spudulike

You got a white cat you stroke and a bent on world wide domination ....Barrie Blofeld.....got a ring to it:lol:

Too many cooks around here:lol:.......and not a cake in sight:lol:

The carb is dry but the saw will run with fuel put down it. That means that there is enough compression for ignition, the dry carb means that the impulse circuit is not pulling fuel up from the tank. The pumping of fuel from the tank is done by the pressure and vacuum in the crankcase - this carries on working even with poor compression - it is the lack of compression that stops the fuel being drawn from the carb in to the engine - be clear on that - it is important. Long and short - if the carb hasn't got fuel in the pumping section then it is an impulse problem, if there is fuel in the pumping section but NOT the diaphragm metering part then it is a metering arm problem. The scores - if the scores are not in the cylinder above the exhaust port and the scores DON'T go through the rings then you will make compression - maybe not as good as a decent piston but probably enough for ignition. Get a pic up of the piston - it isn't your problem from what you have described so far but worth a look at - a deep score to you may be a bit of carbon damage to anyone else:thumbup:

Holed impulse line, holed fuel line, blocked gauze filter in the carb or poorly adjusted metering arm in the carb.

Increase flow of fuel/oil vapour from the crankcase in to the transfers - larger windows, greater flow!

One tries:thumbup: Thanks

Been porting a big bad boy Stihl 084 today, Did a muffler mod - drilled the holes in the internal baffle plate, it already has a couple of decent size outlets so put another in the front cover - gives the option of fitting a standard front plate if working in built up areas. Exhaust port opened, inlet port gave very little, transfers re-profiled and opened up, custom base gasket fitted. Presure and vac tested 100% perfect, carb put through the US cleaner and will fit a new carb kit as it is going over to Aspen. I also ported the windows in the piston - doesn't show much but they are at least 1mm wider and taller.

You can get poor starting if the fast idle catch isn't holding the throttle open enough - this will make starting a cold saw a right bitch. Easy enough to diagnose, after making the saw pop on the choke, engage the fast idle - usually by pulling the choke out and pushing it in - start the machine and it should rev up pretty fast before you grab the throttle to release it. If it doesn't rev up much, you will need to tweak the carb linkage so it gets held open more - it is possible the L screw is a tad rich and that may make starting an issue.

Just change the decomp valve - been pulling over an 084 today and not using the decomp, not quite as bad as a 076 or 298 Husky but the 460 should pull over reasonably easy but depends on your build and strength. Easy enough job but long reach sockets make the job easier:thumbup1:

Not a bad price - hope they did the right checks on the saw and tached it? Hope it works out for you - they are decent pro saws and cut fast when set up right.

Didn't know the serial number bit:blushing: Knew the change of piston diameter as I had a blown 44mm one a couple of years back and had to fix it! Thanks anyway:thumbup:

The 026 lives, been cutting some big timber with it, seems to work OK:thumbup: Now for porting the 084:thumbup:

I knew that as well Thanks Barrie:001_tt2:

I won't ask how you found that out - a set of verniers is a useful workshop addition:001_rolleyes: I did know of the difference in bore size - just Stihl competing with the 346XP changing from 45cc to 50cc, I know there were some changes in the design of the 024 on crank stroke but am thinking the 026/260 never changed but will fit the MS260 top end on today after checking the length of the cylinder......with my verniers:lol: and check the squish is OK. Will fit the carb off the MS260 as the bore may be slightly different and the job should be a good un:thumbup: Cheers for the suggestions anyway but I am already in the zone:thumbup1:

Yeah, I met my Waterloo a few months back, I was on the point of jacking Arbtalk in down to another members inappropriate postings.....then slept on it and gave my Nemesis both barrels knowing it may get me a ban! Gotta say that the support I got was heart warming and I am still around:thumbup:

Report it to the police and ebay, if your machine happens to get damaged next month, you will have your crime number from the police and they will call upon him - may not get him done but will stick the willys up im:laugh1: Only had one mail off another seller on ebay pointing out I hadn't said a chainsaw was a model without a chainbrake - don't know what business it was of his but I pointed out that I had it stated in both the listing and the link to the spec. You live and die by your customer service - you are using a marketing technique of comparing your load with a possible load from another - nothing wrong with that - I often say that you can take your chances on ebay from an unknown seller and buy a saw from them or buy one off me and get service after the sale and for around the same price - choice is yours - thats competition. In short - he is a bellend and doesn't like your sales techniques - how he will steal all your custom I don't know......price wars benefit no one! Report him and get it on record - may be worth letting him know as well so he won't be tempted to fook with you or your machine!

Started on a 026 lacking power and generally a bit flat - sounds like me on a good day:lol: Found the plug looked like it was overheating as it was a graphite grey colour and found the saw had been lean seized but was still running! The H screw was on 1/2 turn:001_rolleyes: I have a spare parts MS260 with this saw so am robbing parts off it - reckon the cylinder may fit and will try it tomorrow. The needle sprocket bearing is also shot and the oiler drive arm has snapped at some time!

That cake looks damn tempting:lol: Got the MS200 running - just need to order a new oiler gear as the original had started to melt due to ingress of woodchip - the rest looks OK and comp is damn good: -

Let us know what the angry people say:lol: just for the record:thumbup:

No worries - you live and learn - some in the cold as there saw is knackered and they can't cut firewood:lol: Hope it goes well, so glad you asked:thumbup:

Yes, it is bloody (sorry mods) important - it always points toward the exhaust port unless you buy hooky Chinese ones where it can point anywhere. The ring ends and location pin should be toward the inlet (Carb side) Get this wrong and you are very likely to snag a ring in the exhaust port:blushing:

Now theres an idea:thumbup:

Something is well out here - the chain will either be low profile 3/8" or 0.325", Measure how many cutters you have per 100mm - if it is 0.325 you will have four, if it s 3/8 you will have 3.

Thats a picture of domestic bliss....whats this about me coming second....how things change:001_rolleyes: Cake.....nice:thumbup:

I'm going on holiday:lol: