spudulike

There could be a reason for that:sneaky2:

First thought is that the chain should not spin at idle, this shows either the idle is too fast, the spring/springs need replacing or there is something binding between the clutch/crankshaft and drum - baling twine is a favourite. The binding between the clutch/crankshaft and drum can cause the machine to stall when the chainbrake is attached. Common fuel related problems are sawdust in the carb gauze filter under the single central screw cover - that can cause bad top end and poor idle. Does the machine stall if the chainbrake is on or off or both?

Busy weekend, finished tach tuning the MS440 that I ported the previous weekend - pulls 13,800rpm and reckon it will do more:thumbup: Been preparing a 346XP for sale, turned out nice - not the cleanest saw but pulls 180psi and revs out - tached at 14,000rpm. The clutch is shagged so have a new one on order and should be good once done. Been cleaning up a Stihl 034 for sale - looks a nice machine, need one new part for the oiler but close to finished. Took a Jonsered 2051 apart, couldn't believe my eyes when I took the muffler off - the piston ring location pin was slap in the middle of the exhaust port - some numpty has put the piston in back to front - lucky it didn't take the ring and port out! The saw is a bit down on compression so am fitting a new ring and will tweak the squish to get it up again - should be a nice logging saw once cleaned and back together again.

In basic terms, a working engine needs fuel spark and compression - it is more complicated than that but those are the most basic priniciples of combustion. Your problem is probably fuel/carb related as it is the most common issue followed by compression. Firstly, is your saw low hours and in good condition or old and well used? Secondly, when running, does the saw idle briskly with the chain not spinning or does it sound slow to the point of dying. Thirdly - has the saw run fine in your possesion for a good while before this started? Have you always used fresh fuel oil mix in the engine - do you clear the fuel tank of petrol if the saw is going to stand for a couple of months? Lastly - you don't NEED a tach to get a saw running OK, it just helps you set it to factory limits and gets the best out of your saw. Has anyone fiddled with the carb settings on your saw? If not, it will probably not need adjusting as the factory settings will be pretty much fine and the problem is probably elswhere.

The technical data says 13 - 24" but you will find 15" is good, fast and fun - it will take up to an 18" well but anything over is a bit large IMO"

My father made one for us as we have lots of bats round here and it hasn't been used in the last 5 years. He even went to the trouble of sourcing rough sawn wood etc I think it is just luck as to if they will find it!

Yes, I know the little foibles of the MS200 well, if anyone needs help just PM me and I will get it sorted for you.

OK, will PM you:thumbup:

I have had a bit of experience of this, I used to say the insert had to be aluminium but what I found to be best was a steel solid insert - Timesert type and make sure the thread you cut is tight and good. I inserted the insert with a little JB weld and the one I did held up just fine - the aluminium one didn't! Helicoils will be a bit weak IMO

Nope, never seen one - the OEM one is around £150 inc I believe!

Found a better picture of the modified piston that shows the modified opened up window on one side and the smaller standard window on the other. I have fitted a dual port muffler, it was a little quiet so opened up the outlet and drilled the baffle plate a little - sounds a little louder now - should breath better:thumbup: Just got to tune the carb and then cut a bit of wood:biggrin:

For my domestic log pile I have a few tons of rings and lengths on hard standing, one covered log store seasoned for two years and the other around one year - we burn the two year stuff first and dib in to the one year and then refill during the spring, summer and autumn:thumbup:

7 out of 17....cmon, thats sheer muppetry, get those files out and get the results back to Rob.....how difficult can it be:001_rolleyes: Don't you sharpen your chains:blushing:

With an 020T carb fitted on the MS200T, the carb is pretty reliable. Personally I would put it in an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one - I have known carbs to have this sort of problem and a good clean sort it out. Other than that, the pumping gasket/membrane flaps can get pierced through wear or there could just be crap in the gauze filter. It may be a crack in the impulse line or a hole/split in the carb boot. These are the usual suspects.

That's great, always good when you succeed and glad to be of help - always there to give advice and if that doesn't work then will fix the problem here if it suits and I have the time. Cheers:thumbup:

Easy bit first, the leaking welch plug basically fooks up the idle as the fuel is pulled up through the plug rather than past the L screw so you get a varying idle but it wont effect the high speed that much. A missing welch plug stops the engine running. Your problem sounds like severe lack of fuel or massive air leak, a few things to try: - 1) check that the pumping membrane is next to the carb body and the spacer gasket is next to the cover 2) check the spacer gasket on the diaphragm side is between the carb body and the diaphragm 3) Check the metering arm height - I think the 026 carb has a raised bit around the metering arm that the arm should be level with. 4) check the pumping membrane flaps have no holes in them - put it up against a bright light to do so. 5) Has the carb been in the ultrasonic cleaner - you may have the main jet blocked - look at my earlier thread this weekend on the MS440 - it had similar problems and had a plugged main jet. 6) Have you blasted carb cleaner down the H and L screw holes and noted if the cleaner comes out of the low speed and high speed injectors on the bottom of the carb bore/throat/choke. 7) Check the breather - loosen the fuel cap when running - does it help? 8) Have you pressure checked it, you may have a very shot crank seal as it is giving similar symptoms to a Jonsered 630 I have which had a completely shot crank seal. Thats a first pass - let us know how you get on. On any saw that I am not happy with, I pressure and vac test it as it cuts out all those bits that are hard to inspect and can give issues. Other than that, you could try a known good carb to eliminate the carb.

Cmon Lads - 4 out of 17 back, some survey, it doesn't take long - took me 5 -10 mins and hope the saw owners don't notice their chains have been filed:blushing: This could be a very useful survey - lift thine bottoms off thy couch:thumbup:

Totally agree, just starting to see Buzzards and Kites round my neck of the woods - nature has a funny way of controlling numbers by controlling their food - they hunt and eat, their sources of food dwindles, their numbers reduce - thats how it works unless man gets involved......and fooks it all up:001_rolleyes:

Busy day today, the Wolfman picked up his 084, his bloody KM100 Stihl had packed up yet again, quick fiddle with the tappets and bingo - running again:thumbup: Been working on a MS440, the carb was plugged with a piece of sealent used on the brass plug and welch plug. Put it in the US cleaner and then resealed the welch plug. The saw has been ported, not a massive amount to be done as Stihl haven't left much on the table. Opened up the piston windows to increase flow, widened the exhaust port, lowered the transfers and reshaped the upper transfers to improve scavaging. Have modded the muffler, looking at the front muffler cover for modification or may fit the dual port Stihl unit. Fired it up today and seems a bit more lively - just needs tuning after the muffler is finished! From the pics below, you can see what has been ground out - all ringed in red:thumbup1:

At least you got a bit back on the three saws you did for him - I'll see you at the gates of Heaven - better than having a red hot poker up your bottom in Hell:thumbup:

That was one of my suggestions - probably works by dissipating the exhaust gasses better than a single port!

All is well that ends well!

Sounds like it may be good for cleaning the ring as well:blushing:

Does anyone know if this is caused by the exhaust gases being deflected off the timber and back on to the saw - would longer dogs/bucking spikes help? Is it down to the heat retained within the exhaust - making the muffler less restrictive may help - dual port? Or does the exhaust push exhaust gases on to the handle? Once we have this info, a fix can be defined - we have to remember that this is a safety device and any modification may get you in to deep water if there is an accident:thumbdown: