spudulike

Technically if the diaphragm was holed, you would get half teaspoon full of fuel out when left standing and that would be it! The needle valve however, if that was leaking then if the tank had positive pressure (most do) the fuel would be pushed through the carb and run in to the engine. The easy check for this is to attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pipe connector and look for leakage - it should hold pressure! Has the piston been checked by removing the exhaust? Other than that - the carb may need a retune if the saw is reasonably new and is running in! Stihl will set the carb a tad lean to reach emmission rules but better settings that may give slow pickup when run in.

I have been through the pain barrier and come out the other side, got to a point where I told the guy to do one.......and he did and another who was being inflammatory. Admin were a tad slow but got there in the end:thumbup: All I can say is that we have some good banter on the chainsaw forum - thats where us techs hang out and the mix between piss taking and serious help is spot on! I get loads of thanks for the help I have given and to me, that is what the forum is about - sharing the info and love not trying to belittle others!

Its all right you saying calm down - I had two nights lack of sleep:lol: up all night, pacing about, delving deep in to my knowledge to come to the correct solution!

Metering arms out of the packet are not set.......with the 026 carb, it is set either with the Walbro Golden Gauge or with a straight edge over the LOWER flats of the diaphragm chamber either side of where the metering arm sits. I remembered after you had picked it up that the arm was a little low and I did reset it - not 100% sure it was the issue but I know it can be!

Sorry to piss on the fireworks but can't stand the suspense of another 3 day episode like the MS200T:001_rolleyes: Just pull the carb out, whip the diaphragm cover off, pull of the diaphragm, bend the metering arm so it is in line with the carb cover, reassemble and it will start:thumbup: Alec - just remembered - I did this to yours as part of the going over:thumbup1:

Hi...Mr thicky here - I stare at the saw and the saw stares back at me.......so I boil its bits in me ultrasonic cleaner - there that learnt him:lol: What are AVs anyway -guess Audio Visuals??? Everybody knows Husqvarna have the best AV mounts:001_tt2:

The carb is now cleaned on the Stihl hedge trimmer, sharpened it, repacked the gearbox with grease and it purrs like a kitten:thumbup:

I personally can't imagine any dealer or service centre will have the equipment to test vibration levels - sure, the manufacturer will and specialist measurement organisations such as British Standards, MIRA and many specialist Universities but the average tech......No! I would of course change AV mounts on customers request and it isn't a problem to do so and also understand the importance that the AV mounts. There are other influences on vibration such as engine wear, bar wear, chain sharpness and condition, chain depth gauge maintenance, sprocket wear so AV isn't the total picture! I believe the council run teams will have a duty of care and H&S procedures but many smaller run organisations will have less controls and procedure in place! From much of the kit I see, many pros use their saws till they die and then worry about getting it fixed - chain brake mechs on MS200Ts are 80% of the time, unserviced, full of crud and not as sharp as the manufacture intended - not sure which is the bigger issue AV or brakes! So, in short - I replace if damaged, I replace on customer request otherwise I leave them as they are which I would think most repair centres will do.

You would probably need to use a very hot knife to fold in melted plastic - many epoxy resins degrade with fuel and are not suitable to use for repair. Make sure the repair is a solid one as leaking fuel is obviously a fire hazzard!

Hells teeth mate - what are those workers up to, are they female, what are those vibrating tools and does it iunclude mud and waders:lol: How do I get a job there:thumbup:

Nah mattey, went to bed:lol: Bum holes to you to - still mates though! Been fixing up a hedge trimmer - the choke has been gaffer taped half open to keep the engine running, it has been thrown of the top of a hedge......why do they do that.....I know, the engine doesn't work so I will bend up the cutters and fook the handle - there, thats sorted it! The carb needs a clean and the cutters sharpened, fixed the fractured handle with a steel plate and two 4mm bolts - bent the sheet in to a tight fitting "U" shaped plate, epoxy resined the thing in place and finally clamped it with two bolts:thumbup:

Aardvark???

I will pull the engine around while holding the handle, inspect for rips,cracks and breaking away from the steel mounts but do not change them unless faulty. I try to get a saw back in to decent working order and not get excessive with the spare parts - anything broken, damaged or faulty gets swapped out!

Is that a bowl of curry Barrie - no rice or naan??

Got a Stihl backpack blower on the bench, recoil spring busted, needs a damn good clean but the compression is good, as far as the spring let me test it. Got a Stihl hedge trimmer up next, will take a look at that and get an order in for parts. A siezed Jonnie 2171 is also on its way.....all go as usual!

Who is that masked fella:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYGe0WL24Y4]Jonsered 621 - YouTube[/ame]

Rich - get the verniers on the piston and measure across it and also in line with the inlet and exhaust port. Also measure the thickness of the skirt - middle and outer bottom. Measure the top ring thickness middle and ends - that is the depth that goesa in to the ring groove! Must be something there! Possible that transfer damaged the rings or just wore them unevenly!

Whohheeyy - all good news tonight - the knocking noise must have been your knees:lol: Glad it is running OK.....and your towels now smell of chainsaw fuel:001_rolleyes:

Well done Rich, really glad you sorted it, you can get a good seal sometimes on a cold engine but as soon as it starts running, the piston gets warm, the fuel mix gets thin around the piston and pop, it starts to play up and then won't restart. Thanks for the praise, this is a good thread to bring the techies together and teach some of the less initiated on how to resolve issues - seen you get better at what you do since coming on here:thumbup: Meteor saves the day...again - told you they were good:thumbup1: