stop working. I found this on a few old MS200Ts but less so on larger saws as they are used less but it is now the most likely cause if the pickup is clear of debris and the tank has been flushed out. £75..ouch, the price of spares is getting stupidly expensive.

I use a plane and then a rasping file, that takes a fair bit of wood off but is very controllable. I get the end of the handle to fit then work it down the handle, bit by bit and leave the last part tight so the head needs a real good belt to get it bedded. The rest is just fitting a well shaped wedge. I also use a god dollop of PVA wood glue over the handle and the wedge to bond it all together.

Well that's a bit bollocks isn't it. I used to get the older ones in regularly as most had no idea how they worked or how to fix them. I had 6 in at one go once and got three made up out of the parts and returned the rest as serviceable spare parts to keep the three good ones working. A big shame that companies stop making parts serviceable which inevitably means scrapping the major part and replacing the complete unit.

So, the last one is finished. The handle is a Stihl unit and came with a red end, lots of warning shyte and a big Stihl logo. On the plus side, it is ash and had a very straight and nice looking grain. The handle was stripped, cleaned, sanded, stained and the end matched with the eye of the Brades head which I believe to be manufactured toward the end of WW1 so 106 years old. The securing wedge went nicely on this one - very tight fit on the handle and a nice tightly fitting wedge, very satisfying. I was reading an article online waxing lyrically about a 1.5lb head on a 17" handle...this is a 500mm handle pared down to 18" and actually works really well, light but powerful, ideal for whacking big logs down to big kindling.