spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Top advice - always do this as my first check when buying a new saw, if you get stuck - PM me and I can take a look. Sounds like you have fuel so all that is left is spark and compression! Probably been seized before and they just stuck a new ring in without cleaning the bore or looking for the reason it went in the first place. Make sure the saw has had its inlet boot mod, prone to leaking decomp valve - especially on the EPA model!
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Thats good, hopefully my advice was useful - it is worth doing up yourself as a second saw - not a patch on the 345 but will do the job. Here is mine running at 13,500 rpm at the top end with a muffler mod:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFnZ3ubLzjs]YouTube - Husqvarna 345 Muffler Mod.MOV[/ame]
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Sounds like a faulty cap or HT lead - possibly the conductor has cracked and only works in certain positions - buy a multimeter and use that Ohm range - go on....you know it makes sense:thumbup:
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You can buy parts from a dealer, from one of the online dealers or just measure up the diameter (Probably M5) and the length and buy in a few of them as they are always handy. A loose muffler will generally allow the exhaust out too readily and can cause a weak mixture - the saw was designed to run with the thing tight. These small running issues are a PITA - much prefer a saw to have died! I wouldnt worr about the saw not being right as most saws on Ebay are in dire need of a good service - just make sure you list it as "Spares or repair" and let people know it runs but not well. Not a great time to sell but with a few nice pictures, it is worth £60 - £80 or £100 - £120 in good working order with scabbard etc.
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Hows about - before stripping parts out of your saw - take some digital photos of any complex parts so you know how to put them back together again!
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It sounds fuel related, I would put the carb back to factory settings and see what effect it has. It may be an air leak, dodgy fuel pipe/filter, breather, crap in the carb - unfortunately, these saws are not worth a fortune so probably not worth spending days trying to sort it. It would be worth taking the muffler off and checking th episton isn't damaged - always worth doing.
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No problem - just rebuilt a coil by taking the laminate steel core out of one non worker - driving the laminated core out of a worknig coil of a different type and then rebuilt in to a new coil - saw fired second pull, surprised even myself!
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FUBAR then:thumbdown: Bummer - can't find one - you could ask the US guys on Arboristsite.com but think you have the holy grail of pots to find!
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I have just cleaned and repaired an 066 - from memory the air box back plate gives pre filtration to the main spherical air filter. If you are milling and this is mising then you are probably letting in a fair bit of dust/chippings in to the air box. A fellow member agg221 (I think the last bit is right) uses this saw for milling - I am sure he can offer advice. I would either fit a spare or adhere some washable filter material to the plate to repair it. Keep an eye on the top end revs of the saw - running without this filter may make a bit of difference in weakening the mixture.
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Whats wrong with the pots on your saws - I have salvaged many that some would say couldn't be done! If it is scoring or ring damage then it is totalled, if the plating has worn through or is coming off then it is also totalled, aluminium transfer from seizure is generally salvageable unless it has really been hammered.
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The final cost depends on the condition of the saw and if you have the skill to assemble it yourself or have to pay someone like me to do it for you and I don't over egg the fee. Biggest bummer is having to split the crank cases - pistons are relatively cheap - the clutch covers are a bit fragile and often need replacing or patching. I have done a few and sold a few - they have their weakneses but once you have had one stripped down they are fine to work on - better than the Chinese poo!
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GHS - Garden Hire Spares see to be ok - just fitted one on a 066 Magnum and the owner is miling with a 044 fitted with one - my porting "Pistons - fried like an egg" has more info within it.
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I purchased a 266 that was a non runner with no spark - the previous owner had taken the coil off to clean it and not gapped it correctly - 5 minutes later:thumbup: If it doesn't work with a very small gap then try a much larger one but looks like it has gone bad - a real strange one!
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Illustrated Parts List:001_rolleyes: Plance éclatées 034 : Smaf-Touseau.com Just check again all points of connection plus any buffer rubbers that may make a difference!
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Oh well - resort to swearing at it. Seriously - you can measure the coil resistance - HT lead to cut out connection should be 1.5k ohms or thereabouts and cut out to earth - around 2 ohms. This tests the coils but little else. If this is ok, it is still possible the electronics that actually generate the timing of the spark have gone down. I have no way of testing this, and don't believe you can. I would disconnect the cut out wire and use a piece of A4 printer paper to set the gap very close and spin it over with a new or known good plug and look for a spark under low light conditions, some saws need a good tug. If you still have no spark, the coil is Fubared and needs throwing in the bin! I am assuming the saw hasn't got a contact breaker or external trigger unit! But what do I know:001_rolleyes:
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It is obvious - the first saw was a female one, she is pissed at you for removing her ignition coil and is now refusing to work until you apologise:thumbup:
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Very difficult to tell without seeing it but if I had it in front of me, I would be checking every mount between the rear handle/"chassis" and the engine plus making sure all the AV mounts are correctly fitted. Can't be much more help - are you sure nothing is missing on your saw - if one mount is missing, this can cause saws to have a large amount of play between the engine and rear handle asssembly! Have you checked it against the IPL?
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ACDC Hard as a rock live in Munich on the AV system - that woke the neighbours up:thumbup: Bloody ears are ringing now:laugh1:
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30% of the cc size of the engine is the very basic rule - 60cc = 20" bar etc As I said - it is a BASIC rule of thumb!
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Looks clean enough, hope you get more than a tenner for it!
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All you need is a gauge that can read up to 10psi of pressure, a length of pipe, a suitable valve that lets pressure in and seals back pressure, a fitting that links to the engine that allows the air in and a suitable pump. You can buy a purpose made kit or modify parts purchased separately. The hardest part is sealing the exhaust and inlet ports as even the slightest leak will mess up the results.
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Just fitted a Garden Hire Spares one on another members Stihl 066 Magnum - 170 psi without running in and looks fine. Time will tell - he is running one on a 044 with similar readings with all being good. Other options - Mister Solutions Stoke on Trent - Andy is the man!
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If your wear is around the inlet port then it may be years of fine wood dust etc coming through the filter. The cylinders have a finite life, the plating will wear out in time, you may get away with a little wear below the line of the exhaust port but the compression area above the exhaust port must be free of scores and have no damage. If the cylinder has the plating worn below the inlet port then I think it is time to fit a new P&C or buy a new saw - you have probably had your money out of it:thumbup:
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Check your gauge with a known good saw that is run in and working well - if it pulls the same then all is well and your gauge is reading low. Standard test is to test a cold saw (a hot saw lowers compression), it should have been run if possible so normal levels of fuel/oil cover the piston/cylinder, the saw should be put on the fast idle setting and the choke taken off, the first pull should give around 100psi and then around 4-5 more pulls should maximise the compression reading which should be as originally specified in my earlier posting. 120 psi is low and you may have damaged the ring on assembly, does the saw run - 120 psi and it would be touch and go as to whether it runs. Does the 51 have a number of piston options - perhaps you have fitted the wrong one? I think they came in 44 and 45mm versions!
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Oh - I gather you salvaged that comp gauge off the Ark Royal - think you may need a new one - the Gunson one usually does the job - much read about Schrader valves and the like but mine works just fine.
