spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The removal of four bolts against filling your engine full of steel swarf.......not the greatest of proposals!!
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I got fed up with blowing these schrader valves so did a conversion on my gauge that gave me a more reliable way of testing some of the high compression ported saws I create and run. For normal day to day use, you should find the gauge is fine out of the box, especially if you use some light pulls before the 5-6 you need to display maximum compression. The presta gauges have a low spring rate making them suitable for this application but there is a bit more to it than slapping in a different valve - just use the standard set up, it will give you the correct reading.
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You can measure the secondary pressure (typical compression) with the gunson as it is. Any other pressure/leakdown/vacuum checks are done with different gauges!
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:lol:
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Yes, it is the Gunson Hi Gauge, some car gauges use a schrader valve with a really heavy spring rate and these are totally unsuitable. The gunson one uses a very light sprung valve and works fine......unless you use high compression engines that tend to trash the valves - I converted mine to a presta valve as it works the same and purchased a shed load of them. Always give the saw a few light pulls before going for it as it creates some pressure and protects the valve. You CANT use this gauge to pressure/vac test engines, I use a bastardised Gunson Low Gauge and a Seeley brake testing gauge for this - one for each! You can buy off the shelf systems but are a bit more epensive! Look up primary and secondary compression in two strokes and leak down tests, you really need to understand how these engines work and why you are doing these tests to do them correctly.
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I use a Gunson one! I dont know if your dealer is a good one or not and if his diagnosis is right or not. Low compression may cause this issue you have, it could be the saw has seized, it may just be wear and tear. I don't know how well set up you are to do this sort of work, if the saw has seized, it is always best to pressure and vacuum check the saw before rebuild, just to make sure the seals and rubber parts are good. I have never written off an MS200 pot, they are usually salvageable and have repaired many in my time. The issue is if the saw has seized, once repaired, if the checks are not done, it may go again in a short while. You may find that you do the work, spend a fair bit and still have a saw that isn't good - up to you what you do but if you want a quote - PM me.....not pushing for work but can see the way this may end up.....out of pocket and no working machine.
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I think what he means is think about it and approach it with logic and technique:thumbup:
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Think he has a bit to learn:001_rolleyes:
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PM me if you want it refurbished otherwise, fit a new piston if the bore is good.
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Fit a new Meteor piston, done loads and always good!
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Not sure how the chain break caused fast running but glad you found the issue!
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No problems
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As ADW said - faster chain speed = more heat. I have had chains smoke and burn wood when using 8 pin sprockets on ported saws - just the way it is, fit the high output oiler to help!
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Well we made it past the 400,000 views on this thread - just wondering if it is one of the most viewed threads ever?? Perhaps one of the Mods knows? Thanks for the continued interest, I guess it has saved many a saw from being thrown in the bin in disgust for having the audacity to stop working:001_rolleyes:
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Oil Seal 12x20x5 for Stihl MS200T, 020T - 9640 003 1191 | Stihl MS200/MS200T/020/020T Chainsaw Spares They are very brittle so get a couple, I fit non OEM rubber and steel ones that don't shatter:thumbup:
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Three things to check - the needle valve on the metering arm is seating as it should, the metering arm is set to the correct height and if this doesn't do it, the high speed check valve (you refer to it as a "Jet" isn't sealing as it should! Not sure if the check valve on this carb can be changed, some can. A US cleaner may sort it if it is the issue or carb cleaner down the high speed screw hole may resolve it. The most likely cause are the first two issues listed though!
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On one of my posts I said: - "If the chain doesn't creep forward, it sounds like you may have an air leak in the clutch side seal - I notice when doing leak down tests that these saws can leak if the crank is pushed to ones side - just down to the needle crank bearings and hardened seals! " I would say that your chain brake is putting some sideways force on your crankshaft and that the seal on this side has worn or gone hard so is leaking air when the brake is on - fit a new seal!
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Just checked, it has an idle and a low speed adjustment screw - try as I said, 1/4 turn anti clockwise.
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The 350 is similar in construction to Stihls MS250. It has a bottom crankcase made of engineering plastic, the upper is a clam type affair with a conventional cylinder. They are capable saws, good AV and power, I had the smaller 345 and they are a bit like a home owner version of the 346 just not as powerful. If the saw is in a good clean condition then £150 is about right.
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I don't think we ever ascertained what the trimmer was but try 1/4 turn anticlockwise, probably a little lean in the mid range.
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Yes, but with a MALLET:001_rolleyes: A bit softer than a cast hammer:lol:
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It may work or purchase an aftermarket one and use the pipe off it, don't think you can purchase just the pipe. One of the issues with fitting a soft pipe is it amy collapse, the Stihl replacement pipes on older 066s came with a flexible spring that fits inside the pipe to stop this! Good luck
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Dunno but it was two years ago....a lot happens in two years:lol:
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Seen similar damage on MS261s where the clutch drum goes! All fixable.
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As the above although I do also have a good selection of pullers. The larger Pro Stihls have threaded flywheel inners where a specific puller can be screwed in to the central boss for easy removal - two types, up to MS660 size and another for the MS880! Never use anything like a hammer on the crank or flywheel:thumbdown:
