spudulike

Forgot to mention - got the ported 357XP ready for a lucky Arbtalkers father and when I fired it up, instead of it being silky smooth as they normally are, there was just a bit too much vibration for my likeing. Checked all the AV nounts, still not too good, noticed that when I grabbed it off the deck by the top handle it clonked a little:confused1: Got it back on the bench and pushed and prodded the engine around on the static rear handle and then noticed someone had replaced one of the lower underside bolts on the top main handle with an over-long one that was protruding through the lower handle and touching the lower crankcase causing bad vibes. Cut the bolt down and refitted - silky smooth AV now, just as you would expect. The moral of this is to be damn careful if you fit an incorrect screw or bolt, it is easy to cause issues if you do - had one hit the flywheel on a 066 once - couldn't understand how it had suddenly locked up when the top cover went on:001_rolleyes:

You will find the 026 a fair bit easier and lots of spares about! Not done too many Stihls apart from MS200Ts. I like doing Huskys down to the design leaving a lot of margin to improve!

Yes, it is a clam type engine and they are not the easiest saws to work on. Personally I would just do a muffler mod as others have suggested and see how much that gives you. You won't be able to lower the squish and actually getting to the cylinder is not a job for the inexperienced...no disrespect to you!

Whats on my bench - oil....lots of oil:001_rolleyes: Got an MS200 in for porting and a full rebuild, got a bit of an oil leak. I disconnected the pick up pipe where it joins the pump and connected a pop of carb tester and gave it a few pumps......oil pissed out of the filler cap. Tried various new O rings and it was still loose so fitted a new cap and tried it again......more oil all over the bench - the tank vent was pissing out oil - knocked it out, blasted it with carb cleaner and compressor, tested it and now it only flows one way (inwards), fitted an O ring as it was missing and all is now good - holds pressure so won't leak again:thumbup:

You could get creative and cut a piece of aluminium to size and then beat it in to shape to attach it with epoxy and screws to the underside of the saw...after degreasing - it would serve a purpose and then give ot a spray over for cosmetics! I believe crankcases are sold in pairs as they are drilled and doweled in the factory so no two are 100% the same - may be wrong in some cases but that is what I have heard!

The muffler mod I did was fairly minor so will tach it to around 500rmp off max revs. The saw has been seized and now has a new piston so it will be tuned pretty fat on the top end to protect the piston and leaned out after a few months running. In answer to your question - this richening up a saw after modifying is in fact rowlocks, I have yet to richen a saw up after any tuning....fact. What happens is that when you port/muffler mod, you INCREASE the flow through the carb and engine. This increase in flow INCREASES the venturi effect through the carb, this has the effect of pulling up more fuel from the metering section of the carb and therefore the carb actually needs leaning down - most saws I port are happily running on 3/4 turn and the plug colour is a dark to mid tan colour. In reality, you tune the modified saw to near maximum revs and listen for fourstroking (more obvious on muffler moded saws) and use this plus the plug colour to find out where the carb setting should be. If you have a set tuning regiem and know where a saw should be then it is pretty easy to dial in the correct revs to ensure correct running. As Eddy says - do a couple of big cuts then do a plug chop - take it out directly after finishing the cut an look at the colour - tan colour is good! Reckon you are running rich if it is smoking! Modified saws can sound a bit rich and fat when cold - it changes after the saws are hot and they rev out fine.

Well there's an image:lol:

And you can stir your tea with it:thumbup:

Seems to:lol: the vacuum and pressure check were perfect, unusual for a 357XP but it is now spot on, just got to put the clutch on and find a bar for it!

Luvly isn't it, thought it had been a while since it had seen the light of day:lol:

Nothing like that, got very drunk and they were great company, three nurses.... we had a great laugh taking the piss out of their compatriots that didn't like us having a good time....the wife was there as well so nothing sordid...honest:blushing:

Another busy day - MS200T finished, chain brake assembly overhauled to finish the rebuild. MS660 - put it back together, pulls 150psi when mildly warm so happy with that, got a muffler mod that should liven it up a little - all good, no fault found on pressure and vac tests, carb good, tank breather good and carb settings as they should be - no idea why it seized but all OK now! Pictured is the MS180 oiler pinion that was shagged - the arm on the old one revolves around the worm drive very easily - all good now - oil tank flushed out as it was pretty gloopy. Ported 357XP had a crank seal leak - seal now replaced and perfect!

Yeah - the only Germans I have ever got on with were three Lesbians I met in Croatia but that is another story........

Its a stainless lolly stick carefuly bent and crafted at one end:blushing: Seriously I use a screwdriver for opening paint cans:001_rolleyes: I stir my tea with a spoon:001_rolleyes: we do that up here:lol: I have no problem with taking a poo - no need to weedle it out with one of these:001_tt2: No idea and I think you are right - I can't see a practical use for one in what I do:thumbup:

Mmm, nasty one, looks like the piston has popped a lump out of it and it has entered the exhaust port and has dented the top of the piston and damaged the skirt. The crank bearings will need a good flush out, the inside of the crankcase will need inspecting as well. You may find that this has bent the rod and or the crank - not a nice one!

"Layer cake" is a decent film and worth watching, "The Business" for the great sound track and the first Mad Max film is witout doubt the best petrol heads film ever:thumbup:

The switch has sliding contacts so is self cleaning though a little carb cleaner may clean it. Check the tab isn't fractured and is earthing OK and then check the wire that goes from the switch to the coil. A multimeter makes all of this sooooo much easier

Ever thoght about putting a Suzuki GSX engine in a ride on mower - that would give it a bit of zip - just watched last nights TT racing - they had a mobillity scooter that had some sort of four cylinder bike engine in it and wheely bars....interesting:blushing: You love your mowers, don't you Barrie:thumbup:

I know, just stepping in before it rolls out in to the pub car park and the old bill are called:001_rolleyes: Rich is OK despite liking Stihl but think he may be on the change:lol:

Blimey, I have missed this thread....Guys...... Rich and Andy (Stubby) you are both decent guys, just do the decent thing and shake hands and move on. Ported saws....think once you have used one you sort of just...love them:thumbup: For a new user or a saw new to the owner, I usually recommend that they get used to the saw and if they feel that a little more clout is required then it can be ported once run in and out of manufacturers warranty. On the the subject of danger - my ported 357XPs run like a 560XPs so that is what you expect - a saw thet cuts a bit faster than standard and more like the later generation of the same CC saw - not dangerous but perhaps not for an inexperienced user!

Got the new throttle cable on th eold Stihl 011AVT, all fine now it has some fresh fuel in it. Half way through another MS200T rebuild, pressure checked perfect, new clutch springs fitted, one was broken. Coming along well - just got to fit an oil pinion and arm on an MS180 as well!

How about buying a reasonable saw, doing the work, giving it a clean and then reselling it? I know what £50 can buy - usually problems if you don't know your way round a saw! You should be able to get a reasonable MS180 or a Husky 136/141 for £100 - probably a better option unless you know this saw has some life left in it and the sprocket, chain and bar are in decent condition!

Very much worth £30 - ebay price for a working one is £80 - 120. It won't amaze you but will cut your firewood in reasonable style and cut through 10-12" reasonably easy! Anti vibe isn't bad at all - springs from what I can remember!

I am taking it that it is like this saw http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/05ade32a90691c9288256b6b0017d5b7?OpenDocument And not the Husqvarna 365 or the jonsered version of it?? IMO, I would try to pull £150 together and buy something a little newer. Old saws can be good but this old and you are looking for trouble and a headache finding spares! Let us know what you will be doing with it (yeah we know...cutting wood:001_rolleyes:) type of work and you should get some good advice!