spudulike

I have a couple of old BG85s but if I did them up I would still want somewhere near market value for one and that is ebay prices as that is where they will end up once refurbed!

Of course, I wouldn't know this:blushing:

Most likely the springs, the needle is damn strong on these machines and only changed one in the loads I have done. Use the plastic Stihl double ended stop and spin the clutch off CLOCKWISE - left hand thread. The springs are under £5 and can be fitted by hooking one end and using a length of string through the other hook to make extending it easier:thumbup: Clean the drum and clutch up and grease the needle. DO NOT:thumbup: START THE MACHINE without the bar and chain in place - the clutch can spin off:blushing:

Another one bites the dust, he will have to live off his benefit this month instead of defrauded £3k:thumbup:

I would pull the muffler and see if the exhaust port is blocked with carbon. It is a common issue on these small bore trimmers where they don't get run flat out all the time and the exhaust ports are very small. It is not uncommon to lose half the port area with carbon giving poor running nad lack of power. I have got the piston so the skirt covers the port and eased out the carbon with a craft knife before and then brushed the debris out - go careful and it saves an hour or two stripping the unit down. Other than that - shyte in the internal carb gauze strainer, hardened diaphragms, metering arm too low, carb kit fitted and gaskets replaced in incorrect order, choke not sealing properly, carb needs a US clean, fast idle setting not set/working correctly, low compression/scored piston, blocked tank breather, soft fuel line. Think that lot is pretty comprehensive:thumbup:

The chain brake locks the clutch drum in place, if the saw picks up revs when it is released, it possibly means something is binding slightly between the clutch/crank and clutch drum! Is the chain spinning or edging forward on idle? If it is, your clutch springs are in need or replacing or your needle bearing is binding. If the chain doesnt creep forward, it sounds like you may have an air leak in the clutch side seal - I notice when doing leak down tests that these saws can leak if the crank is pushed to ons side - just down to the needle crank bearings and hardened seals!

Is the bull missing a leg now.........for Sundays lunch:thumbup:

Husqvarna get lazy sometimes, in this case they released two machines that were identical apart from the fact they detuned the 365 by fitting transfer covers with internal restrictors in them to take off a bit of power. Simply purchase the 365 and run it through the warranty period and then grind the restrictors out and you have a 372. You culd also change the recoil cover sticker to make you feel bigger as required:001_rolleyes:

I know the 357s had issues with these carbs, never heard of them on the 346XP, I did look at the IPL and it doesn't seem to list any pump or internal valve etc so probably not that and I think the 357XP issues tended to be wandering idle issues rather then flat out issues! Always interesting stuff though, my modified 346 can have the H screw wound all the way in and still pulls good revs, not sure if they have some secret bypass circuit. Never worried about it as it goes like a scalded cat on around 1 turn out!

What happens if you turn the H screw in 1/4 turn or is it fourstroking whatever the setting is? Not sure what the brass plug is?? The only brass bit is the high speed check valve - what have you done with this? It is a slight possibility that this has stuck open but would have thought this would mess up the idle in a big way! 12800 is pretty low for a 346 - are you sure the diaphragm has the spacer gasket between it and the main body of the carb. Make sure the metering arm is 0.3mm under the height of the sides of the carb body using a straight edge. Have you tried another carb. Be aware also that these coils if blue, are rev limited and although other saws coils look the same, the larger ones will kick in at lower revs than a 346XP - the coils are engraved with the revs they are limited to!

It is like I posted earlier, if you have girly fingers then don't even bother but this is the way I do it with great success!

Show it the sharp end of the 394, that should control it:lol:

I think this thread should "Go forth and prosper":001_rolleyes:

My bamboo was around 20' tall, if it isn't this size then considering it's proximity to the river............sort of makes sense! It is now around 2" tall:thumbup:

Yup, get us a photo, if it is like the typical 288/181 Husky clutch then it is a case of linking the ends of the spring together, fitting the spring to two of the clutch shoes, putting it in a bench vice and then extending the third clutch shoe, chocking it up so it is firmly in the extended position and then using mole grips and pumbers grips to extend and lever in the spring. These can be bitches but this method works for me!

Ours went bonkers, sending shoots out all over the place, I attacked it with a FS220 brush cutter I had done up and decimated it, just got to keep hitting it with the weed killer now! They start out well but then get highly invasive spreading 20" from the main plant!

No worries, glad it turned up OK, nice saw and always glad to help.

It doesn't work like that, they charge you and ask questions later - they held my Mother In Law in hospital until the bill was paid in full during a stay in Teneriefe - thats an Island of Spain, another EU country I believe! Other EU countries should treat the patient and back-charge the country the patient comes from.........doesn't happen though even with the E100 card:sneaky2:

Before 2008, the Yanks thought it a good idea that housing should be available to everyone, they lent money to people who, it was damn obvious, couldn't pay it back..............the catastrophic rest is history and led to the rest of the worlds banking systems going in to freefall as these house "owners" defaulted on mortages and then walked out on the debt leaving.....us to pay. It is a bit brutal but some are destined to purchase their own house and some will only rent, that is how life is, you work hard, accumulate wealth and purchase what you can afford. If a Government reduce housing prices so the less well off can buy a house, it is you and I, the great tax payer that will subsidise this. When some have worked hard to get what they own, it sort of goes against the grain that others can get similar wealth the easy way! I personally worked some pretty long hours 7 days a week for years to pull together the money to get my first house whilst others took the easy option, make it too easy and suddenly it becomes a right that others should provide and that is wrong and is a malaise that has unfortunately spread in parts of this society. I think we all aspire to get on in life but it should come with working hard, being smart and not from free hand outs. I think this is a bit of Conservative spin with a Labour type stunt:sneaky2:

A Carb kit comes in two versions, a short kit with just gaskets and diaphragms and a full one with the needle, metering arm and welch plugs - the difference in money makes it worth getting th full kit. Best place to get them is Rowena motors, very helpful but crap website. All you need to know is the model number of the carb. Fitting is relatively easy, just note the order of the gaskets and also, the metering arm height needs to be set after fitting. BTW- couriers get a saw or two to me for £10:thumbup1:

I have had saws that have fuel in them for 2-3 years and still fire up after five pulls, I personally store my own saws dry as I rarely use them as, for some reason, I am always testing saws owned by others:sneaky2: They also fire up in circa 5 pulls:001_rolleyes: The fuel will generally keep rubber parts soft but have also seen diaphragms go hard and rigid even when fuelled up as the fuel will evaporate in a short time. I have also seen fuel pipes turn to foul smelling grey gloop when left immersed in petrol. I don't think there is probably a hard and fast answer but a carb kit change and new fuel line isn't a real biggie once every few years - under £20 in parts and £25-40 to fit depending on machine type and then do a fine tune on the carb! Don't make too much of a personal preference - I drain them also for safety sake - someone once told me petrol burns pretty quick:lol:

That's just a design feature:sneaky2: Not noticed it but thanks for that:lol: Hope this week is better!

Blimey - you are a ray of sunshine today:lol: You have to admit that they sound great on idle......Oh well - you don't like them, i can live with that:001_rolleyes::lol:

Yeah, that was pretty good, the dead pan voices add a sort of extra humerous dimension to it:lol:

Mine has had a bit of porting, same big compresson and runs a 24" bar, don't get to use it much but it pulls like a train when I do:thumbup: