spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Clean the tank up inside and out and then use the slow dry JB weld on it, it is good for 500 deg F but would fit an aluminium heat shield over the repair - those foil take away trays make good ones or use a thin aluminium drinks can cut to size. Other than that, ebay! I do have cases from a 346XP but they are a different design:thumbdown:
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Got this type on mine and always have a tool to hand to shift them - I am guessing you may have these ones - OIL FILLER CAP FITS HUSQVARNA CHAINSAW 345 350 | eBay They can be a bit tight - personally I always carry a scwrench when using a saw - how do you tighten the chain without a screwdriver or have you got the tooless version:001_rolleyes:
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When the key shears, the saw often backfires on pulling it over - scared the poop out of me when I had this happen - not the sort of thing I was expecting - here is the gallery of the 028 I did - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-stihl-028-broken-woodruff-key-removal.html Nice clean job and ran well once it had been done.
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Have sent a PM about this - yes, a bad seize, the cylinder may be salvageable but is difficult to tell until the saw is apart, GHS do non OEM spares and the original fault needs to be found plus the carb will need to be reset after the repair is done. Here is one I did earlier - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-stihl-066-picture3932-deformed-crank-seal-previous-rebuild.html A seal damaged during a previous repair by A.N.Other blew this 066 Magnum:thumbdown:
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There is only one place the heat is coming from - the top end and muffler - I guess you may have a leak in the bottom of the muffler or it is somehow blowing exhaust gasses down on to the top of the oil tank - can't see it being much else - possibly worth fitting an Aluminium heatshield under the muffler - some saws have this as standard! The 025 is a clamshell type engine - you may have lots of woodchip and gloop between the tank and the plastic oil tank transfering heat from one to the other.
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If the oil is getting hot in the tank then you must be getting thermal transfer from the cylinder head through the crankcase and to the oil tank. I reckon your cylinder head may be dirty and have wood chips and oil covering the cooling fins stopping them dissipating the heat.
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Well - if you do get some free wood, I would be interested:001_tt2:
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Hot in the tank, hot as it comes out of the oiling hole or hot on the bar?
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Looks like we have two experts on this site - I couldn't have put it any better myself - I used a 0.15mm home cut gasket bringing the squish down to 0.65mm - you can go as low as 0.5mm and use sealent with no gasket but chose not to. I raised the exhaust port by the same to retain the port timing but am told by one of the top saw tuners that this isn't necessary - the unlimited coil is a big improvement when tuning the carb with a tach. Next step is to do a comparison cut - a standard 346XP against my tuned one - should be interesting - just wish I had more time, too busy fixing saws for others!
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I think that the amount of diesel dumped on roundabouts by overfilling truck drivers is a far greater issue - used to ride bikes many moons ago and even a slight whiff of diesel or a dark patch on an apex would be enough to make me back off and straighten the bike up! I cant see a little bit of oil would be an issue unless you are working over a hairpin bend for a long long time!
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The cylinder may be ok if it isn't scored - I may be able to salvage it and a new piston should get the saw going again. They aren't bad saws and pretty well made by todays standards - better than much of the tut exported from China! You could send it over for an opinion!
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We did tell you, 346XP is one fine saw - will be even better once it has had a few tanks of fuel through it! And thats the difference between a home owner and a pro saw:thumbup:
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No not yet - out yesterday and now halfway through a MS200T rebuild for another member - just pressure checked it - 100%, and am reassembling it now - looking good and should run like a champ soon. Will try and cut some wood over the next week or two - pretty busy as usual!
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Mmmmm - thought I may get one or two comments about the vid - or even my dodgy PPE:001_rolleyes:
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I won't tell you how much mine cost - needless to say it was a fair bit less than £450:laugh1:
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Big, heavy, bulletproof, powerful, generally in really good nick as the army rarely uses them - great reputation!
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Fixing chainsaws is like selecting a new Pope - when you see the smoke - you know all is good:thumbup:
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The clutch and sprocket are probably bound together with rust or chips, dust and dried bar oil so when the brake is on, it locks the crank in place!
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But the clutch springs will still pull the clutch shoes in, if they snap then the clutch shoe will be loose and exert no force on the sprocket - so I am still baffled. To the original poster - do a compression check or pull the muffler and take a look at the front of the piston!!!!!
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No worries - if you have experienced problems and think it may help then always worth trying to help! Hope the guy gets the problem sorted:thumbup:
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Mmmm - perhaps in your world of widgets, wotchamacallits and doofas - cos they doofa this and they doofa that:lol: If you ever need a new coil, I would suggest you don't ask your dealer for a master box - he may give you one made of cardboard:laugh1: No offence - I know you are trying to help:thumbup1:
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:confused1::confused1:Huh???
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I may be able to salvage the cylinder and then fit a new piston, the cylinders can't be rebored as they have plated aluminium bores and not steel liners as many four strokes and older two strokes have. The reason for the seizure MUST be found before using the saw with new parts, the most common reason is old fuel being used or straight petrol with air leaks being the second. After market non OEM P&C kits are relatively expensive for this saw - £105 inc VAT:thumbdown: Have you removed the cylinder yet - if so, post a picture of the exhaust side of the bore - a real good picture if possible. I am happy to work on the saw and can pressure check it, compression check it and finally tach tune it to ensure all is good.
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:confused1: Are we talking the coil???? Got no idea what the "master box" is - I always thought it was the Tardis:lol:
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Most common faults are the cut out wire on the coil has come adrift or the black wire by the front handle mount has come off its connector. It is a simple circuit, the coil has a connection to cut the spark, a black wire comes off this and goes up to the front of the handle, this clips on to a spade connector that can be seen if you take out the front mount bolt. the spade connector connects the switch in the handle to an earth wire that is clamped around the front handle mount - green and yellow in colour. If you take the handle appart, be very careful, ease of the cover very lightly and .....TAKE SOME SNAPS WITH A DIGI CAMERA before all the parts drop on the bench and you have to send it to someone like me:001_rolleyes: If you get stuck, I can fix it for a nominal fee no worries - serviced and refurbed many of these in my time and know all their little foibles:laugh1:
