spudulike

The 192 has a little more go then the 150, is a little bigger but not as pokey as an MS200 which is heavier. It sort of sits in the middle of the 150 and MS200/201 in power and size/weight

It never will unless the wrong one is fitted, it will hit the squish band first!

Sounds logical captain....bloody amatures:001_rolleyes::lol:

That leaf spring should be earthed and it should touch the brass end of the black wire - the spring looks like it is proud of the brass end to me - meter it off and see if the black wire is connected to earth in the position you have it in the pic.

The issue appears to wear and collapse the fibre glass needle roller bearing. If not caught, the bearing needles fall out and then the wear really happens:thumbdown: It usually means the drum wears as does the oiler arm and can gouge the top off the oil pump.....really bad. Best thing to do is fit a steel cage bearing that will take a significantly harder pounding than the plastic ones! The easy check is to remove the clutch cover and put a finger on each side of the clutch drum and try to wobble it. If you can - fit a new bearing and if this doesn't fix it, fit a new drum and if this doesn't fix it, throw it in the nearest hedge:001_rolleyes:

I have just finished working on a FS220, very similar and would guess the bore is slightly smaller. It has a three blade head that is clamped in place - think it is 20mm dia. Bit like an older version of the FS400 in build and size! Seems pretty robust - it slaughtered the bamboo in my garden:thumbup:

I am still cleaning up the mess in my workshop:001_rolleyes:

Been working on a 346XP, very clean condition but it wouldn't idle and was boggy on pickup. Stripped, cleaned, compression 160psi dry and cold, piston looks clean with no marks. Pressure and vac tested and found a decent size leak, heard air escaping from the manifold area and bubbly fluid showed it around the impulse line. Popped off the cylinder as this has to be done on these saws and on inspection, found the impulse line to be OK but the impulse connection on the manifold was split badly. This sort of fault could have taken out the top end but was fortunately spotted and sent in to me for sorting:thumbup: This sort of fault is almost impossible to see with the plastic clamp in place on the manifold so removing the manifold is always a good idea. This manifold shares it's design on the 340/345/350/346/357 and probably more and can give issues like this plus if the saw has been apart before, it is easy to not push this impulse connection in the hole below the inlet port properly, crushing the protrusion and causing an air leak! I fit the rubber part to the cylinder and THEN fit the plastic clamp - ensures a correct and good fit each time!

Some have said, others thnk I am bonkers but just don't understand:lol:

:lol:

That may be the HT wire:001_rolleyes::lol:

I am only a year behind you, God help us:lol:

Mmmmm, They didn't come to me that way:sneaky2:

Not a bad little saw, lave it on a 14" bar and 1.3mm gauge and it will be a good choice. It is a home owner saw but should last well, value £120 - 150 if in decent condition, a little more if pristine! Maintenance - just read my "Whats on your bench" thread and you will be an expert:001_rolleyes:

You won't recognize it if you do:thumbup:

Do you mean the MS261???? It is notorious for knocking out the sprocket bearing that in time takes out the oil worm drive arm, the oil pump and the sprocket. The ONE thing that worries me with yours is the crank having worn. I have done a few of these and the cranks have fortunately been spared on all of them being much harder. If the crank is gone, then it will be a damn costly repair and not feasible. If the crank is OK then it is repairable - have you measured the stub end of the crank in various places to verify it has gone or is it damn obvious it has worn down in diameter??? The other ones I have done MS261s have had a new steel cage needle bearing when I have managed to obtain them and new oiler/sprocket parts!

No, it is a retaining spring, it wouldn't cause this. It could be a dodgy coil, worth checking the flywheel/coil gap with a business card!

Any sign of the saw backfiring is likely to be the flywheel key has sheared and now the ignition timing is running very retarded. Other than that, perhaps the saw is running rich and unburnt fuel is igniting in the muffler.

Check the fuel tank vent as well as the previous idea, I had a 630 with similar, try running it on its side with the fuel cap loose to see if it is the tank vent.

I noticed the square protrusion on the recoil, mine was circular, thought it may just be denoting the different country of manufacture but bow to your greater knowledge:thumbup:

Looks like an L65 to me, some were manufactured in Yugoslavia and some in Sweden. If it is running - £50 - 70, I did have one in real nice condition sell for circa £120 a few years back! Be careful what you rest it on whilst running as the exhaust vents downwards and can set grass on fire:lol:

I meant to post this thread and not the one I did - Stubbys saw was that loud it buggered up the sound on my camera:001_rolleyes: [ame] [/ame]

Echo usually put a sticker on the item with the year of manufacturer. I am not that familiar with the Echo stuff so cant put a date on it for you.

i None of my gear heads have part numbers that I can find so still need the external shaft diameter and the drive shaft diameter and shape! If I have anything that looks like it will work, I will load up a few photos!