spudulike

A socket and tommy bar are generally all a MS260 needs IMO, the only ones I hammer are the Husqvarna ones without the hex nut moulded in to the central boss. By the way - right handed thread, clockwise to take it off and use the stihl double ended plastic piston stop. To check it just remove the circlip of the end of the crankshaft, remove the clutch drum and then try to move the clutch shoes and see if they sit relatively loose on the central boss! There should be little to no play but will still work when very worn:blushing:

Hearing that, I am glad I don't sail:blushing:

Ooooh I bet your other half loves you:001_rolleyes:

Get your head round this - a carb from Stihl = £100, a complete Chinese saw = £70:confused1: is there any wonder why they fail....think Andy has hit the nail on the head with his post. You do get what you pay for. I would rather do £100 on a working 20 year old Husky Rancher than a £70 Chinese POC....just my opinion!

They have a nice farmers market, guess the pot plants are exactly that....POT plants:lol:

The issue with hot coils is the breakdown of insulation of the coils or components due to heat. Typically the coil will either give a couple of sparks if left to stand idle for a while and then nothing at all or the saw will start to misfire when hot ending up in spark failure. The OPs saw sounds like possible low compression - this can cause a saw to have enough cold compession to start but not enough when it is hot and has dropped 20psi. Most likely the No1 choice. The saw may have nipped up at some stage so a check of the piston through the exhaust port would be a pertinent check. The tank vent can cause some pretty weird running but mostly almost immediately if completely blocked and most commonly after a few minutes. Spark plug - possible as I recently had one go from good to bad in minutes of running and heat may effect spark. If it does it again - When hot, check for spark, check the plug is damp/wet after trying to start it - other then that, make sure the saw has lots of good spongy compression when the saw is pulled over top dead centre slowly.

Think we are getting confused with blacksmiths:001_rolleyes:

Generally it will be to adjust the low speed mix, the high speed being regulated by a jet. Can't be sure without the make and model but this fits most cases!

Yes change the clutch, the shoes on an older machine will wear on the central boss wearing both parts, this causes a clanking sound on idle that disappears once the chain is spinning. It doesn't seem to cause issues but it should make the saw sound tighter at idle speeds.

It will be the clutch shoes rattling on the central boss, a new clutch will resolve the issue

It will be the clutch shoes rattling on the central boss, a new clutch will resolve the issue

I have a premonition that the mods will mention arbtrader soon

Nice seeing your HS81 being used in anger:thumbup:

You could set it up as standard - one turn out on each of the carb screws and then get another to do the checks if anything isn't quite tight. Not the way I do things but may work out for you! I like to make sure that my repairs stay that way but I am kitted out do do so!

Pressure,vac,compression checks, check the tank vent, strip and clean the carb and finally tach tune the machine. Normal checks I do on saws that have seized.

Harsh way of cleaning it but would do the job. The OEM piston will work fine, just cost more. Make sure you know the reason why it failed before running it hard or do all the normal checks on reassembly.

There you go, piston slap, 1mm is very excessive but love it when I am right:thumbup: Use a Meteor piston but check the diameter I believe that they are 44mm but the later ones are 44mm. Meteor are close to OEM and check the bore is smooth especially around the exhaust port and I would re-bevel the exhaust port. Your saw has probably mildly seized at some stage, worth investigating why!

I have found that these saws rattle at the best of times, main reason is piston slap at BTDC. It is basically the piston slapping the cylinder as the lower skirt has worn. One test is to get the piston at its lowest position and move the flywheel back and forth and see if it rattles or clanks. Other than that, see if the clutch shoes are loose in the central boss - you could run the saw up with no clutch on it to be sure.

What shall we cover now Rich - perhaps we should start a "Found out something interesting today" thread:thumbup: Always good to learn a new fact or two...my bosses roof was constructed out of old ship timbers - very old oak frame and the timbers had obviously been used before - an expert reckoned Fench! Seems our Royal Navy in those days went round robbing anybody that sailed near them with something worth pinching.....sort of sounds about right...mugging our Euro friends:lol:

Think a little known sailor and explorer called Drake may have sailed out of Plymouth to upset the Spanish and their Armada.....but what do I know:lol: Think he was thought as a bit of a Pirate by the Spanish....the rest is history:thumbup:

Mmm - two places, same name, 80 miles apart:blushing: my dad used to work at the one I thought it was...Doh:001_rolleyes: Seen your map - it is full of orange dots!!!

Big thanks to Rob at Infinitree, he has yet again offered to get me out of trouble on an eBay pickup - another cock up on where places are - once mistook Plymouth and Portsmouth.....well they are both on the south coast:lol:

Nah, it is all easy, pretty simple in the main:001_rolleyes: Think if you read a few threads on here you may understand that it isn't all simple unless you are well aquainted with the principles of the two stroke and even then you can get some pretty weird things going on:lol: Generally, the more practical you are, the easier it gets:thumbup: Personally, I find working on saws bliss as you can get them on a bench and work on them with your back straight!

Check the fuel line isn't holed and the fuel filter us still connected!