spudulike

Quite possibly - but he is still short:lol:

I'm the big fella:thumbup:

Just an early sign that the clutch springs are getting a bit slack. Normally at idle, the clutch springs should be keeping the clutch shoes fully retracted!

Well the first attempt failed - got the degree wheel on, found TDC and then used a piston stop to hold the crank at 23 deg advance, sharpened the key and drove on the flywheel.....damn, Stihl flywheels have a steel central boss - it flattened my nice sharp key so am now filing in a new keyway and it should give some sort of registration crank to flywheel and will test with the degree wheel before attempting an arm wrenching test pull:blushing:

If the chain is in good condition then it is highly likely the bar has splayed rails and possibly one is worn more than the other. I have had a tuned saw at full bore in the wood with nothing coming out and no depth being made down to a bar that has worn. Try to roll the chain from side to side in the bar - best done with the machine switched off:blushing: and see what th eroll is like. Also remove the bar, put it in a bench vice and put a steel rule across the rails 90 degrees to the cut and look for the rails being longer on one side that the other (the rule will not be square to the bar). A sign of this is the cutters on one side of the chain getting polished away and the other side looking almost new!

Barries your man - think we must have been twins in a previous life:thumbup: If the saw is making a ring ting tinging sound - a bit like a small tinging bell then it will be as GK says - the clutch shoes just catching the sprocket drum. The fix - either lower your idle a tad and if this is not possible, fit new clutch springs. A simple test - apply your chainbrake and see if it goes. 346XPs tend to have rattly clutches, the shoes actually move on the worn central spider carrier part - a new clutch will sort this but it does give a heavier sounding rattle - new springs may also help. Other than this - you may have a bar side crank bearing rattling or small end play/rattle but far less likely! Good luck!

Just said the same thing on my bench thread:blushing: Think the OP has enough to go by or totally confuse him by now:lol:

MS200 - pretty simple job, as Rich says, take the torx 27 screw out of the lower handle and then the AV mount will either unscrew by hand or I use a pair of long nose pliers on the thin steel plate between the AV rubber and the saw crankcase to unscrew the AV from the crankcase - if you have the new one, you will see what we mean. As far as the blower goes, the bubble either needs replacing or can be cleared in a decent Ultrasonic Cleaner - the carb fault also sounds like the carb needs a good clean - it may be just woodchip in the small gauze filter under the carb top cover - the one with the single screw holding it on but could also be petrol residue/resin in the jets which is a carb cleaner or ultrasonic cleaner job. Worth looking at the fuel pipes and filter at the same time. Good luck

Well the MS650 ignition timing is at 23 degrees advance from TDC - just got to replicate that on the 066 now:blushing:

Welcome ...345s are good little saws - fast cutters too when set up right!

The 236 is a clam type crank case, it will need to be cleaned and re-sealed with a liquid gasket compound otherwise you will get bad airleaks. Not sure how you managed to get that compression but 210 will not stop it idleing, my 357XP runs 200psi with no issues on the idle and some old school domed piston saws can be 250psi and run fine. Sounds like a possible airleak or carb issue. Not sure of the standard carb settings on these machines but if they are over standard settings by 1/2 a turn or more - expect an air leak.

Got a bit of a project on, purchased a "Red Eye" 066 Stihl with a dodgy coil, fitted a standard one off a MS650 but the timing is picked up some 30 deg later on the new coil so all I got was some farty sounding backfires from a very retarded ignition timing. The parts are obsolete so managed to get it running badly by rough setting the flywheel with no key in place and a strobe timing light - this managed to show me where the saw was actually sparking. I am now going to work out with the aid of a degree wheel, what ignition advance the MS650 is running at and then will attempt to replicate the advance on the 066. I plan to knife edge the crank key and then line the flywheel up and bolt it down hard so the key actually forms a new "V" slot and then clean and smooth with rifler files. Very long winded but reckon it will be successful in the end- just hope the saws ignition is close enough as getting it too retarded and it won't cut for...brown stuff and too advanced and it will melt the piston! I will finally mark the flywheel and work out what advance it is running at idle and flat out to make sure we are around the 16 deg advance at idle and around 30 degs flat out. In a way it is nice to be doing something a little bit different!

No, I cut the hole, tab, bend - insert the tube, hammer the tabs shut and then braze in place using propane/butane torch - expensive silver solder but is pretty effective and relatively easy to get a good finish. I then just use high temp paint to finish - a few holes are drilled in baffle plates etc to improve flowbut not enough to make it ear shattering! If the owner wants more noise it is relatively easy to drill more!

I reckon the bloke was going " a little fast" lost it big style on the corner, hit the connie hedge that then bent under the car and lifted it over the BMW, over the next car and straight in to the house. I reckon it needs acrow props up pretty quick and the wall rebuilt and fast! The corners are a bit critical and judging by those cracks.......

Mmmm about par for the course in this game - only had one claen one in many MS200Ts. leaving them like this tends to damage the tie bar and/or break the leaf spring - both these were OK fortunately:thumbup: It now fits and works nicely.

Part 2 ......todays work, a poorly MS200T - not wanting to rev up, idle not too bad but all round dodgy:thumbdown: The owner wanted if fixed and ported so gave it the full stripdown - the seals were leaking a little so replaced them, ported the exhaust port, lowered the squish and did a muffler mod - started sweet as a nut and revs out well. The chainbrake was full of crud, typical of this type of saw but now operates a lot crisper!

Got your PM, will be on it in a minute. First one up over the weekend was a 372XP for porting, The first pic shows the standard cylinder, the second shows the mods to the base of the lower transfers, lots of blending and grinding. The exhaust and inlet ports got modded as did the upper transfers. Squish was lowered and a big muffler mod! Needs a tach but feels good: -

Think we had this conversation before but I use a bit of emery paper stapled to a bit of stout card and slide it between the lifted cylinder and the bottom anvil plate and then use this to sharpen the cylinder - a little dangerous but does the job:thumbup:

A few things you can do - the checks Rich is talking about are probably the best - if the saw still smokes then purge the oil tank of oil and see if the saw doesn't smoke with the tank empty. You could try pressurising the oil tank and seeing if the saw smokes badly when starting but it sounds like over oiled fuel - 50:1 with modern oils but sounds like someone may have used 25:1!

Freehand on blunt chains and bench grinder on any mullered chains. Common fault on many chains hand sharpened is that the cutter angle gets more acute as it is easier to file the end of the cutter than the hook. Had one of these in Friday and showed the owner what the line was for on the top of the cutter:001_rolleyes: Still - it was a lesson for life:thumbup:

I love the old cylinder mowers - maybe working on the cylinder is a PITA but my one is around 30 years old and runs beautifully - made when Britain WAS Great:thumbup:

he will love that...think he is getting wise to it though!

Yeah - 3120 - 11500rpm:thumbup:

MS200T is 14,000max, 372XP is 13,500 max - be careful it may have a rev limiter so edge it up to 13,000 and see if the tach goes crazy and leave at a tad over 13K, not got the figs for the 3120 here where I am!

Yes, too long in the workshop inhaling carb cleaner:blushing: Given be some weird ideas:001_rolleyes: