spudulike

Glad you are happy with it:thumbup:

Not at all, I hate stripped threads and missing bolts, always like fixing them:thumbup:

No plug should do this as normal and the last few threads will be stripped out when it finally blows. New plugs can seem tight but the compression washer can compress and cause the plug to come loose. I reckon that the first time it did it it took some of the thread with it and now there isn't enough to keep it in when hot.

Trouble is the reach of the plug isn't much - around 9mm so if any of the thread is damaged, there isn't much left to hold it - done a few of these now. If you have a plug chaser tap then try it but don't get too close to the plug when you start it up:blushing:

PM me if you need it done, if it is stripped down, it won't be that much.

Glad I got rid of that saw...thanks for the exposure lads:blushing: Only kidding:lol:

Yes, another good quality option. I have found the aluminium inserts fail when hot so use Sealey copper coated stainless ones and these screw in damn tight and will never come out. I have also used helicoils in the smaller M12 plug holes and used the Vcoil tapered tap which worked well. Just avoid these £8 ones with a cheap reamer/tap. All you will do with these is destroy a very expensive cylinder by opening up the hole and leaving a very poorly formed thread......been there:001_rolleyes:

Here you go Bud.....http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/husi/husi2011_aaaa/husi2011_aaaa__24.pdf I reckon the image is wrong as the cylinder shown has a decomp valve but the cover has no hole Part - 575 25 59-01 The old part on the 365 non x torq is 503 62 78-02

Probably someone not tightening the thing up enough. It will have come undone, high temp exhaust will have blown past the last few threads hardening them and then...BANG, the compression blew the plug out when it was only held in by the last few threads. Someone may have cross threaded it at some stage weakening the thread. It is best to get someone who knows what they are up to, to ream out the hole, retap it and fit either an insert or Helicoil. Personally I favour the insert as they are damn hard and can be bonded in so will be stronger than the original but some rate a stainless helicoil. If you haven't done this before, don't be tempted by some of the shyte kits on ebay - they are shocking and you may end up scrapping the cylinder. Vcoil do some of the better kits on the market! A fair bit on doing one here - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/1061520-post6107.html

Yes, old saws were manufactured in a day where 25:1 mix was normal which is down to the quality of the oil and nothing to do with the saw. Things have progressed in 20 years and 50:1 is the norm on most decent manufacturers quality oils. Amsoil is even rated at 100:1 but Stihl HP will be 50:1

It may need a little tuning but it will. You often find lack of pump fuel can harden fuel pipes causing them to leak from where they push in to the fuel tank and also you sometimes get a few running issues after a few tanks but a carb clean resolves this. Personally, I fit a new carb kit and fuel line when converting to Aspen and warn the owner that I may need to clean ha carb again after a few tanks! Just wht I have found - it does smell better than pump fuel though:thumbup:

Very true, the wife took over loading the stove up when she went self employed, I forgot to tell her to check the second baffle and it went in a similar way due to this!

Did the same with my stovax - 3mm steel plate off ebay, angle grinder, drill, bench vice and big hammer - the original part did last 10 years but a new one at £95:thumbdown: My version - £10:thumbup:

Don't write off the crank bearings - strip it down and check the bearings by holding the crank end and moving it up and down and side to side - there should be negligible play! The bearings on the IPL look like ball races and they usually have no play if they are in good fetttle - easy job to strip the unit and check!

Dodgy crank bearings tend to give a hollow dry rumbling sound, once you have heard one go, you will know the sound forever! Big ends tend to thump - if you look at the piston through the exhaust port and rotate the crank to and forth, the crank will move but the piston won't if the ends have gone!

It is unusual for the big end to go - only seen one go! These blowers have a cast shroud around the flywheel and the bolts can come loose and clout the flywheel back side - worth checking other than that, worth checking the crank bearings - guess there is quite a load on the impeller side!

Anything with an engine that is working well, does it best without much silencing:thumbup: Hope your neighbours enjoyed it! I once "retrieved" a large lump of Oak off the side of the roead opposite a pub...........holding a Wake:lol: The noise was enough to wake the dead but want the heck - sure the departed soul saw the funny side:lol:

And what do you expect, the ported 346XP is a mad wasp of a saw and nothing else sounds like it - it sounds mad and cuts like it is crazy:thumbup:

So your in love Wes, what about those Irish ladies, not turning your head:lol: Nice saw, can I be best man:001_rolleyes::lol: I am guessing it was worth the dosh:thumbup:

Had a good weekend in the end, the 395XP from my earlier post needed the carb cleaned, it just would not hold idle - kept dyingbut a good ultrasonic clean sorted it. The 026 need the same, revs kept soaring flatout but all seems OK now. Sterted on two MS200Ts, the first one was a fairly old one, sounded a little dry and creaky on the recoil, fired it up and it had that hollow/dry sound that means only one thing - bad crank/crank bearings and lo and behold - the image below shows that the hardened surface of the crank has started to break down - one of the flywheel fins was missing so may have caused it but it was the clutch side so suspect over tightened chains as route cause. On the image - look at the rough surface on one sideof the crankshaft next to the lobe! Fortunately my spares included a flywheel and crank:thumbup:

I'm too busy fixing buggered saws, what is this X Factor, some sort of porn show:-)

I am not sure two weeks holiday was a good idea, been flat out since coming back. Had an old 020 in, it has a bit of wear in the crank bearings but as these run directly on the crank, it probably wouldn't help too much so replaced the leaking seals and have given it a good going over and will be returned with the recommendation to use it as a backup saw - just too old to spend too much on. Had a 395XP in, seized so cleaned the bore and fitted a new Meteor piston - pressure and vac tested, the inlet manifold clamp bolt was stripped so replaced it and lapped in a leaking decomp valve. FS400 engine - seized, cleaned the bore and fitted a new OEM piston - rebuilt a rusty recoil and all good, Stihl 066 Magnum - suspected air leak but pressure and vac tests were OK, found fine woodchip in the carb internal strainer. Stihl 026 - won't start, pressure/vac tested OK and carb stripped, checked and cleaned - think a loosw airfilter may have stopped the choke sealing properly on start up - will see what tomorrow gives:thumbup:

Worn bar or running a 1.5mm chain on a 1.6mm bar. Sounds like the chain is slopping over in the rails do the cutters are not digging in, seen it before!

You are welcome:thumbup: