spudulike

I think the plug will not give any issues - the reach should be the same and the heat rating is the same - the one you have has a built in resistor but know no more - I have seen worst alternatives and don't reckon it will be an issue . On the grease - I just use a heavy LM high temp grease, my answer is that ANY grease regularly applied will keep the gears in good working order. These gearboxes fail through LACK of grease. The gears are relatively slow moving so any thick grease should do and just top it up regularly:thumbup: Others may differ in opinion but that is what I do!

On a 20", it was one bad boy - got a vid on Youtube somewhere! Ah here - [ame] [/ame]

It was 500€ = £385 roughly, the cylinder and pot are relatively expensive so not well off the pace but in my world, the pot may well have been saved, the piston....Meteor £30 or OEM £80 bringing the cost right down! The saw may just need setting up on the carb again, not unheard of when a new piston/pot has been fitted and run in. Any good dealer would have this in and resolve this quickly and know it shouldn't be charged for if it is just a quick tune in line with the original repair. If the dealer is unable to resolve the issue, charges more or fobs you off - then there is a real issue. The issue I have is with the saw not snapping back to an even idle and holding on to revs. This may just be a sticky throttle linkage but is also a classic sign that a seal is leaking under crankcase vacuum and pulling air in from somewhere - a faulty clutch side seal is possible as is the manifold which is easy not to fit correctly and a leaking impulse line. If the auto decomp is still fitted, personally I would convert it to the standard decomp as I have on all the saws that have come in with this fitted but make sure the lower hose connection is blanked off as mentioned earlier.

I would get the dealer to do what you paid him for and not expect any further charges. If you hit a brick wall then I am always happy to work on these saws:thumbup:

Bottom and Willy........just pushing the boundaries:sneaky2:

I'm on the North Herts/Beds border...on the right side:sneaky2:

It probably will have them but long reach sockets are damn useful when taking off carb nuts, decomp valves and fitting taps! 1/4 inch is also good for most small engine repairs, too big a drive strips threads! T bars are also good on small kit - spins screws in and out faster.

I know, still got it.....minus the oil pump I fitted on a neighbours saw:thumbup:

Sorry, typo, I meant the plastic one should be replaced by the METAL one as Mr ADW knows only too well:sneaky2: The auto decomps are the spawn of beelzebub and if you do change it, ensure the lower connection in to the transfer bulge is plugged.

Lots of stuff you never use in lots of different drive sizes:001_rolleyes:

Yes, from Special to 372 Xtorq

Are you sure you don't want me to pick it up again:sneaky2: Lets hope it is a better purchase:thumbup1:

Stuff like this rather explains why I am so busy. The saw must be pressure and vacuum tested to ensure it is 100% air tight as if it is leaking, it is possible the saw will seize again. The varying idle and reluctance to drop to idle is a classic sign of an airleak - it is also similar to the carb issue on older Walbro carbs fitted to these machines. It is very possible that the original cylinder could have been salvaged and a new piston fitted, significantly lowering the repair bill but it is too late for that! This isn't a Husqvarna issue as the 357XP is a fine saw when in good fettle. You need to verify if the saw was pressure/vacuum tested (often called "Leak Down Test") by the dealer before returning it to you, the rubber boots tend to leak when old and if it has the earlier plastic manifold clamp, it should be replaced by the plastic one! The poor hot starting may be the L screw over rich or too lean. Sounds like the saw needs to go back to the dealer and the correct questions asked, if they don't talk you through what has been done and resolve the issue, perhaps you need to find someone that does care!

The 365 special has a conventional designed two stroke engine tather than the strato type later generation design. The 365 special has a similar design engine to the older 372XP, nothing wrong with these saws bar modding them isn't as easy. The 365/372XTorq has a strato type engine, a radical design on the exhaust port outlet, strato pipes and separators in the inlet duct taking clean air in to the upper transfers - you did ask:sneaky2: Basically different top end, carb, inlet manifolds and top cover!

The original question was MS661 or 395XP, the MS660 and 395XP would be closer as both have been tested over time and are known to be solid work horses. My views are always based on the build strength and known issues rather than using a saw of this size, something I rarely do!

And that is why I remove and inspect the springs on any full refurb I do and fit new if the hooks have any wear in them. Just done four MS200s over the course of the weekend, most of them needed new springs!

I am looking for circa £120, it has a new piston, carb has been refurbed and has a new three head cutter disk on it.

I will see what I can do but don't count on me as an option as my time is always extremely tight!

Struggling with the part numbers, I am going to need the shaft diameter and the drive shaft diameter and type - am guessinng it is spline but need the numbers of splines. I have one or two that look similar!

Without looking and really finding out the cost - £70 - 80 without delivery!

Hows about you buying the FS220 I have just done up:lol:

Will see what I have!

Had this dialogue earlier, judging by some of the issues with new saws from both sides of the camp, sometimes NEW isnt always GOOD, the MS201 and MS261s were both with some pretty serious faults when launched. The MS661 had a fault of some type that led Stihl to stop production - not very reassuring IMO! Perhaps a saw that has done the test of time would be a sensible choice?

I have a box of various gearboxes for strimmers and brushcutters. I have no idea what most of them came from but if you give me the diameter of the shaft, the type of drive shape and diameter and a pic of the attachement end, I will see if I have something that will fit. I will need a few beer vouchers for it if I have one as everything I have has cost time or money but it will work both ways as always:thumbup:

I have a couple of old BG85s but if I did them up I would still want somewhere near market value for one and that is ebay prices as that is where they will end up once refurbed!