spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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A rush job last night, a non starting 357XP and an MS261 with a chain sharpened by a novice - both were needed urgently. the 357XP was dry, the fuel line looked a bit iffy and had been asked for it to be changed plus the recoil rope was worn and felt horrible, fitted the new recoil rope - cleaned the cover and pulley, fitted the new fuel line and cleaned the carb in my NEW ultrasonic cleaner - has a built in heater and is powerful enough to blow holes in tin foil:thumbup: After re-assembly it ran fine, the chain on the MS261 was ground sharp - not bad - in at 5.00pm and ready by 11.30pm - thats service:thumbup:
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Yes, burping inflammable petrol fumes is no fun, especially if you smoke:blushing:
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Re ported 361 has anyone have one thanks all
spudulike replied to mendiplogs's topic in General chat
God loves a trier Jon:thumbup1: -
I acquired one of these 52cc beasts, one thing I noticed that on near full tilt, the chain brake didn't stop the chain dead-something that does happen on the vast majority of Husqvarnas and Stihls etc that I have serviced/used. The construction of the chain brake and cover was pretty crap to be honest and I have seen many saws including some of the B&Q/Ryobi/Homelite saws and this one was....well crap:001_rolleyes: The starter pulley was.......crap - no other word for it, the guide came out of the recoil cover so the rope wore a slot in the cover and also the pulley started to crack. TBH, faced with one of these or an old Husky Rancher, I know what I would choose every time! both would cost around the same money but the Rancher would still be worth £100 in 5 years time:thumbup: Just my first hand opinion from someone with 30 years engineering experience and a few years chainsaw maintenance under my belt!
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ebay is probably your best bet, not got a handle worth pulling in my stock - sorry.
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The OP may have been purchasing it for resale for profit or just thought it a bargain and had no idea how big a real 395 actually is:lol:- agreed it is a big saw for someones first saw - the seller was trying it on, he got found out and that is good for all. Think it all ended well:thumbup:
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You can do this, you need very soft rubber pipe - I usually put it on to the H screw fuel inlet under the diaphragm and seal the H screw hole. You should find it easier to blow than suck if you know what I mean and don't swallow:blushing::lol:
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Just checked - it has an 8 pin rim on it - you have two options, an extra link or fit a 7 pin rim!
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I have had this on a couple of saws, one when I got one link to few:blushing: and the other when I fitted an 8 pin rim when 7 was standard.
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Agreed, that is why I was taking the piss out of the piss takers:lol: We all know what a 395XP will look like on this site- to the uninitiated, they don't know there are fake machines out there and take them at face value. The OP recognized that the price was far too good to be right - and right he was. Shows a bit of common sense in this respect! Hopefully he will be good enough to let us know the outcome of his purchase.
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That second saw looks like a fake to me, you sure it is a real one - send it over and I will give it a thorough examination:lol: Just told the misses she is driving an Audi TT - got a strange look:lol:
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The Stihl guys think so:001_rolleyes: I haven't had anything fall off mine but if an owner says they have trouble with loose bolts, I use a bit of thread lock to retain them! Typically the exhaust bolts are usually damn tight!
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All I know is that Stihl sting you for what you can get from the carb manufacturer for 1/3rd of the price:thumbdown: I do what Barrie does:thumbup:
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Not really my sort of thing but would expect 140psi using a Gunson Hi gauge with the engine fuelled and NOT dry!
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Measure the compression - could be teetering on the edge of oblivion:lol: Also check the fuel tank vent - they can give similar issues if a vacuum is formed. If neither of these, give the carb a good going over.
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Fixed a local guys 066 and came back a few days later saying it was running crap and smoking badly:blushing: Fired it up and man it smoked, fluid flowing out of the exhaust smelt like diesel. Checked it all out and in the end changed the fuel and all was good:thumbup: Reckon the fuel he had got had a shot of diesel in it and the saw was burning off the petrol and leaving the diesel unburnt - Garages:001_rolleyes: Not good news in your case though.
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????? Check valve - get a picture and put an arrow as to what you mean. If you are looking at the parts list, the check valve is the brass doofer in the venturi choke of the carb that expells the petrol vapour on full tilt. It is refered to as a check valve rather than a jet as it has a one way valve in it - a jet doesn't!
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My take on it in my own personal situation is you hit the easy bits first - insulate walls, roof cavity, and windows. This will be a long term solution with almost zero upkeep - retain the heat in the house. We got our house walls insulated for £100 - some Government initiative and IMO - well worth the dosh. I collect free wood and would imagine many on here are similar - keeping the log burner fired up in the winter makes a lot of sense - I have contemplated getting a secondary log burner in but fitted with a back boiler to assist the oil fed boiler - to me that more sense. The ground fed heat exchangers look more interesting to me - using the inherent heat from the earths surface to heat your house - know nothing on their efficiency though!
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M6 X 1.0mm ....not sure about the length of them - take the other out and measure it:001_rolleyes:
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Go careful on the 044 - did a 440 recently - Stihl didn't leave much on the inlet and exhaust port - the piston windows can be opened up and there is much to do in the transfers!
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I Usually widen both the inlet and exhaust port - the exhaust port gets squared up a little but not so much it could snag a ring. The inlet got squared a tad but not that much TBH. When you tach a saw in this state of tune, you generally get some heavy fourstroking at the point where the saw normally maxed out - this allows higher max revs and more power:thumbup:
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The two main ones are M6 allens, the rest are M5 allens, the M6 will be 1mm thread, the M5 will be 0.8mm!
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Been working on a 372XP - bit of porting. First thing to notice is the Feck off bad boy muffler and the second - the high rise airfilter - nice:thumbup: I half expected to see this already ported once apart but it wasn't. Opened up the inlet and exhaust, modified the transfers considerably, dropped the base gasket then did all the necessary pressure and vac tests - all fine after cleaning the leaky decomp! Very worth doing these no need tuning a leaky saw! All looks good, fired right up and will now tach on a 24" as per the usual bar of choice by the customer.
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Infinitree did me a big favour last year so just doing the same for another member - anyway, I think you work for Geoff and I know him so.......... Just let me know what works!
