spudulike

I now use an old Black and Decker mains saw for a lot of my personal firewood and keep the petrol saws for the bigger more knarly stuff. Neighbours will be neighbours!

Is the machine running with the aftermarket coil? It is possible that the manufacturer got the initial start up ignition timing too retarded causing the backfire. The decomp flipping out may be the backfire causing it or just another aftermarket part which is a bit weak. The choke lever may have a bit of wear or a weak flat spring. Without the machine in font of us it will always be difficult to analyse what part is wrong with it.

Just remember the clutch spins of clockwise as it has a left hand thread. It sounds like the most probable cause.

And who says God doesn't exist!! What a life.

The last thing is possibly the bar nose sprocket could be seized up. Just a case of stripping the parts down and finding the dodgy part.

You need surgeons forceps for the job, this sort of thing: - Proops 5" Stainless Steel Straight Nose Locking Forceps. S7257 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Proops 5" Stainless Steel Straight Nose Locking Forceps. S7257 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many...

Got the arse with neighbours using his bin I reckon. I don't blame him.

The legal approach will be expensive. How about planting willow, they will lap up that excess water.

When you cleaned the transfer off, you didn't rub up and down the bore excessively in one area did you? This can cause a very shallow cavity that can knock off compression. It is better to get rid of most of it with chemical and rubbing around the bore. Try running it, if the compression is borderline, you will have issues starting it when it is hot.

I would be more concerned that your ear defenders may need upgrading!

The excess oil in the bore will usually give insanely higher compression as it seals the piston to bore nicely. I take it the piston was the correct diameter?

Don't, it is worse than going back to a non ported saw!!

Yup, the Nill Rate Band on inheritance is currently £325K and if the "main residence"is left, you have a further NRB of £175k on the property. This is per parent so if you lose your Mother and her assets go to your Father, the NRBs are parked until the last parent dies meaning £325k x2 plus £175k x2 or £1m before you pay inheritance tax. If the parent goes in to a care home, the £175k NRB is still applicable if the sale of the main residence makes up a portion of the inheritance. The long and short is that each parent has a NRB of £500k so you can inherit up to that from each parent before inheritance tax cuts in.....currently!

Doh

We had an ornamental plum and it put out suckers like that all over the grass. Drill the stump, put sodium chlorate in the holes and plug them with a bit of twig. That should do it.

I think that I will use my own generated food waste compost for seedlings next year judging by this black fibrous shyte. This reminds my of when the WEE regulations banned lead in solder. The lead free replacement looked like solder but it made my attempts of soldering look like utter muppetry and I have been using a soldering iron since my early teens! I then managed to get hold of three decent size reels of flux cored lead solder and they should see me out...hurrah!

Nothing on eBay, perhaps someone on here has a scrapper Pre Mtronic MS261 - must be a fair few out there judging by the clutch bearing issues with this model.

That helps enormously....and no sarcasm this time..... interesting, some muppet has fitted a Mtronic flywheel on a 2012 machine....no wonder it isn't liking it! On Chris's machine you can see the Mtronic connector on the coil. The flywheel must be wrong as long as Chris's machine hasn't been messed with. So, you need an old flywheel and hopefully you still have the old coil although the aftermarket one may work with the correct flywheel. Good thing I said check the flywheel is correct!

Keep an eye on ebay, you may get a second hand one for £40 if lucky.

That's not THE 660 is it?

Must be a Stihl 066 or MS660.....a bullet proof saw if it is. Never found anything that is much wrong with them, a solid work tool with no real weak areas.

In addition to the above, I would also ask L&S to check that your flywheel is for the NON Mtronic model. It is possible that someone has fitted the Mtronic flywheel on it.

It is really difficult to tell, It would be unusual for someone to change the flywheel as it isn't the easiest of things to remove. I would say that the coil failed or someone replaced it with some aftermarket coil that either isn't the correct one or is faulty. I once swapped out one on a strimmer and had a similar result and got a aftermarket coil but it was faulty and found the spark was around 180 degrees out. Started and run well with the correct OEM coil fitted. I have pretty much drawn a blank on your flywheel part code bar this - https://www.zeichnung.ersatzteil-service.de/zeichnung-datenbank/1000293.pdf How is your German? This appears to list coils 1141 400 1302 & 1141 400 4702 but can't guarantee they would work but guess one or both will. Personally I would phone a decent parts suppler like L&S, state the flywheel number and see if they can phone Stihl UK and get the correct coil part code for your saw. They purchase direct from Stihl so can call on them for info like this. One positive is that it looks like the crankshaft hasn't changed so that means if the correct coil for the flywheel is found, it should work. BTW, L&S have been my supplier for around 10 years and always have been 100% in all my dealings with them. Let us know how you get on.

Replaced loads of them in my time. Not one of Stihls finest designs.

I reckon you probably have a Flywheel part code - 1141 400 1200 If so, you need a coil part - 1141 400 1302 Post your flywheel part code when you have it if it isn't this - do you have your existing coil part code?