spudulike

You would need stupid compression to stop and engine firing - I have had saws up to 230psi and they work just fine - I guess you would be looking at much over that but TBH, the engine would probably still run. Cranking it over may become an issue if too stupid:lol:

Take a piece of aluminium, form it to shape and then attach it with JB weld and two self tappers - should do the job!

Well that makes you trigger:lol: Wanna buy a new one - no income tax no VAT no money back no Guarantee

My washer is on the 6th set of brushes, the pump has been rebuilt, the main control board fried so I rebuilt the pcb with fuse wire and it has just had a new heating element - think itis around 18 years old.....bosch:lol: Yes - I fix pretty much anything people throw at me:lol:

No worries Mr T, I will soon have your baby singing sweetly:thumbup:

If that is you in the pic, it looks like a 50cc ground saw is in order. I say this as they are small and light so won't kill your back and arms with use over an hour! Not being sexist but know what the wife would say if I gave here a big felling saw to use:blushing: .....and I often grab a 346XP for a bit of logging! These small saws are pretty powerful in a good way and will go through typical 12 - 18" timber pretty damn quick. If you are buying secondhand then a decent late model 346XP is hard to beat - budget around the £300-350 mark. If you are looking to purchase new and perhaps own the saw 5-10 years then the 550XP is the latest Husqvarna and is a fine machine. You will find that both these saws have very good Anti Vibration systems - the 346XP is one of the few saws I know that when left running on hard standing, don't spin and walk away:lol: The MS261 is a bit like marmite - some have had bad experiences of having crank/clutch problems and some love it.....not got experience of these saws....yet! Now prepare yourself for the Stihl/Husky war:001_rolleyes:

Worth a try - thought the Swedes would be more flexible than our German friends:001_rolleyes: Looks like it is back to mittens for Chris!

It depends on the model on both saws. Stihl generally use hooked end traditional springs - you have the inboard and outboard models. On Huskys you can have the long single spring type, the flat spring type like on the 346/357 etc and then the same ones as many Stihls - some are inboard some outboard. Some clutches are bitches to remove, some are easy - I guess the Stihl ones are very generally easier to replace! Is it easy? Depends on how good you are but remember clockwise to remove!

Perhaps we can run the exhaust through the handle:lol: That will keep the hands warm! Have you tried some of the dealers on this site - they may try a little harder to get the saw in for you! You may get a member asking about the ported 372- if he does then give a honest opinion on it if you wouldn't mind.

Speaking from the non arb day job, it may just be down to product overlap or just trying ot rationalise product offerings in different countries. The UK, despite the windchill this morning:blushing:, isn't that cold so fewer customers would buy the more expensive "G" model saw, if they don't sell a certain volume in to the UK market then they will only import a few select models with heated handles and anyone wanting warm mitts will be drawn to this model! You may find your local dealer can import one on special order - or perhaps one of the dealers on here may be able to get one??? The only differences are the flywheel having a magnet, the coil mounted behind the flywheel, the ancillary wiring, the switch and the heated lifting front handle and the rear handle module! Companies like to sell volume products...... support in parts, stock of the item etc costs everyone money:thumbdown:

It's Tunbridge Wells Kent or Tonbridge Kent - two different places 4 miles away from each other - common mistake and no offence meant:001_rolleyes:

With the murmerings of another boys day out sawfest, thought I had better sort out my 181SE, at the last one, it lost power and revs after a bit of cutting. I had found the breather was blocked which helped a little, I popped off the carb and bingo, the L speed venturi jets were gummed up, gave it a soak in the ultrasonic cleaner and they opened up fine. Also popped off the cylinder to open up the transfers, something I hadn't done when I pulled and ported it a few months back. Cylinder is now back on and the carb wil be tomorrow night:thumbup: Will test it out next weekend!

No Worries Ed, when you are ready:thumbup:

I think I know a hen that has teeth:001_rolleyes: As Rich says, is the bore of the cylinder truly buggered (scored, gouged or chipped ports) or is it just aluminium transfer? Get a pic up if you can!

Possibly, It looks as though there should be a plastic protrusion that goes in to a rubber buffer in the cavity under the oil tank. It is possible to do some reconstructive work or just source and fit a new handle! Did this once on an MS880: -

The meteor piston is about the same width of skirt all the way up and I believe, will seal the piston if you have used the lower skirt of the standard piston as your guide. It is all easy until you get in to the detail:blushing:

You need a 2mm overlap of skirt to port otherwise you will get leakage that may cause issues. The 064 with its standard piston doesn't allow for much widening of the port - just my take on the saw:thumbup1: Oh - Bevel those new edges otherwise you will snag a ring!!!

Looks salvageable to me, the only suspect area I can see is marked as below: -

Some say this game is easy, the MS390 I have in bits tells me it isn't. I purchased it seized, took it apart and the top cover has a decomp gromet but no decomp on the cylinder:confused1: - The cylinder must have been changed! Got the cylinder clean, piston in and guess what - big air leak on the clutch side - that is why the saw failed the first time and then someones previous repair failed.....bloody amateurs:lol: Just shows you the importance of doing the relevant checks! Hate repairing these saws - fiddly little frakers:001_rolleyes:

Well I hope you know what you are doing and have taken in to account of the below - the two big scallops out of both sides of the piston skirt on the exhaust side:blushing:

So you are off to Royston are you:laugh1: I believe it is the same as a number of McCulloch saws - spring part No - 530027531 If you look at the recoil cover then it will look similar to many other McCulloch and Poulan saws - it doesn't appear to share the spring from the 235e:thumbdown: If you get really stuck let me know - may have one in the collection!

Yeah, as Wolfman Ed says:thumbup:

Firstly, if you are using a deent quality oil then the mix will be 50:1 and if you are using 25:1 then that is the cause for the smoke. As far as carb tuning goes, set bith screws to 1 turn out from fully in and then set the idle speed. I usually then screw in the L screw slowly, the revs will pick up and then start to die, turn the screw out past the maximum revs and as the saw revs start to drop, the note gets sort of poppy and nice sounding. I leave the L screw there, adjust the idle and then rev it out and see how it picks up etc. If it sounds fine, I leave the L screw there and use a tach to get correct max revs! There you go:thumbup:

Looks like a good deal for a near new saw. It isn't a pro saw but up to cutting a bit of firewood - worth buying IMO. The oiler problem mentioned before will probably be the arm slipping around the pinion gear - simple fix:thumbup:

Hells teeth Barrie, that van is cleaner than your bench - did you have a sex change at some time in your life....it aint natural:lol: