spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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<p>Hi Ty, now trimmers are not my speciallity but if me, I would look at the gearbox and also the tightness of the cutters - they can come loose and vibrate a bit or possibly it has god a bit hot and the gearbox grease has thined and come out. Just check the tightness of the cutters, the gearbox etc - if that fails - see if Gardenkit has any gems - I have done a few trimmers but mostly carb and engine work.</p>
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<p>Cheers</p>
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<p>Steve</p>
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Those aren't contacts Rich- just magnets and the laminated steel core of the coil that picks up the change in magnetism to generate the HT - worth making sure it is relatively clean but they don't do any contacting matey:001_tt2:
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The black plug suggests that the saw is running rich - lean it up on the H screw - it should be around 1 turn out - if it is this then check the airfilter is clean and if it is, lean it down 1/6th turn and try it again. The coil may be on the way out but worth resetting the coil to flywheel gap by using a thin business card between the flywheel and coil and loosening the bolts and allowing the coil to stick to the magnet and doing them back up. Try that for starters:thumbup:
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bosch electric chainsaws - do you rate them
spudulike replied to Paul in France's topic in Chainsaws
Electric chainsaws are a way to cut wood without pissing off the people next door but the main drawback is that you can't go out and haul wood in from friends, family, farmers, out of ditches etc if the timber is away from a power socket. If you are lucky enough to have people dump 4" to 10" wood on your doorstep then they are a good way to process a bit of domestic firewood. I have used the bosch saw - seemed OK to me - bit fiddly on chain adjustment but did the job OK. -
Always amazes me that no one apears to take this inner cover off ever and then wonder why this bar and the leafspring break and why the chain brake is so mushy:001_rolleyes: Never mind, it is only a safety device - all my services get this part cleaned and repaired where necessary:thumbup: Including yours Ed!
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Side cover off, remove inner plate held in place by two small T25 screws. Put the brake on, remove the brake band and spring - best wear safety specs. Lift the handle off on end of the tie bar along with the steel hinge mechanism from the other end of the tie bar. Remove all the crap that has built up - check the tie bar isnt broken in two - make sure the leaf spring is in one piece. Slide the steel hinge mech back in to the handle end and line th eholes up, thread the mechanism in the handle, back in to the side cover and locate both on to the tie bar, refit the brake band, refit the spring and then refit the cover - take the brake off before screwing it down as it catches on the front screw. When fitting the handle you will need to push the leaf spring downwards so it clips in to place and also make sure the semi circle bit on the inner side cover clips under the semi circular strip near where the handle goes in. If it doesn't clip in tight, I use a heatgun to bend the side cover top in a bit until it clips in good and tight - most won't know or care about this but the handle will flop from side to side if not corrected and is usually damaged by operators not fitting the cover on the saw properly:001_rolleyes:
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I try to turn most kit round in two weeks - sometimes a tall order and never make idle promises - two weeks seems pretty fair to me - the local guys I know have had kit back in 12hrs before now - haven't they Matty:lol:
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I did three saws that came in from three guys once Ben, Joe and I think Tom, the next three were Tom Dick and Harry and it has sort of stuck - these two were Bob and Bill - just makes identification easier for me:lol:
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<p>No Idea - fit it and either tach it to make sure all is ok or do some mid size cuts and check the colour of the spark plug - a coffee brown colour is fine but white or graphite grey is bad.</p>
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<p>Not something I have done before!</p>
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<p>Goodluck</p>
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<p>Steve</p>
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Busy weekend, the ported 084, 026 and MS200t went back ot theit owner, started on a couple of dodgy running MS200Ts that I had in, did the normal checks, found a dodgy crank seal on one - looked OK at first but when the crank was rotated, it dropped 2psi so fitted a new one along with clutch springs as two had failed. The other one had a broken brake band and tie bar pluss the inner side case had a big hole in it so cleaned out loads of wood chip and will fit new ones. Both carbs were boiled for an hour in the US cleaner and both idle perfectly now: -
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It happens - the MS200 can be a fiddly machine to work on and have a few known issues but are good machines and pesonally find them pretty easy to work on and fix - it is the first few that are difficult - after that....no problems:thumbup:
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TBH - not done one for a long while but Gardenkit (Barrie) has a post a page or two earlier on how it is removed. The worm drive pinnion is removed by pulling off the sprocket and clutch and that was the part I recently found to be faulty on one I had in!
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I would say that any change to the air filter would need a tach tune to make sure the saw isnt over revving or running a bit rich. I did recently tach a MS200 without an air filter and then with and it made a 1,000 rpm difference at top revs. It all depends on how the 880 was tuned in the first place - if it was my £900 saw I know what I would do:thumbup:
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If you get a more efficient filter that lets more air through then you must tune for fourstroking at the top end and also use a tach to log max revs - luckily with a muffler mod, it is damn easy to hear the thumping at the top end:thumbup:
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Sounds a little less conservative than Martins fruitcake but still acceptable as payment collateral:thumbup:
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Sometimes the oiler worm drive arm rotates around the plastic gear it sits on - it should be a semi tight fit and only slip if the worm drive locks up - fitting a new one is relatively easy if it is this:thumbup:
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I get the feeling that you will see this saw on my bench soon - whats the wifes cake baking like Alec:lol: Ah - just read it is fixed...all good!
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Just breaking out the CD of whale noises, waves crashing on beaches and....stuff it Kashmir - Led Zeppelin......lets rock - full port job, muff mod and tach it to destruction:thumbup:
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Simplest way to check the flow is to run the saw up and tach it with the standard filter - repalce it with a special one and see if it lifts the top end revs - if it does then it will have a positive effect. Funny - I was thinking about doing this on my 357XP - well...it has been ported, pop up piston, muffler mod....got to tweak the ignition timing and why not do the air filter:lol:
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<p>Hi Rick</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Firstly do not use a screw in type stop - it will damage the engine. The double ended plastic Stihl ones are pretty good and less than a fiver - they look a bit like a dogs bone!</p>
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<p>Other than that, rotate the pison in and upwards direction by turning the clutch in a clockwise motion so the exhaust port is covered - put recoil rope down the bore so it fills the cavity and then turn the clutch clockwise so the rope is compressed and eventually locks up. Both methods are safe - I have used both methods although I find the stihl plastic stop very good - just make sure it sits between the piston and the squish band (hard up against the cylinder wall) for best operation. </p>
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<p>The clutch spins off clockwise and may need a bit of grunt with a decent tommy bar and socket to shift it.</p>
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<p>Good luck</p>
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<p>Steve</p>
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A blast even:lol:
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Thanks Ray:thumbup: this one has me intrigued, it is good sometimes to get something that tests your skills rather than the "same old same old"....
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Give it some in the cut but on the first few tanks, let the heat dissipate before the next prolonged cut. Light but fast cuts are supposed to be best as it allows the engine to bed in quickly before glaze builds up.
