spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Of course many will share the same diameter pin, I just didn't want anyone to think that one size fits all, I would think most are between 10-15mm in diameter but not really spent time thinking about it!
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Yup, it was a Tanaka TCS 3301 and was a US import. It was for a fella on here called Rob and it also had an ignition timing advance.
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I tend to use the ones from the original piston. Each size gudgeon (wrist) pin will have a different size clip!
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Yes, they are a bit hard to pull over, porting will up the compression so don't expect it to get any easier but if they run well, they should start relatively easily! I can port it whenever you like, I compared mine to a 394XP in standard trim and it seemed to have more go in it to me:thumbup:
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Fit a Meteor, they are well worth the money and widely regarded as the best aftermarket piston on the market. Others may work but you can get rings snapping, bad circlips, dodgy ring ends, dodgy ring retaining pins, incorrect arrow direction on the piston crown, casting flash etc etc
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Yes, Catalytic convertor, the steel can will be welded so much harder to mod:thumbdown:
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Yes, 1 & ! on the H&L screws, I bypassed the brass governer as my saw is modified and couldnt get it off very heavy fourstroking. If the idle screw is turned right out and nothing is holding the throttle open, the saw should not still idle. If it does, it is likely one of the crank seals has failed, probably the clutch side one but change both. As ADW says, the fuel line often fails where it pushes through the tank so replace it. These saws can be made to run very well, reckon mine would match a standard 395 on a 24":thumbup:
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The big round thing in the exhaust is a KAT, it is fitted for the US market and will take out a fair bit of power. I just modified the Tanaka equivalent that has an aluminium housed muffler and popped the KAT out - see below -
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I use the Gunson Hi Gauge as it works on small kit. Some cheaper ones use standard schrader valves and will only work on larger car engines. There is lots of kit you can buy but it may be cheaper buying a new strimmer. You need to check you have fuel, spark and compression, the plug will be wet after pulling it over, you may have flooded it by now so turn the plug hole so it faces downwards (with the plug removed) and pull it over fast to expel any excess fuel. check the plug is sparking by earthing it on the cylinder AWAY from the plug hole and pulling it over and look for a spark. You can try this when it fails and it will rule out a faulty coil if it has a strong spark!
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No:001_rolleyes:
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I like T bars as they are small enough not to torque screws that much that the thread pops and also you can spin them which speeds up removal. I have cheap ones with T27, 5mm & 6mm bits nad the long extension bits for cylinder removal and then a ratchet heavier duty one for final tightening of critical parts. The ball ended Allen L keys are useful for carb and coil restricted access bolts where the ball end is invaluable.
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I have found that the aftermarket metal caged needle bearings last longer than the glass fibre standard ones. A bit of grease is good but remember that the drum and crank are locked together at speed and the bearing only does its work at idle! It is common for the standard bearings to disintegrate and lose their rollers, the drum then wobbles and takes out the oiler arm and can wear the oiler in bad cases.
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It is possible that the unit has a drop in compression when warm and when hot, it is causing poor starting. Try measuring the compression when cold - one big pull then take note and then 5-6 pulls and take note. You should have 70psi+ on one pull and around 130+ when hot. Very generally, if you double the first pull reading, it should give you the maximum reading after 5 pulls. It is the first pull reading that will dictate if the engine will start and anything much lower than 70psi will stop it firing.
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Looks like a manufacturing fault then, you could try an aftermarket one!
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Is it a fracture in the metal or has it worn the drum paper thin until it wore through? If it is wear, it is probably your clutch springs and if it has fractured, the metal of the drum may be too hard.....weird, never seen that before!
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You could try degreasing it thoroughly, letting in a piece of aluminum in to the hole and using JB weld to fill it in. You could use glass fibre and resin over the finished area and replace the chain catcher but as I said - the long term fix is to replace the cases - never too expensive secondhand! Just check the bearings are OK Seen fixes before and they tend to leak unless done very well:thumbdown:
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Pick up a set of cases including the crank off the bay and rebuild it. Probably better than lashing up a saw that will be a workhorse!
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That will be concentrated HCL (Hydrochloric) Acid, the gas will be Chlorine - if you sniff it up, it will reform in to acid in your lungs and rot them out. The stuff in brick cleaner is around 15% HCL!
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Seen some bad bevelling and plating on the Chinese stuff, even seen a piston with the arrow pointing in the wrong direction but got to say that Meteor pistons are damn good, never had an issue with any aspect of their manufacture.
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Try changing the fuel pipe, fuel filter and fit a new carb kit. It is usually the fuel system that fails in storage as fuel pipes soften and carb diaphragms harden.
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The saw is a bitch to work on if you need to get to the piston/cylinder as the whole handle and top cover assembly needs to come off and isn't a simple or quick job. As a saw they are OK but not one of my favourites!
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Only ever used one on a 372 or in fact the Jonsered equivalent and it worked well with full power!
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Not done one to date, usually a muffler mod will get more out of it for not much outlay but get the saw running right first as porting doesn't make a poorly saw good, it enhances a well running saw to make the most of it.
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Yes it is but have you tried half a turn on the idle "LA" screw first?
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That sounds awfully decent of you:thumbup: a little better than last time:001_rolleyes:
