spudulike
-
Posts
14,767 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
ADW and Stubby have the whole picture nailed. The only thing I have to add is that I used to lap grind the valve in to stop it leaking if the vacuum/pressure engine test showed a leaking valve. The OEM parts are quality, the aftermarket are poor at best and listen to ADW - they often pop shut too early.
-
I have done a few of these machines now and gutting the muffler really helps get the best out of them. It isn't a particularly easy job but if you get rid of the very restrictive internal baffles and do the porting and ignition advance, these machines get a bit bonkers. The MS361 is a fine saw, I am servicing one at the moment but am only doing local work now and am busy with other retirement projects. Funny you mention the saw cutting out, the one I have in had the flywheel come loose but now it is running, the idle is a bit up and down so am replacing the accelerator pump in the carb and am pretty sure that is the issue.
-
If he was using short bursts, the H screw was running rich and turning it off often, you may get away with it. A member by the name of Gardenkit ran a strimmer for a fair while trying to seize it on neat fuel and was amazed how long it lasted, it can happen.
-
Fuel filter hooked up and out of position in the fuel tank, perished and split fuel line as per stubby, shyte in the carb gauze strainer shifting around, split inlet manifold with the split opening up when the handle is gripped.....what happens if you hold the saw down horizontally and then pull on the handle?
-
Dan is correct, it is the alignment pin from the clutch cover. It has come out and should be pushed in to the hole in the plastic cover and aligns with the hole marked in Dans pic. Best put it in with a bit of epoxy/loctite etc.
-
With the 200s I usually find it easier to just pop the oiler off, clean it and check fluid can flow through it, pop out the oil pickup, clean the filter and pipe, flush the tank out and reassemble. One issue I see often is when the pickup pipe is taken out, when it is refitted, it sits on the ledge 1/2 way up the tank and isn't positioned at the bottom of the tank. This generally means that the saw will run out of oil half way through a full tank of fuel but it looks like there is plenty of oil in the tank. You can check for wear by pushing a WD40 nozzle up the pickup side of the pump and then squirting fluid through it. A good pump will let a small amount through but a bad one will allow loads through. A bit of a subjective test but it worked for me.
-
Some carbs, especially earlier ones, have settings where the L screw does have an effect on the H setting. The old Stihl 020AV and the early 026s were a couple that did. At 1/4 turn on the H screw I would think that you have the low screw far too rich and are compensating for it with the H screw. I have no data on the standard settings for the carb on this saw model but you should set the carb back to standard and then adjust the L screw for a stable idle (you may need to adjust the idle speed screw) and then tach the H screw in. With the CAT removed, you may need a slightly richer mix on the L screw and H screw, 1/4-1/2 but not much more than that.
-
Strange, Golf pistons are usually not that bad. Not used one for a long time but have in the past and they were generally OK. If the crown to pin dim is +3mm out, it will never work.
-
You are totally correct as others have confirmed.
-
Glad it got sorted.
-
Sounds like the clutch springs need replacing.
-
OK, the piston is toast. There is a lot on this site about cleaning the transfer off cylinder bores. It is usually a case of taking the cylinder off, clean the bore with brake cleaner and apply acid or alkali to eat the aluminium transfer off the bore. If you have a "Score" which is a line CUT through the cylinder plating then the cylinder is scrap. Most often, the transfer can be eaten away using chemical and then the oxide removed with wet and dry emery paper....200-400 grit is about right. I usually hone the bore after this but a good rub with a coarse grit paper will work - around the bore, not up and down. As others have said, you need to ensure the saw doesn't have an air leak or another issue as all your work could go south very quickly!
-
Farmtec cylinders are as hard as a warm Camembert! The Hyway ones are much better and surprise surprise, they are more costly!
-
I reckon that the score is deeper than you imagine and you won't have much compression once rebuilt but stand to be corrected - pics can be misleading!
-
Have you checked the clutch drum bearing as this model is notorious for killing them. Other than that, make sure the clutch springs are OK but if the clutch drum bearing is knackered, make sure you check the oiler pinion arm is in good shape. The Mtronic ones were far better than the normal carb ones in regards to clutch bearing issues.
-
If you are checking for holes/splits, you can plug the filter end and use a Mityvac or pop off gauge on the carb end to see if the pressure drops.
-
I am not that familiar with this model although it looks like you can remove the carb, top cover and then remove the lower housing that sits over the rear handle. Sometimes you can remove the AV mount screws and any limit screws to pull the rear handle down to pull the fuel lines off.
-
No, I have a favourite pair of pliers that I always use to great success.
-
Who was it you work for
-
It sounds like an air leak. You can sometimes tell if you are very used to adjusting carbs. What you find is that when you wind the L screw in, the revs don't die as the L screw is screwed right in. Typically, if the saw was running well and you notice that the saws idle has increased and that the top end revs are too high, it is an air leak. The chain spinning symptoms can sometimes be attributed to a broken clutch spring or dodgy sprocket bearing so worth considering. The bogging could be lack of fuel.....blocked carb strainer, holed pump diaphragm, holed fuel line or fuel filter. I hope you have some time!!
-
Agree with that, I was just focusing on the damage. Looks like either the saw had a loose bit of debris in it or the big end is spitting out bearing cage white metal. Very strange that the bore is free of damage. What are the tops of the transfer ports like?
-
List the symptoms....does it idle, does the saw pick up OK, does the saw rev out, is it able to cut with power but has issues etc. If you pull the starter, does it have the correct compression as it always has had?
-
Oooh, thats a nice one, whats the bore like? The circlip failing is a common issue on cheap no brand pistons. Husqvarna use them and they always seem fine but the aftermarket ones are typically much softer, less springy and the tab can come off like yours. Best to fit new OEM or re-use the original ones.
-
Ash makes a distinctive sound when you split it. It sort of sounds like using a cold chisel on bricks, a sort of metalic "Chink" noise. It is very easy to split as well....very satisfying.
-
The 1.3mm bar & chain should liven up the saw by a decent amount but will not be as forgiving to abuse. The rest...as others have said.
