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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. Air Arms for me, got the Rowan mag on it!
  2. Yes, thats one option - the other two being to take the handle off and push it against the star mechanism and pull it back, the other is making a special tool out of a scrench or socket. He has shifted it now using my advice - the saw is one I sold him and think the poor guy hasn't had much experience with saws as he has flooded it - should be ok tomorrow once the fuel has cleared - common mistake to think the saw will start on full choke but this is rarely achieved on two strokes!
  3. It started 4th pull and revs really nice - have set the carb rich and will tune at the weekend when I have more time - will fit the black unlimited coil before doing this so the rev limiter doesn't effect the tach giving spurious max rev readings. All looking good so far:thumbup:
  4. Be about time - the wife keeps falling over the parts:001_rolleyes: I am guessing the decomp valve wasn't the issue with the 357 - still dont know what the issue is....perhaps the Altitude difference:lol: The 346 is my project to see what is possible, fixed up so many saws and don't do much for myself so I took about the fastest saw around and am attempting to get even more out of it. Hopefully it will fly, my 345 was great after I modded the muffler so have high expectations!! So - not for sale but if it all works and I am happy........can do saws for others.
  5. I have PMed you but any other solutions would be helpfull!
  6. Good stuff - glad you are getting there - I find many use their kit until it drops and then complain bitterly about it. All this kit needs a bit of TLC to give it the lifespan it should have - sprockets and sprocket bearings are often abused - generally knocking out chains early in the process!
  7. Having problems with the compression gauge - bang goes the first check but with a thinner base gasket, the compression feels good. Will do the pressure check and report on the compression when I get a new gauge. Hope to fire it up at the weekend:thumbup:
  8. Your saw is 35cc, the silverside 346XP is a pro saw at 50cc - you are comparing a 900cc Daewoo to a Lambo Diablo - you pays your money.........and you get what you pay for:thumbup:
  9. May need a helicoil put in if the bolt is spinning - a sharp craft knife can be good to cut dried up muck off the fins - I am used to doing this to MS200Ts as they are quite prone to this.
  10. Probably grime on the cooling fins burning off, would recommend cleaning the muck off as in time it will build up and stop the cylinder cooling properly. You may have a broken or damaged exhaust gasket letting unburnt fuel oil come in to cotact with the cylinder.
  11. Good news but what happened to your 024 or is it under the bench now:001_rolleyes:
  12. Just some very mild porting on a Husky 262, a Stihl 024 and a muffler mod on my Husky 345. I have kicked around on the American AS site so have picked up the relevant specs rather than just going at it. lots more to it than just opening up the port - the heights, widths, the squish and transfers all make a difference. The saw should really rip once tuned to its new spec.
  13. Think I had better get this one going before doing yours - looking forward to firing it up - the 345 with just a muffler mod was good and hope this one lives up to expectations:thumbup: Should be able to hear it from where you are:lol:
  14. Well - at long last I have had the time to take the porting file to the ports of my 346XP 50cc silverside. From the pics, I have opened up the muffler, opened up the inlet and exhaust ports and matched the exhaust port to muffler opening. The different shape on the inlet is down to a strengething pad on the wall of the offset inlet port - ground some away but didn't fancy seeing daylight through the sidewall! I have measured the squish and now need to make a new cylinder gasket and then reassemble, pressure check, compression check and then tach the saw. I will then fit the black unlimited coil for that extra zing and re-tach - the blue coils send the tach in to spasms:001_rolleyes: Hope to get it back together over the newt week or two and will report back once it is done.
  15. Its a small saw - only way to get it going ok is to do what stihl do on their 170/180s - short bar 1.1mm narrow kerf chain - anything more and 35cc just won't cut the mustard. If you want a budget replacement I would go for a 345 or 350 - lots of wallop in those saws and still very light:thumbup: Used my 345 lots - the saw to grab when a bit of logging is in the offering!
  16. I have reported it, I like the way he says he is an old boy but has a "Punto lowering kit" as one of his ebay purchases - obviously a "down with the kids" kind of pensioner
  17. Here we go - chain saws stihl | eBay Another fake Stihl on ebay, see that the seller can't say what the model is and the top view only - no side shots to give the game away! Looks like another Zomax to me! Purchased a couple once as a job lot - waste of time - a year old and in worse condition than 15 year old Huskys plus no resale value!
  18. STIHL 024 026 CHAINSAW REAR HANDLE FUEL TANK | eBay You would have the old style black filler cap with this one!
  19. A warm or hot engine vapourises the fuel/oil mix and the engine likes vapour and not fluid so a warm engine will tend to start easier than cold. One old trick was to warm the spark plug with a gas torch - a neighbour had trouble with a wacker plate he had hired once - couldn't get it going, told him that tip and wish I hadn't:lol: Always exceptions to the rule but there are always base facts that are correct most of the time. One last tip on the dodgy saw - check the impulse line is good, on a cold start there is a possibillity it isn't pulling enough fuel through - just a thought! If you are going to throw it - you can throw it in my direction:thumbup:
  20. You should have said that this device is the best way to sharpen chains...end of!!! That would have got you some comments. From past experience, most of the guys on here prefer to sharpen free hand with a file, I myself do this but use a grinder on chains that are well out of spec or are damaged and need a lot of metal ground off - each person has a preference - I can't use my grinder out in the field so still need to use files!
  21. Will let you off this time:001_rolleyes: - You can get saws starting ok but being a pig when hot due to the compression dropping off when hot Back to the problem - try giving it three pulls on full choke and then get someone to hold the throttle open whilst you pull the starter to see if it goes - the choke lever has a full choke position and then a fast idle position, if this "fast idle" position isnt holding the throttle open, the saw will be a pig to fire - had a 80cc 181 Husqvarna like that and it almost killed me - great workout though!
  22. I load the dishwasher but if the wife asks me to empty it I say I had better get an engineer out as I purchased a self unloading one .......... the misses usually unloads it while I am at work:thumbup:
  23. # Erm - compression is always more on a cold engine due to the fuel/oil coating covering the piston and cylinder being thicker when cold and more liquid when warm. Things I would check - make sure the choke is fully closed when the choke is engaged, make sure the throttle opener for starting the saw is opening the throttle when you take the saw choke lever off full choke and on to the next position. Sometimes sterting the saw whilst holding the throttle wide open will get it going. Agree with the earlier suggestion that the L screw may be turned in too much, if you undo it a little, the idle will need adjusting.
  24. Yup - what he said if you want the saw to be in top nick and ready for a lot of work.

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