spudulike

And another....from the same guy, a new MS150 with a sting. Fully ported, ignition advance and muffler mod...nice:thumbup: This is it cutting through a solid lump of 11" Oak.....yup, I like to REALLY test em:thumbup: [ame] [/ame]

This weekends Pleasure, a 395XP in splendid condition, very low hours and in for porting which I dis as shown. Lowers opened and flowed, uppers swept back and re-profiled, inlet and exhaust reshaped, more inlet duration added. I also have changed the ignition timing advance. Will run it up over the next few days but it sounds very nice:thumbup: Did a nice up and over shotgun muffler on it:thumbup:

I would agree with Barrie, sounds like fuel starvation so tank breather or soft fuel line are typical culprits - as well as the fuel line being holed! Try it again with the fuel cap loose to test the breather idea. I have had a couple of these have dodgy coils so it can be a fault but both have had no spark at all - a slight whimper of one if you pull the plug for the first pull then nothing. Good luck - think the smart money is on fuel and hopefully less expensive:thumbup:

Looks like the ones I get in:sneaky2: You will know if it is bio or veggie oil as it dries unlike the normal Still stuff. Once dried, it seems to rot the paint and needs a wood chisel and craft knife to remove it. It is really bad stuff to clean off a saw!

Nice, do you cut it with a nasal hair trimmer:lol:

Is the garden maze box, privet or yew? Can you take the baffle out with weed killer:sneaky2:

But the 346XP is the best:thumbup:

Just checked, the one I thought would do has a really graunchy feel and the drive wont drive the output shaft but strangely, spinning the output shaft spins the drive but it is a bit.....knackered:thumbdown: Sorry - better hope Mr Swinny has a better one!

Let me know if his fits OK!

yes, that was an interesting one:thumbup:

If you can so we get a definitive inner and outer shaft dimmension it will be good.

I believe there is a recall on these machines for this reason. I have had two 2014 models in and both had VERY loose retaining nuts - I crank them up tight so they won't come off again!

Will look in my box of bits, what is the dimension of the square? You got a set of verniers to do the measurements?

On OFFERING the arrisings back, don't just lob them over the fence, this is classed as fly-tipping - there is a site called "Garden Law" that I found useful when facing similar issues.

Probably some Polish fellas who will come in, pull up all the shrubs, burn them and then demand £200. Sounds like a really silly quote and very well possibly not a "like for like" one. The owner will probably regret it:thumbdown: Don't worry about it, move on......

You say that increasing the L screw mix so the saw is almost dying still causes the chain to spin and then say that you can't get the revs down???? A classic way of dropping revs on idle when there is an airleak is doing just this but if the chain still spins at low revs then the clutch spring is bad or something is binding between the clutch drum and clutch/crankshaft. You also say the chain brake won't hold the chain stationary any more - this is designed to snap the saw back to stop when running flat out so it sounds like this needs attention as well! It is possible the throttle is being held open a little or the throttle valve isn't closing well - try running it up with the top cover off and locate the throttle arm on the throttle valve and close it with your finger or screwdriver and see if it brings the revs down a bit. The saw over revving needs to be sorted so the idle is correct - Under 3,000rpm and if the chain still spins, the clutch and drum need stripping, cleaning and lubricating.

Bang on, you can cut back anything that is breaching the boundary including the roots but if it makes the tree unstable then you can be held liable for the injury/damage it causes.

Sounds like you have a fuel restriction as it will not make full revs without being on full choke but in reality, it shouldn't get to being anywhere near full revs on full choke. This being said - it may be fine sawdust in the carb internal gauze filter stopping good flow of fuel. It may be a holed fuel line where it is easier for the carb to pull air in through the hole rather than fuel through the fuel filter and fuel pipe. The fuel line generally fails where it pulls through the fuel tank - just had one of these on a 325HE! An air leak or loose carb is possible so check the impulse connection if it is a separate pipe and the tightness of the carb. It is possible someone has messed with the H screw setting - better find this out - perhaps 1/4 - 1/2 turn anti clockwise may do it but don't use this to mask a fault. Other then that - these four strokes are unreliable at best so worth looking at the tappet clearance as this can have some dramatic effects on the engine running correctly.

I know everything..........didn't anyone warn you:sneaky2::lol:

It depends on how you quantify....the best! Best handling, most power, most torque, best power to weight, best reliability, best to work on, best on fuel consumption, best user experience, best residual price on resell....... Much has to be said for saws like the 254XP and 346XP where they put in daily use, high hours and just.....keep on going with little in the way of issues. I have had 254XPs in still going strong after 10 years + use.....makes them hard to beat on many counts IMO. I like the 560 but the longevity of the carbs and crankshaft bearings isn't great - you just need to have a few days downtime to lose the value of the saw:thumbdown:

Need something like Loctite 270 - dries like metal and once in, it will NEVER shift. Even with heat it just makes it marginally softer - not good if the muffler ever has to be removed though!

It may be the way I am reading the OPs original post. If the saw is running for a period of time and then it dies and the only way to revive it is to let it cool down then I would 100% agree with what you say, obviously you know what is what and if these machines have dodgy coils............!! I read or understood from the post that it that it would start again after failing immediaely with a bit of choke and then die again but may be wrong hence my comments - you could try the redneck coil test - take an old plug, open up the end electrode so it is bent out at 45 degrees and then test the spark on the saw when warm - if it sparks then the coil is probably good.....otherwise just swap the coil over and see if it cures the problem, only issue there is if the original fault hasn't gone away, you have just done a bit of wedge:thumbdown: Not knocking your knowledge and no, not taking you to be rude either:thumbup:

The fact it will restart on full choke leads me to think either the tank breather is blocked or there is a fuel issue such as the blocked carb internal strainer or simply the carb needs adjusting by someone who knows what they are doing. Check the spark when the saw is hot but is sounds fuel related if it will sort of run a bit when hot and restarted!

Is that Husky sign in your Avtar somewhere around the Dartmoor area - somewhere like Bovey Tracey???

If it is an ex Torque, they do go through fuel lines and it can seize them so check this thoroughly. Other than that, check the carb internal gauze filter, a common fault and the plug is an easy one to change.