spudulike

The things Gardenkit looks at in his spart time:blushing: Is one on your Christmas list??

And it is that reason why many couriers have saws on their prohibited lists - what an idiot:001_rolleyes: I think sending it back makes a lot of sense and ebay generally protect the purchaser!

You had better pull on the Arbtalk T shirt for that Rich, good on you to give up your time for this worthy cause. Dangerous and tough job but hope it works out for you and you get out what you are obviously putting in and I mean that you will get out a sense of teamwork, goodwill, camaraderie etc Well done

A real difficult one, the seller should have made you aware that the saw had no serial numbers, it may have been stolen at sometime in its past, logic would tell you this. I guess if the police can't put the saw back in the hands of the legit owner then you should be happy to use it but it may effect resale value. Bit of a sod though, I had to inform a member on this site that his saw had no serials on it - he hadn't known in all the years he had owned it:blushing:

Top man Barrie, nice idea and good luck with the venture:thumbup:

Sorry, bit far out, he is in the Hitchin area - good luck anyway.

On the MS200Ts, I believe the owner may want to sell some or all of them, PM me if you are interested and I will forward your interest. They may well end up on Arbtrader over the next few weeks!

Had a Stihl back pack blower in, it was supposed not to start....three pulls later:001_rolleyes: I think these machines are throwing in the towel and running before I get the spanners out:lol: Anyway, gave it a going over, the carb was filthy as were the pre filter and air filter. Checked the tank vent, stripped and cleaned the inside of the carb, the throttle cable was a bit catchy so oiled it and then tuned the carb - all good, starts and runs fine - all good!

Number 5 MS200T, last one I can salvage from the magic blue bag, all cleaned up, pressure check and vac check proved the seals, impulse and inlet boot are fine, needs a new sprocket. The carb is now modded and it runs and idles fine.

Kick the dog and he always barks:lol:

Where in Herts are you, my dad has had a gas leak and is waiting for a plumber to fix it so is on his log burner only - may need another load soon....every bit helps!

It is usual to have a mix of oil and fuel around the piston, if you are seeing the brown colour of the piston below the rings, this is blow by and is reasonably usual on higher hour machines, it is caused by the exhaust gases colouring the piston below the rings. It is better if the piston is clean as it means the piston is sealing properly but as long as you have decent compression, wouldn't worry about it!

Bob H is a good guy, sure there will be no issues:thumbup:

I think it smells kinda nice:thumbup: use it to soften up the crap before using the compressor to blow the crud off!

You will need to get a pressure gauge on it Rich, often they look fine and I use a magnifying glass to see the tell tale ridge on the needle if leaking. Also this sort of problem can be caused by the incorrect diaphragm being fitted - had this on an MS200T fitted with a diaphragm with a thicker than normal central rivet - it was holding the metering arm/needle valve open. An incorrect set metering arm could also cause it. Good luck - RNLI - good cause:thumbup:

Barrie - you know too much M8:lol: You are spot on, this one had a rubber plug that hid the adjustment that I tweaked. Martin had a quick lesson when he picked it up:thumbup: The machine is around 8 years old and is in good nick and never given problem - the lavetera in the back garden is now a bit smaller:blushing:

No, thats GT85, a general purpose WD40 like lubricant that also makes a good cleaner and crud softner:thumbup: I quite like the smell, sort of fragrant:thumbup: Did you get the machine that was playing up again sorted, if not, get it back to me and I will do it free of charge....and make it smell nice:lol:

Took the words right out of my mouth - good advice and a good quick way to check for this fault:thumbup: Someone has been listening to me, gold star....top of the class:lol:

The cleaning regime depends on what the saw is doing, I save the US cleaner for the real bad ones, it isn't a magic silver bullet but can sort persistant problems. I never use compressed air on carbs - a little bit harsh IMO. I strip the carb fully before soaking and the length of time depends on how bad I think the carb may be. I usually use white spirit as it works for me but does stink and there is a risk it will vapourise and ignight!

Now on the fith MS200T out of the magic blue bag in my porch:lol: No 4 was a right sod, the revs were going from normal to racing and then dying, a good long clean in the ultrasonic cleaner didn't help, sorted the accelerator pump which was worn and still the same. Located the fault as a leaking welch plug and now the saw idles and runs well:thumbup:

Had a Burrell afternoon, fixed his dads hedge trimmer as it was bogging down when revved, had a slide carb rather than the typical chainsaw butterfly valve type and the needle needed a slight tweak, all good now. Also put anew port in his 298XP, the existing one was burning the wood he was cutting - the large hole is where the original exhaust outlet was and now needs a blanking plate fitted!

Sorry, had to be done:blushing: Good band though:thumbup:

I would say if it is YOUR bench and only used by you then as long as you can find tools damn quick then being tidy isn't paramount. If the bench is shared then my one would probably be a nightmare for most:lol: With mine, I have a Stanley tool trolley full of plumbers grips, metal cutters, chisels etc, on top of it is the tray with pliers, scwrenches, files, pullers, hammers, mallets etc, all with the handles facing me then behind the vice to the left I have sockets, T bars, torx bits, long reach sockets etc......works for me - When I strip saws down......that is when I am tidy - aerosol caps for bolts for each part, paper cups for all carb bits and a selection of plastic containers so all the parts are contained together - all logical and tidy:thumbup:

I think you had better change your user name if you dont know:blushing::lol: Get a straight edge, lay it across the carb body where the diaphragm usually sits, and the metering arm should be either 0.3mm under it up to being level with it!

Oh man, here we go again, just need our West Country fella to throw Dolmar in to the pot:001_rolleyes::lol: On the Husky side, 346XP, 357XP, 365, 372XP these are all pro saws, very capable and spares damn easy as Arb types have been using them for years and they also share many parts with other models - all will cut as much wood as you are likely to burn in a year and reliably. You will be able to use the first two all day as they are light and powerful, the other two are more for ringing up. Stihl - the previously mentioned 026/MS260, the MS261 has a few issues with crankshaft sprocket ends so would personally would steer clear - others may disagree! MS440 is a solid option - I am not as famillier with the Stihl range though. My personal choice - get a tidy 357XP - light, powerful, will take 15" - 20" bar and has very good AV systems - these Huskys are one of the few models that don't bounce and move about when running on hard standing - very impressive saws! If you are doing more ringing type cutting then the 365 is one bullet proof saw:thumbup: