spudulike

Found that - no UK Shipping:thumbdown:

Got about 1 & 1/2 log stores of conifer seasoning, only drawback is the resin but it burns well and will kick out a fair bit of heat and for free - doesn't get much better. You can mix it with a bit of hard wood if you want it to last a little longer.

You should learn to use Google Rich:001_rolleyes:......http://www.manuals4u.com.au/?paiddownloads_id=141 looks like part 1117 647 9401 and looks obsolete to me:thumbdown: Think it is one to modify something else to fit - not too bad. Just read your RLNI thread, stirling work - shame you didn't find the guy but lets hope it was a hoax! Good luck:thumbup:

Just getting over an upper urinary tract infection, I sympathize about the pain and the loo becomes a friend! The worst bit is sitting on the loo, pissing standing up makes you pass out, and then pissing a thimble full and wanting to go again is the worse. Antibiotics and a week necking water sorted mine and am awaiting for the sample to be analyzed! Good luck M8

Possibly - I have told a few on here over a while! Good luck for getting it fixed, these old saws can be dificult to find parts - had similar with Burrells 298XP recently and he fixed it whilst on the phone to me with a bit of help...perhaps another service to offer ....098 calls - will have to get the wife to do it - and add the "smear grease on the shaft" line:blushing:

Isn't Aspen a breakfast cereal....Oh sorry, thats Alpen:lol: Not sure of the build on this pump but there is one trick I know that may help but that will come after you have gone through all the normal checks on the pipes, filter, worm drive etc What am I up to....recovering from a bit of a medical glitch and two conversions to..............Aspen:thumbup:

Personally I think it is the other way round - why is everything you touch a drama Rich, can't we get a straight fix once in a while:001_rolleyes:

It should do - one good reason why I pressure and vac test but difficult to do for the general owner to do.

The fuel tank vent is a short pipe with two grub screws inserted in to it. That one is the oil tank vent or at least it will be on an 048 - it probably has a through hole through to the oil tank!

It is the same one as on the 026 and others, aluminium with an O ring around it and small hole in the middle which is a one way valve - looks to be near the recoil side airbox cover mounting screw or possibly pushed in to the handle in the gap between the handle and recoil cover but less likely!

Hi Rich, the IPL makes it look like part 1128 640 9100 and is somehow pushed in to the oil tank around the oil and fuel caps, try just under the airbox cover and if not there, around the gap between the caps and the recoil cover - guess it may be under the recoil cover but thats your area! The part number is the standard Stihl oil tank vent. Had one of these saws once - big heavy bugger:lol:

You are better off using the Husqvarne clip - only about £3 - I have used jubillee clips and have had issues. Sometimes the rubber takes an hour or two to settle and make a full seal and generally leaks around where the original clip has been lopped off - too long and it stops the clip clamping the rubber and too short - it has the opposite effect.

Usual issues on the 357XP are the decomps on EPA models where there is, unusually, NO decomp button and also the carb inlet manifold and its clip, did yours have the metal clip? This was a modification and generally done badly by many mechs, it can cause air leaks - worth checking as is the throttle linkage isn't fouling on the rubber grommet it passes through between the top cover and rear handle. Other than that, it should settle down pretty quick on 1 turn on each.

Had some Burrell kindly donated and it has gone from a deep orangy red like red cedar to a much lighter sandy orange now it has dried out.

I thought the tissues were to stem the blood if the other half caught him with a big dirty chainsaw on their coffee table. Either that or to clean the oil of the said table:001_rolleyes: My other half would do her crust if one found it's way that deep in to the house:lol:

A socket and tommy bar are generally all a MS260 needs IMO, the only ones I hammer are the Husqvarna ones without the hex nut moulded in to the central boss. By the way - right handed thread, clockwise to take it off and use the stihl double ended plastic piston stop. To check it just remove the circlip of the end of the crankshaft, remove the clutch drum and then try to move the clutch shoes and see if they sit relatively loose on the central boss! There should be little to no play but will still work when very worn:blushing:

Hearing that, I am glad I don't sail:blushing:

Ooooh I bet your other half loves you:001_rolleyes:

Get your head round this - a carb from Stihl = £100, a complete Chinese saw = £70:confused1: is there any wonder why they fail....think Andy has hit the nail on the head with his post. You do get what you pay for. I would rather do £100 on a working 20 year old Husky Rancher than a £70 Chinese POC....just my opinion!

They have a nice farmers market, guess the pot plants are exactly that....POT plants:lol:

The issue with hot coils is the breakdown of insulation of the coils or components due to heat. Typically the coil will either give a couple of sparks if left to stand idle for a while and then nothing at all or the saw will start to misfire when hot ending up in spark failure. The OPs saw sounds like possible low compression - this can cause a saw to have enough cold compession to start but not enough when it is hot and has dropped 20psi. Most likely the No1 choice. The saw may have nipped up at some stage so a check of the piston through the exhaust port would be a pertinent check. The tank vent can cause some pretty weird running but mostly almost immediately if completely blocked and most commonly after a few minutes. Spark plug - possible as I recently had one go from good to bad in minutes of running and heat may effect spark. If it does it again - When hot, check for spark, check the plug is damp/wet after trying to start it - other then that, make sure the saw has lots of good spongy compression when the saw is pulled over top dead centre slowly.

Think we are getting confused with blacksmiths:001_rolleyes:

Generally it will be to adjust the low speed mix, the high speed being regulated by a jet. Can't be sure without the make and model but this fits most cases!

Yes change the clutch, the shoes on an older machine will wear on the central boss wearing both parts, this causes a clanking sound on idle that disappears once the chain is spinning. It doesn't seem to cause issues but it should make the saw sound tighter at idle speeds.

It will be the clutch shoes rattling on the central boss, a new clutch will resolve the issue