spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The metal caged bearings appear to be better. I thought there were issues in the machining of the early crankshafts but would be good if someone linked to Stihl could comment!
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There have been numerous threads that are very similar, strip the clutch drum out and inspect the clutch, drum, oiler worm drive and needle bearing.
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Some saws have a one way breather so if the fuel expands in the tank with heat, it is possible that the pressure may force fuel past the needle valve in the carb and flood the engine, especially on older saws with softer needle valve springs. If the saw has a two way valve, it should make it more reliable in extreme temprtures. I guess a reasonable thing to do is to leave the cap slightly undone and the saw on it's side if left in the heat or leave it in the shade. These are just my thoughts and not from experience though I have seen saws flood from doing the fuel cap up and this pressure forcing fuel past the needle!
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The brake should hold it firm, a saw makes little power until over 8Krpm and maximum power around 9500rpm so at idle, if the brake band slips, there is something wrong with it. Strip down the mechanism and inspect the components for wear.
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If you have fuel leaking out of the tank, if it ignights, it will harm you do get it fixed. Possibly a crack in the tank, holed fuel line, leak around the fuel line or faulty/missing breather. Also check the filler cap, it is possible that it wasn't done up correctly and it leaks sometimes.
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I will have to try that one, sounds like a nice business model, the only flaw I can see is..............
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Something lile this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=stihl+handle&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xstihl+starter+handle.TRS0&_nkw=stihl+starter+handle&_sacat=0
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Yeah, give it to someone who knows what they are doing:lol: In reality, just strip it down taking lots of pics with the phone and making close note of the order of the gaskets and diaphragms! There should be a gauze strainer in there somewhere and that needs to be cleaned if dirty. I would look at adjusting it first before stripping it, those carb screw drivers are available on ebay! Not sure where you are but maybe one of the techs on this site are close by!
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Cheers Andy, long time no hear, hope all is good. My MS200 refurb includes a new accelerator pump as standard.....funny that but it gets rid of that saw you have just refurbed playing up soon after return:thumbup: Just received 10 pump kits so lots in stock:sneaky2:
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Just go on ebay, they are usually only a couple of quid!
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Oh wooops:001_rolleyes: been a long day and not familiar with the Mitox range, thought it mighty strange:lol: Think I will let you sort this one out:thumbup:
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Beginning to make sense, I know you sell these machines Barrie hence mentioning you earlier. I thought the needle running down the middle of the barrel is usually raised to richen the carb but guess this is a bastardised version for chainsaws. Only ever seen them on strimmers or trimmers!
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Thats a shame, the woes of running a saw that doesn't oil, it looked like it had got megga hot:thumbdown:
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Get a photo up as it will help us see what you mean. On most carbs there are two screws close to ach other, the one nearest the cylinnder is always the L or low speed screw. The large screw away from the other two screws is the idle and is always adjustble. There are some carbs that have one screw only and these work by bypassing a regulated amount of air past the throttle valve - the MS171/181 are examples of this type of carb.
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Clockwise, Gardenkit may know the standard setting, generally one turn out from fully in but don't assume this.
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If it has a black plug then it sounds like it is running mega rich. It may be good time to see if the H screw needs adjustment or it is possible either the air filter is blocked or the choke flap isn't fully opening when the choke is taken off. Just be aware that if you lean off the H screw too much, it can seize the engine!
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Sounds like fuel starvation at high speed although it may have had a partial seize at some stage. Worth pulling the exhaust off and looking at the piston through the exhaust port, it should be smooth and grey with no black vertical scores. If that is ok then check the gauze strainer filter inside the carb, it may be filled with fine wood chip!
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I had a local guy complaining about me making noise with the saws I was servicing and then rocked up with two lawnmowers to service - people are strange sometimes. Reckon the OP should have offered the guy free wood for a bit of silence - most of my neighbours have had their kit serviced or have purchased it from me....keeps them sweet in the nicest way:thumbup:
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Ouch, that doesn't look good:thumbdown:
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I take it that the 350 Husky didn't oil too well in the end?? Shame as it looked in good condition apart from the heat damage.
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Just undo the nut and let the tightness of the nut undo the stud, put some grease on the external thread of the new one, put the nut on it, put some thread lock on the internal thread, put it in and crank it up tight. Let the thread lock go off over night and then put a socket on the nut and really wallop the socket wrench to jolt it off. Don't do this slowly as you may just undo the stud again but the 270 I recommend is a permanent fix and once dry, very little will shift it but not sure about plastic fitment. If the plastic thread is buggered, you may need to fit an oversize stud or get creative. It must be in plastic and not go through to the engine casting as I have had engines out of MS150s and not had to remove the stud before. Glad you are feeling at home, think Fred has taken up your place now with his saw collection:001_rolleyes:
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Taking the depth gauges/rakers down too much can make a chain awfully grabby. You may find semi chisel is a bit smoother.
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I believe the bar stud just screws in to the plastic case, if the thread is still OK, you should be able to fit a new one and would stick it in with a little Loctite 270 as this dries to be bullet proof. You could take the bar stud out, free the nut and then ensure the outer thread is OK and then refit with thread lock if happy with the outer thread. Don't you just wish you were still just down the road:001_rolleyes:
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Probably the metering arm is a bit high and is beig held open all the time making it flood!
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Try the paperclip on the tool bar at the top of the message window - it can insert a photo!
