spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Always on here bud, hope the saw runs OK now:thumbup:
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Nice one Barrie, well spotted, The holes in the muffler baffle can carbon up as well with similar results.
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stihl 4 mix hedge cutter engines- flooding of filter issue
spudulike replied to likeitorlumpit's topic in Maintenance help
Not being funny but can't you cut the breather pipe from the airfilter housing and stick a breather from a MS200T in the pipe:confused1: I can't believe the German engineers have got it wrong, it must be designed to leak:001_rolleyes: Perhaps one of you should set one of these on fire in the back of your waggon, film yourself using a fire extinguisher on it, stick it on Youtube and wait for the product recall......and yes, I am a cynic:thumbup: -
Blimey Barrie, are you slowly going crazy in that workshop of yours old boy, next you will be walking round looking for the glasses that are perched on the end of your nose:001_rolleyes:
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Thats the little fecker - the later ones are stainless so don't wear but the early ones are plated brass and do. Should be OK unless the bore is worn. That is if the pump is the real route cause:blushing:
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I know, I just try to hit a keen price point when doing these repairs and know adding £100 to my repair bill would cause most to scrap the machine. Each to his own and no disrespect......I can't fit a ride on in my workshop like yourself so much of my work is with scrappers:blushing:
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The 350 is something of a hybrid, the bottom of the crankcase is formed from the plastic that creates the lower crankcase itself, the 350 then has an upper crankcase formed by an alloy spacer that holds the crank bearings and also forms the platform for the cylinder to fit on, a bit like cutting a 1" slab off the bottom of a conventional clam type cylinder. Long and short, the 350 will take a flat bottomed cylinder from a 346!
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Yeah, one big softee I am - there are a couple of things I found in doing this that can total the carb but I learn't the hard way and have the knowledge to avoid/repair the issues - you will need to get me very drunk to tell you more:sneaky2::lol: This fix is also NOT a silver bullet, there are other issues with these carbs that can cause running problems - I have probably given you these sometime in the past:thumbup:
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Picture looks like a Poulan to me - sounds like a pile of poo to me:001_rolleyes:
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On an old bar I have 7.90mm slot width, on a brand new chain I have a gauge of 1.25mm and that is for a 1.3mm gauge bar!
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It is somewhere on this site on the cahinsaw section and I think on this thread also - it is basically taking the thing out and then sealing it back in with epoxy or some just take the plug out of the back and just seal that but personally do both as taking the pump spring out relieves tension on the throttle valve shaft and prevents wear.
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The smart money is on the one behind the rubber connector the oil pump pushes in to......and not the pickup pipe end:001_rolleyes: Just pop the rubber bung out and remove the last bolt:thumbup:
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Yes - 150psi on a well used but healthy MS200, typically 170psi on a little used low hours one. What was the bit about bar slots and teeth - I am guessing you want the diameter of the bar stud......for which saw and the teeth:confused1: What are you trying to achieve?
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Two MS200Ts finished and tested today, now got a few weeks fire wood - had to climb up a tree, lug my timber up and then cut it as you can't use these saws on the ground:001_rolleyes: One was a 2006 that had seized, cleaned the cylinder, fitted an OEM piston that was in good nick and dropped the base gasket. measured 210psi cold - highest comp ever:thumbup: It really goes well, tested on hawthorn, ash and elm - all hard and seasoned - very nice. The other one wouldn't idle at all, I had already refurbed it a few months earlier, took the carb apart and it tested out just fine so did the accelerator pump mod and all is good again, steady idle and top end - tested for 30 mins and fine.
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It is most likely wearing a 0.325" sprocket, a 15" bar would be best for speed and balance of the saw, two options really 1.5mm full chisel which is standard kerf and ideal for heavier work or 1.3mm narrow kerf Oregon Micro Lite Pro with 95VPX chain, this set up is lighter but will speed the saw up as it will be taking smaller chips out of the wood. Anything larger then 15" will slow the saw down and make it less easy to use IMO.
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Good guess, the crank seals and bearings have been replaced, reckon the coil knocked the original ones out:thumbdown:
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Been working on a 372XP, not running right, lumpy and no idle, found the coil was mullered - it is the one on the left hand side. The oiler pinion was missing the end of the rotors meaning it didn't work, the sprung loaded pin on the chain brake was missing, the chain break plastic spring retainer was broken off and the route cause of the poor running - a small crack in the carb pumping menbrane!
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Ditch that exhaust, you can see it will stifle the saw just by all that gubbins in it! Seen a couple of pistons like that, caused by piston slap at the bottom of the bore and will eventually shatter the skirt. It makes idle pretty "knocky". A new piston will bring it back to life:thumbup:
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Mmm, at least that chain brake handle isn't gonna come loose in a hurry now:001_rolleyes:
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Been working on a Stihl MS460 today, it was in the workshop to port, one thing that always makes me smile is when the saw that the owner needs making faster comes in with a real claggy air filter that must rob the saw of a good 15% of its power. Anyone tried running a mile with a face mask on or with a bad cold:lol: Anyway - the saw is done, exhaust widened, piston windows opened up considerably, the dual port muffler opened up and the squish lowered. It came in with a healthy 170psi but now has nearer 190psi so it should pull well, pickup is pretty nippy for a large saw:thumbup:
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I think last time I had it, the recoil got caught by the flywheel and ripped the guts out of it - not had it in for a year at least - I do get a fair few in though - ported a good number now!
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Looks like the top one needs building up with a new piece of plate and the lower one building up with epoxy - you can pin steel in to the casing as long as you don't drill in to the tank.
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Try this fella, I got four vermiculite fireblocks off him, very good price and fast delivery - just ask him for what you want.
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Yup, ditch the cat, it will kill performance. Put a dual port on it and open it up some more if you want a bit more go:thumbup: You can take the cats out but it is a bit of a chore!
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You may be able to get clever and fabricate a retaining plate for the broken part or even get an insert in there and JB weld it in place - just repaired a real busted up 372XP rear AV mount so much can be done - just need to get creative:thumbup: Get an image up so we can kick the solutions around it!
