spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Mmmm, noticed that when you blip the throttle, it really does bark:thumbup:
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Think the next village may be complaining about this saw:lol:
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I am waiting for the fan mail to come round:lol: The bloke at the back don't like it up im Mr Barrie:001_rolleyes: been a complaining, can't understand why - thought I would give him something to whinge about:lol:
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Nice job Barrie:thumbup: Busy Saturday - Burrell dropped a load of big connie in my drive...thanks Martin - reason is that I had my ported Husky 181SE to test along with Stubbys 372XP (now ported) and my brothers blower, Stubbys 372XP is a weapon now - damn it is fast, the porting has brought it to life and appologies for the sound on one of the vids, it was that loud it sent my camera in to spasms:lol: [ame] [/ame] [ame] [/ame]
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Bloody hell -shes burstin out:biggrin: Had a long chat with the guys that designed the Gadget show six 3120Xp engined dragster - we were talking about porting it a little:thumbup: That was at the Christmas show at excel - I was there with the day job!
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Thats where the smart money is - what I do - force the spur through the HT lean and get a meter to check for continuity between the sparkplug top connector and the visible wires on the end of the HT lead! I have a couple of other things I do to make it easier to fit the boot but this is the area where you need to concentrate on:thumbup:
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You need to get the cylinder level and apply with a cotton bud - just to the affected areas. Strength - around 15% is fine and 15 - 40 mins just wait for the aluminium to stop fizzing, clean and abrade the area, try again - no fizzing and it is complete - if you have one or two deep scores and the acid fizzes along the score then don't do that area longer than needed.
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Forgot to post the link - Piston Kit for HUSQVARNA 61 (48mm) [#503539002] | eBay delivery takes 4-7 days - had many pistons from Leo and never an issue. Most acids will dissolve aluminium - try either Hydrochloric or Sodium Hydroxide - I use acid and use safety specs and caution!
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Despite what Rich says, I don't have shares in Meteor, just recognize a quality product when I see it - these are made well, the Chinese ones may tempt you but what is £10 on 5 years trouble free use against a couple of outings and having a ring snap! Cleaning the bore - both acid and alkalie will dissolve aluminium so these are the chemicals of choice - you leave the chemical on to do the work - generally 15 - 40 mins, wipe it clean and then use abrasive paper to get rid of any residue and lightly hone the cylinder. 400 grit is pretty good at getting the right finish - I have used 180 on troublesome pieces but not too much. The bore should be smooth to touch with no transfer left on it.
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Sounds good Rich Tonight I have been fixing younger bruvvs blower, been standing and has jelly like crap around the needle valve - a good old boil up in the US cleaner and it roared to life again. I was also sorting a MS260 that the owner said was playing up after conversion to Aspen - seemed to run OK but cleaned the carb anyway! Got another MS200T to convert to Aspen and Burrells 372 to fix a wandering idle speed.
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Get an image of the piston and cylinder up on the site so we can see it - if it has seized, it would mark the cylinder bore so not sure how it can be OK - it will be obvious with images. Old fuel - fuel needs to be drained out of the saw if left for more than a week or two and then refilled before use.
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Disconnect the Kill wire from the coil and set the coil to flywheel gap to the thickness of typical A4 paper - this is a bit close for normal but hear me out. Strap the wires away from the flywheel replace the recoil and give the saw a decent hard pull in subdued light with the plug earthing on the cylinder. If you still get no spark, meter out between the plug cap and the kill wire connection - you should get a reading - can't recall what it is but it will NOT be open circuit - if it is and you have had to fit the spark plug cap parts - spring bit that pushes through the HT lead - it is this that is the issue. I wouldn't expect the magnets in the flywheel to go after two years:confused1:
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From the images I have seen they look very different:thumbdown: The mechanism may be the same though, not studied the IPLs yet!
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Good - don't want to wander out to the shed again - there be spiders in there:blushing:
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There is absolutely no reason why the saw should vibrate any more than standard as long as the AV is in good nick and the crank bearings and ends are serviceable with no play present. As far as the bar and chain goes - I can't judge on that but shouldn't have any ill efects on vibes unless it is in poor condition. If you do light work and not any really heavy stuff, a 15" Microlite Pro with Oregon 95VPX makes for an interesting combination:thumbup:
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Bugger, it is a Dolmar 100! Sorry - if any of those parts are any good.......
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Let me check it is a 109 lads before we get too excited
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I think your quest may be coming to an end, I have something that may be a 109 in my collection and the bore and pot look OK without having had it apart! just need to check it isn't a 112 etc
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No Worries Matty, just glad I had a bit of time to get it all sorted
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If it is down on compression then a new piston is a better option, you loose a fair bit of compression through having a sloppy piston fit - the rings are only part of the seal!
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I think Jon haz been on the cizzer and we have morphed - stubby+spud= Subby:lol:
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It could be a multitude of things but worth checking the piston through the exhuast port as Stubby mentioned. Make sure the air filter isn't covered in crap, worth pulling the cover on the carb held on by a single screw and checking there isn't loads of sawdust in the gauze filter. Try running the saw with the fuel cap a bit loose, it may be a tank venting issue - fair bit to work on there. One other possibillity is an air leak - this can lean down the saw affecting its idleing.
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Not familiar with the Stihl 5200, are they any good, is it a new model?
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Re ported 361 has anyone have one thanks all
spudulike replied to mendiplogs's topic in General chat
Jon has already asked...... not done one of these saws yet, the figures make getting a 361 to go something like a 560 easier than making a 357Xp to go like one which was my goal. 560 - 4.7HP 361 - 4.6HP 357 - 4.4HP I believe the above figures are correct - only trouble is that this sort of thing becomes an obsession and that is bad:blushing: It would be an interesting project though! -
Do a search on this site - I think Hodge was after one and it lists all the ones we use - mine is a TT-20K Tiny Tach Workshop model - no wires and uses a PP3 battery - good bit of kit - you can get the UK site on google - think the guys name is Richard Dunn - they send you the kit and bill you after receiving the kit
