spudulike

Following on from Rich's good advice, the MS200Ts/020Ts seals go very hard with age and sometimes seem fine under pressure/vacuum unless you rotate or pull on the crankshaft where air is either pulled in or evacuates fast. I rotate the crank and if I get a slight drop in ne place, pull the sjaft about in this position to check the seal. As far as the bearings go, the MS200 bearings are a bit strange - like a heavy duty needle roller bearing where the needle roller runs on the crank. They normally have a tiny bit of play that a typical ball race simply won't have. This is typical of the type of bearing and is usual. On MS200s, where operators have over tightened the chain regularly, the clutch side bearing can develop a bit of play, this can result in a bit of tapping from the crank that isn't that bad and then in time, a heavier rattle at idle speeds. If the saw idles and sounds sweet, then you have no issues, if the saw taps at idle then it may need doing in time but TBH, it will last a good while longer. If it really rattles, it is a case of measuring up the crank and replacing the bearing and possibly the crank if it measures low on the bearing contact area. They are easy to work on and easy to split and drive out the bearings - just replace the things if the saw knocks a bit more than is healthy!

If you really get stuck.........I am a courier away:lol: I am really interested with this one - I have a nagging feeling that the flywheel being two years old is OK! I am thinking coil to flywheel gap or coil to HT lead, coil to plug cap is the issue here - unless both coils are dud and if both are OEM Stihl - it is unlikely the new one won't work! I reckon the angry men are angry at their own lack of ability:blushing:

Yes - very good cause, my neighbour is a keen sailor out of Southampton and his daughter did the Global yacht challenge a few years back and he is keen supporter!

Those fancy pullers are useless on MS200/020T seals, I use a pointed awl and mallet, press the awl on the outer seal and belt the handle with the mallet - these seals usually shatter and can then be removed relatively easily. Don't know how others do it but it works for me and well - just make sure any fine bits don't get in to the bearing. Seals....done:lol:

The critical area is the cylinder bore above the top part of the exhaust port - that part makes compression - that score looks a little nasty - if it is in the compression zone and you can feel it, the cylinder may be scrap!

I'm worried Rich - most Huskys only have one ring:lol: Good work Re - the RNLI:thumbup:

Either purchase another one and fit a bolt through chain catcher or drill a new hole in the new one so a catcher can be fabricated/fitted. They are made of mild steel - no hardening there!

The oiler is mounted around the crankshaft behind the clutch assembly - generally fine woodchip is sucked past the pickup filter and ends up compacting in the oil pump inlet hole. I would pull off the clutch - it has a left hand thread so spins off clockwise!

Thats fine - I have noticed the old school big carbs pop off but the smaller modern ones don't at these pressures - what you have is OK!

No worries bud, not many do know this - most just know what the effect is without knowing why it happens:lol:

Yup - exactly as described - strip the kit out and shift the plug of wood chip if the pump is plugged - I do remember your breather was blocked though - you can see the little turd of crap I pushed from it: -

There looks to be a score on the left side of the inlet port - the exhaust port side doesn't look bad! If the inlet side is just a mark and not a score, it should be OK.

I am guessing that you have checked the oiler holes in the bar? I usually just pull the sprocket and clutch off, remove the oiler and clear the blockage with a bit of wire and a blast of WD40. Usually quicker in the long run!

Makes me wonder if someone has removed part of the vent causing it to leak?? It won't stop it working though! Have you checked the wires off the coil that go over the top AV mount - they can chafe and earth themselves cocking up your spark:thumbdown: Pull off theairbox cover and look at the wiring to the left hand side of the sparkplug!

Being serious:001_rolleyes: if you want to attract these colourful birds to your garden, feed them Nyjer seed - God alone knows how they find it but they do!

The mesh sounds like a spark arrestor - this is generally a steel mesh located over the exhaust outlet and is to stop pieces of burning carbon coming out of the muffler. Flames coming out of the exhaust....... Never seen that before - may just be incomplete combustion on and over rich mix - unburnt vapour finding its way in to the exhaust and igniting???

Four stroking........a two stroke fires and creates a power stroke on each crank cycle - a fourstroke does it every other cycle - hence the terms four stroke and two stroke - a stroke is an upwards or downwards movement of the piston. On chainsaws, they originally didn't have rev limiters to dictate maximum revs so manufacturers used the carb to set maximum revs. If the carb is leaned out too much, it over revs as it continues to fire on each stroke up to OMG revs:thumbdown: the result is a melted piston:thumbdown: What we do is to set the H screw so the saw goes to max specified revs and then starts to almost flood the saw on every other stroke by putting that much fuel in to the cylinder, it stops the spark plug sparking. When the saw is thumping when revved flat out, you are firing on every other stroke - the carb is acting as a rev limiter and the saw is acting like a fourstroke engine - as soon as you cut with the saw, the four stroking dies away due to the engine being under load and returns to firing on every stroke. The modern rev limiter does part of this job but the carb still needs to be set correctly and just gives an extra level of protection!

In my thinking, leave the L on around 3/4 turn and open up the H screw until you get the top end fourstroking - it should be 3/4 - 1 1/4 turn out, any less and you may seize the saw! You really need to know how you tune carbs to do all this as I find 026/024 a right pain to tune ....sometimes!

Cheers Andy, glad you are happy with my work:thumbup:

The top edge of the piston should be machined with a bit of carbon on the top but not rough looking -take a picture of it as it sounds like the saw has seized at some time and this can cause a rough edge. I guess someone may have put something in the exhaust port to stop the piston to remove the clutch - a real bad idea and this may have mullered the edge:confused1:

Try this - pull off the airbox cover and air filter and then start and do a cut with the saw - I have noticed that these saws can blow back a bit of fuel which can saturate the air filter causing unstable running! Only do a cut or two as you don't want the saw to ingest any dust but if you see excessive fuel vapour coming out of the carb but it works OK, try 3/4 turns on the H and L screw and try again with the filter on - this is what sorted the one I was working on! The leak on the fuel tank - look for missing plastic and cracks - other than that - turning the seal round the other way can work:thumbup:

You got a white cat you stroke and a bent on world wide domination ....Barrie Blofeld.....got a ring to it:lol:

Too many cooks around here:lol:.......and not a cake in sight:lol:

The carb is dry but the saw will run with fuel put down it. That means that there is enough compression for ignition, the dry carb means that the impulse circuit is not pulling fuel up from the tank. The pumping of fuel from the tank is done by the pressure and vacuum in the crankcase - this carries on working even with poor compression - it is the lack of compression that stops the fuel being drawn from the carb in to the engine - be clear on that - it is important. Long and short - if the carb hasn't got fuel in the pumping section then it is an impulse problem, if there is fuel in the pumping section but NOT the diaphragm metering part then it is a metering arm problem. The scores - if the scores are not in the cylinder above the exhaust port and the scores DON'T go through the rings then you will make compression - maybe not as good as a decent piston but probably enough for ignition. Get a pic up of the piston - it isn't your problem from what you have described so far but worth a look at - a deep score to you may be a bit of carbon damage to anyone else:thumbup:

Holed impulse line, holed fuel line, blocked gauze filter in the carb or poorly adjusted metering arm in the carb.