spudulike

1982 sounds to early as this was the introduction date of the 181se. I paid in total £160 for the green one in my Avatar but that was a bargain, you can expect to pay £250 - £450 depending on condition - I was lucky with mine! They are good pro saws, reasonably heavy but are bullet proof.

Got the Felco No2s, just tried them, very nice, razor sharp and well made.

Probably two flat pins with no earth:lol: Only hand held if he is friendly:001_rolleyes:

Some clutches have a hex nut on them (Stihl), some have cut-outs or slots you can insert an old screwdriver and belt it (Husqvarna) and some you need to look for the appropriate recesses and make a suitable tool out of an old socket. The cluch needs to be turned clockwise to loosen it - it has a right hand thread on it. The first few are usually dificult but get easier to do once you have some experience.

Personally I can sharpen by hand or with an electric grinder - out in the field sharpening by hand is a must, for lightly damaged cutters or just being blunt then files are best but I like the grinder if there is any heavy damage. Grinders get bad press but it is generally the lack of finess in the operator using them, bringing the grinder down on to the cutter and grinding it under pressure will make its cutting edge glow orange and that will harden it making it almost impossible to file. It will also give the cutter a grinding flash of excess metal around the ground area - there is a method to grinding and once learnt, the grinder will give very good results - same as most things in life - you reap what you sow:thumbup:

I am sure that joke just whizzed over the heads of anyone who isn't or hasn't been a biker:thumbup:

That can't sound too nice and must vibrate a bit!

Nice job, now for the next one:lol:

Need a bit more info to make an educated guess - if the saw is cutting and under load the revs soar and the chain speed slows then it is the clutch, if the saw just bogs and lacks power then it sounds like low compression or fuel/air problem. I can't imagine the chain is spinning round the sprocket and a bad sprocket bearing wouldnt loose you much power as the sprocket is locked against the clutch during a cut. I would pull the muffler and inspect the piston - you may have part seized it:thumbdown: Measuring the compression would be good but the inspection will give you the info you need. I would make sure the air filter is clean and worth looking at the colour of the plug - if you get stuck then am happy to take a look - had AGG221s 066 magnum apart and sorted - a keen miller as well and I am not talking flour:thumbup:

Sounds about right - the lower edge of the intake will drop by the thickness reduction of the base gasket and that should increase intake duration, the upper edge of the exhaust port was taken up by the difference in gasket thickness to preserve original timing and hopefully the reduced squish will increase compression by 5-10psi after all a higher compression always pulls better then a well worn one. I pollished the exhaust and left the intake port but didn't spend hours on them. Didn't get round to taching it as I was up at Mallory Park watching the Build Base Championship - a couple of TZ250s showing 600 and 1000cc fours a thing or two:thumbup:

Got a strange feeling of deja vu

Thats a bit heathen for a learned man like yourself:001_rolleyes: Hows the magnum - oiling nicely I hope?

The switch should just connect the coil connection to earth, either the cable is damaged/broken, the new switch is faulty or it isnt connected to earth - meter it out with an ohm meter:thumbup:

Not done an 880 but from this - Plance éclatées MS 880 : Smaf-Touseau.com There appears to be a couple of clamps held in place with a spring, not seen anything like this before but would think the exhaust should come off reasonably easy:001_rolleyes: Generally this is the first check I do on most saws as it gives a good indication of how well the engine is. If you have a compression gauge then that would also give good info. If the piston is good then that is very good as the problem is probably fuel related - is the compression good, if you pull it over with the decomp out, does it feel all springy and spongey at the top end as the piston goes over tdc?

Personally I would pull the muffler off and look at the piston to make sure it isn't fried - the 880 is an expensive bitof kit and will have a good residual price whether it is good or broken. If the piston has vertical scoring then it will need a bit of work to see if the cylinder is salvageable. Let us know if the piston looks clean and in good condition. If you want it gone over then let me know.

Unfortunately there is more to porting than just taking a dremmel to the cylinder and hoping it will work. On the exhaust port, you can make the port wider but are limited by the wall thickness and also the piston design. You can raise the top of the port but this will change the power band and may lessen the compression. There are specs that should be adhered to when widening the port. The inlet port can be widened but are again limited by the piston and the design of the port - there are magical figures on the % of bore size that the ports should be! You can have a go at the lower edge of the port to lengthen inlet duration and also have a go at the transfer ports or take a little off the piston skirt. The squish can be adjusted for optimal - manufacturers rarely dive in to this grey area plus you have the muffler opening that again has a magical % of exhaust port sizing tolerance! Very difficult to see what you have done and if it will work - if the ring is catching then that is bad - the edges of a ported port need taking down with a dull dremmel bit or as I did with a diamond file followed by semi fine wet and dry paper - if you have made them too wide then hope you are happy with your new ash tray:thumbdown: If you put the piston in the bore as it would normally sit then draw the outline of the port on the piston and post this image - it will tell me if the port is too wide - also, if you have raised the port by more than circa 1mm then you may have gone too far! I am no expert but have spent many hours gathering information on this tech and did what I did with a wealth of knowledge and a sound experience of saw maintenance - mistakes can be costly!

Cheers Matty, will probably tach the saw tomorrow and see what I can get out of it - got a 17" and a Stihl semi chisel on it at the moment but reckon the 15" bar I have will be the one to go for - better balance and speed.

Yup - there always is:thumbup:

Good work.........but that recoil needs sorting out:001_rolleyes: Take the cover off and give it one more turn round the pulley or shorten it by 3":thumbup1:

That is about the best advice you will get, I have had a good number of saws through my workshop and was working on an old Jonsered some 30 years old, used but still in great condition and compared it to one of these cheap one year old Chinese saws - I would take the old saw every time! The Chinese saws are made of inferior materials and will not last long. Not sure where you are but I have a couple of small Huskys on the shelf, both runners, just need a clean which I will do - can do one for around the £110 mark if you are interested! They won't astound you but they will give you a few years work and still be worth £80 after 4 or 5 years use:thumbup: Unlike the Chinese tut!

compression looks OK - a tad over 150psi - a new P&C kit as well?? Will go up to 170psi once the engine is wet and the piston has bedded in a little

Got the saw running on the blue limited coil and have now swapped it out for the unlimited black one - hope to get it tached on Sunday but need a new chain for it - only got a semi chisel on a 17" bar and am thinking a 15" bar full chisel will be faster! All sounds good, lots of noise and revs cleanly but only tuned by ear!

Most of the guys on here use FR Jones for new saws - good on price I will think you will find!

Yup, thats right, a second user one in good working order is worth around £80, non working, around £40, they have a really bad oiler design that usually fails after a while and you need to pull the whole saw apart to replace. Try selling it and buy a Husky 345/350:thumbup1:

Not really worth spending the time on - pick up one off ebay that has a good P&C - sold one on there a few months back.