Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

spudulike

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    14,773
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike

    Stihl 025

    Possible air leak that is made worse by moving the saw, perhaps a short on the kill wire or shyte in the carb. Worth checking the fuel line isn't split and the fuel filter is situated correctly.
  2. Those that know me know that I have a 181SE ex Army green Husky in my collection. I rarely get to use it but on our "boys day out" a while ago, I gave it a good blast and it was PANTS. I had mildly ported it and it really bogged - found out why today. I thought I would go back through the porting and check it out and made some significant changes. I then took the high speed restrictor out of the carb and capped it - this stops you leaning the saw out and when ported. I then checked the fuel line and bingo - it was split so have one on order now - looking forward to trying it again:thumbup:
  3. Pretty much what I thought, the airleak through the bearing would be restricted and constant, if the carb was set up to give a richer mix at idle and WOT, it shouldn't matter too much. It is only when air is being let in at high speed and the machine hasn't been set to accomodate it!
  4. Sounds like a similar system that is used on the 3120XP, there is a one way valve fitted in the crankshaft that can fail, last 3120 in had the hole plugged as it was leaking!
  5. On the 266 - may be worth changing the clutch side seal, itis the typical suspect but depends on how much mechanics you do. If you are tempted to run it, give the H screw 1/4 - 1/2 extra turn out but wouldn't recommend running it until a pressure/vac test has been done on it, especially if it currently has good compression! Any air leak will cause a lean mix and at high revs, the saw will over rev, this causes heat and enough to start melting the piston on the exhaust side and this transfers on to the cylinder and POP, the end of your saw running:thumbdown:
  6. Most arb types use the 110 on Sundays where they like to be called Cheryl and wear sling backs:lol: I had a 114 I refurbed some time ago, not a bad machine:thumbup:
  7. I believe the Limited Edition had a diamante recoil handle:biggrin:
  8. Been finishing off the 020AVT - one thing I really hate about this design is having to strip half the machine to get to the carb, guess what.................. the carb played up and the metering arm stuck open - got it going well in the end, slight bogging, tweaked the H screw and bingo, spot on now and cutting well.
  9. Probably a Dolmar of some type or other:001_rolleyes: 112/114.........
  10. Still pretty rough here in Hertfordshire, lots of heavy blustery wind, rain - looks horrible out there!
  11. There tends to be quite a bit of sawdust build up down the clutch side of the saw, you will need to remove the muffler to raise the cylinder. The only issue that may happen is the sawdust drops between the mating surfaces. You could make sure the cylinder base is spotless before raising it - not sure you will get enough flex in the carb linkage to do it though. Make sure you torque down the bolts very tight when bolting down the cylinder.
  12. And Tea at Reids in the afternoon:thumbup:
  13. They are the fellas, superb service and knowledge, I have ordered parts in the afternoon and had them the next day, very helpful and above all, good value as well - can't fault them. You may have noticed, I like to give praise when it is deserved:thumbup:
  14. Are you talking about the transfer cover bolts and the clearance to the rear of the flywheel?
  15. This is the 357XP although we increased the pop up size afterwards
  16. Looks like we have a 560XP in for porting plus to add a bit of spice, it will be running a pop up piston and some radical compression:thumbup: This saw is a bitsa so it is pretty much anything goes on it. It will be an interesting project!
  17. Lucky man, wages in Ireland must be good:sneaky2: It was a long time ago since I was there but found the pizza place - they did a weird one with stewing steak on it, it was rather good in a strange sort of way. When I was there, the Madeiran Wine Rally was on and they sponsored a Fiat Cinquecento rally car that was a right laugh, not quite as fast as the factory Celicas and Impretzas! This is the place -http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g189167-d1567707-Reviews-Pizzaria_Xaramba-Funchal_Madeira_Madeira_Islands.html Got good reviews still:thumbup:
  18. Jon, think you better rephrase what you are saying as it makes Eddie sound like a lap dancing rent boy.........unless this is what you mean:confused1::lol:
  19. Is that the island of Medeira in the Atlantic, home of the temperate climate with those channels that run down from the mountain top to irrigate the land...levadas, that's it:thumbup: If you are anywhere near Funchal, try the pizza place on the left side of the town facing the harbour, forget the name but it was pretty good:thumbup: You get about!
  20. Never had any chrome coming off any of my tools but most date back to my teens when tools were made to last - paid for themselves thousands of times over:thumbup:
  21. If you are Swampy off AxeMen, you wear the wifes underwear:lol: or is it one of his "Cousins":lol:
  22. Seen them on 346XP NE, 390 372 and probably more, think the 390 as well - we are talking that rubbery raised one aren't we - would use a good solvent clean on the area before sticking it down!
  23. You could cut a drainage channel with an angle grinder or use expandable foam, it sticks like to a blanket and fills big gaps! Get an image up - may get some other good ideas going! How about a length of guttering pushed under the walls to collect the condnsation!
  24. Check the easy things first, make sure the oiler hole in the bar is clear of wood chip and make sure the oiler channel in the bar mount is the same. Flush the oil tank with petrol. If that doesn't clear it, check the breather is clean, it is pushed in to the area just above the bar nount and is behind the nylon push in chain guide/buffer. If this is OK then it is most likely the oiler being plugged, the clutch will have to be removed clockwise, and once off, blast some WD40 through it so it goes in one side, and out of the other - do it both ways and be prepared to weedle out woodchip that has blocked the pump. Check the rubber block the oil pump pushes in to is clear of wood chip and then reassemble - check the oiler gear/pinion is good with no flats on the thread but I have never seen one go down. All should be good if you do this and it is easier than sodding around trying other methods!

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

Articles

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.