spudulike

I think I would be checking the carb gauze strainer and pump gasket first so hopefully the new carb kit may fix it.

Air filter looks fine to me.

The bearings are the weak points but I think the weakness is really the owners running them till death rather than greasing them up once in a while. They have their little foibles but once you have fixed a couple, they are pretty simple and save a lot of time and trouble doing smaller tree work. Not sure anyone round here likes fixing them though.

Funny that...I use the exact same thing and a small lemonade bottle. the two lines from the bottom of oil to a full bottle of petrol is bob on and is enough to half or fully fill most saws. I just don't need too much mix at any one time!

Helicoil inserts generaly come in 1diameter, 1.5 diameter, 2 diameter................. You just need to work out the length of the thread and work out if it is 1, 1.5 or 2 diameters etc You obviously need a 10mm 1.0mm insert as you said! Best go slightly short rather than longer!

Not nice!

Possibly the carb tuning, possibly a carb issue possibly someone has todged a saw out of crap Chinese parts. I did have one with a flappy choke that made it do that - you can pull the choke off with it running and try it without.

We would be alright without the politicians. Different villages shaking their gardening items at each other would be the worst of it. Seems to me that the real issue is Putins 5'7"....he is a short arse and needs a tall fella to give him a slap with a wet halibut!! About time someone told him to put his toys away.

I have seen plenty of pistons not look seized but often the piston loses diameter, the ring end gap is over 15 thou and it all means low compression. Have you compared this saw to a working 550/555/560/562 or similar? Very difficult to tell what the compression is like without pulling it over. I have seen fine wood chip in gauze strainers, bagged out metering diaphragms and perforated pump diaphragm flaps on these carbs but difficult to tell without seeing the saw. Have you cleaned the air filter? Is it one of those orange ones? They often look clean but their open mesh areas can often get blocked and it is like running a saw with the choke partially on - the saw runs rich and as you stop cutting the engine loads up with fuel and it dies. Worth checking.

"Rivet".....put your glasses on old boy.......they are on your head

Possibly a 625 but could be a 630, both pretty much the same....Serial plate is missing so would need to look at the cylinder to be sure. They are good Pro saws

Damn, there goes another of my little tricks

It would help if you stated why you fitted a new carb kit and purge bulb. If the saw was a non runner then ADW is probably correct. It is possible you have installed the carb kit incorrectly or even fitted one with the purge holes missing. The purge should suck on one side and blow on the other. Easy to test with a short length of pipe and a cup of fuel.

It has been taken down, I think our work is done....may even be someone on here! Good job!

ADW is of course, correct....I use helicoils or Stainless inserts but would use helicoils on a 10mm repair. My recommendation - use a decent tap - I use Vokel and I would attempt to use a pilot nose tap as if you have enough thread left, it eases the tap in and getting it straight is damn important. If you use a cheap crap tap....you may as well save your money and throw the cylinder away now! A helicoil needs a well cleanly cut receiving thread. If it is knobbly rough and poorly formed, you will get poor heat transfer and it may even pull out giving you a bigger headache. Probably easier to take the cylinder off but if you are precise and catch all the swarf, I have done successful repairs without stripping the engine. Here is the tap you need (Haven't checked best price). You will need a bit of thread left in the hole to receive the tap but it is your best option. M10 x 1.0 Helical Pilot Nosed Repair Spark Plug Repair Tap | Engineering-Supplies.com ENGINEERING-SUPPLIES.COM HSS-G Spark Plug Taps Pilot Nosed To suit wire inserts ISO (6H) Tap tolerance ISO 1 (4H)

Sounds like you have been through a hellish time but you did right by your mother and when you get over her passing away, you will look back and reflect on the fact you did all you can and you will gain strength from that fact. In time you will remember the good stuff and laugh again.

He has some other cheap Chinese saws for sale but this one has the real stickers on it. I think it may be Zomax rearing its ugly head again! Caveat emptor!

Not far from me, perhaps I should go and see it I tried to report it but eBay have changed their reporting process and there is no easy way to say someone is selling a fake piece of shyte anymore! £260 for a non working bit of crap that cost £60 new.....some people must be dumb.

When I first got in to the porting thing, I did a lot of tests on my 357 with 8 pin, narrow kerf, 7 pin narrow kerf and standard 1.5mm gear. The 7 pin was faster on anything over 10-12" and the narrow kerf was 15% faster than the 1.5mm chain on the same rim. It really made that difference but it is obviously a compromise on strength in the cut so if you are mostly doing heavy forestry, it may not be for you but try it if speed is your thing. I tried a ported MS200t on a 1/4" pitch recently and it was completely bonkers unstoppable in the cut, the revs barely dropped in the cut under load! You just give up a bit of chain/bar strength - more chain tension adjusting etc!

Could just be the old shyte in the carb gauze strainer again. Worth checking the pump diaphragm as well, those flaps do tend to perforate sometimes. The bloke did say the compression was good...seen that beforeworth checking as well!

This may help, it states the clutch should be 86mm in dia. 050-051-075-076 Service Manual.pdf

If I had it, I would measure the clearance between the clutch and drum....a cheap set of metric feeler gauges will do this and look for 1mm+. I sort of suspect that the clutch springs are letting the shoes out too early and allowing the shoes to contact the clutch drum. The springs should keep the shoes in until 3000 - 3500 rpm before allowing them to drive the chain. Typically this issue is always down to worn, slack or broken clutch springs but can't be sure on yours until you confirm the clearance - someone with an 050 or 051 could confirm this clearance but would would need consideration for worn parts. The rest of the running issues - the saw should have enormous wrist breaking compression - if you measure it, expect 170psi+. Fuel systems are usually the next biggest culprit on old machines and then the HT system. Just a case of working through the machine bit by bit.

The clearance between drum and clutch looks pretty tight to me, especially on the laft hand side. The trouble with the clutch being aftermarket, you cant be sure it isn't just badly made or the clutch springs are poor - They usually are pretty iffy at the best! Your carrier (Centre boss) arms have a large gap between them and the clutch shoe. Looking at the IPL, it would seem that the arm usually extends to the shoe like the attached pic. Have you got the old clutch to compare? Does the clutch drum spin freely as it is without the machine running. Have you tried putting the bar on, starting it up and resting the chain on wood and blipping the throttle so you get a bit of friction action between the clutch drum and clutch? By doing this, you may take off any flash on the castings. I have just measured the clutch to drum clearance on my 181SE Husqvarna, it measures 1.2 - 1.3mm so you should expect very similar. If you are clever, you may be able to see where the shoes locate to stop on the carrier and lightly grind the surface so the shoes sit deeper making the clutch a smaller diameter. I would measure the gap you have and then decide the best course of action. You really need 1 - 1.5mm for it to work well. If this is OK, the clutch springs are best swapped out with OEM ones or just get the OEM clutch.

Push it back in to place...years left in it

You can't just ask "will it need retuning" as we have no idea where your saw is maxing out to. The very least you can do is to open the H screw out to the limiter but I have found many 460s and 361s over revving as they have loosened up with age and have had to pull the limiter to get it right. The only way anyone will know is to measure it at max revs and to retune it as and if required. Anything else is whether you will get away with it or not long term.