spudulike

I purchased a non running Jonsered once and took the muffler off, looked in to the exhaust port....WTF, I cold see the ring ends and the ring location pin through the port:001_rolleyes: The joys of ebay:lol:

If you take ADWs part number, put it in to Google, it will list possible online dealers selling the part. Mowersonline.co.uk tend to be around the cheapest or just use your local dealer if you want to purchase locally.

It is really one for the dealer that sold it to you as the saw is still under warranty but it is probably fuel related as this is the most common issue with small garden kit. Unfortunately, the auto-tune isn't easy to work with and many dealers will just replace the whole unit if an issue is present. When you pull it over 10-20 pulls, is their lots of fuel in the cylinder and on the spark plug? Worth checking as it will show you if the carb is letting fuel through to the cylinder. If it is relatively dry, make sure the choke is shutting completely when on. When it does start, does it smoke like mad, 40 - 100 pulls with the choke on would normally saturate an engine in fuel and flood it excessively! It is also possible that the piston has had a minor seize so worth checking the compression is up in the 150-170psi range. 145 and lower isn't good and removing the exhaust gives you a good view of the piston and the part that usually scores up when the saw seizes. Also worth checking the plug out and making sure you haven't got a rare but possible issue with it. Personally, I would use the dealer - they sold it to you, 40-100 pulls is madness, I would expect a regularly used saw to work from cold on 5 pulls and 1 pull from hot.

I like this quote a lot, heard it many times and sort of fits in with "A fool and his money are easily parted!"

Spot on, I get enough wood for my burner from some of the local guys I repair saws for, I turn their kit round as a priority and keep their costs down so it works both ways - reciprocation is my code:thumbup:

But there is an arrow on the top of the piston pointing toward the exhaust port to make it obvious:001_rolleyes: Think we should be on stage:lol:

I can't think anyone would be that silly:sneaky2:

No heaters on this one, that aluminium transfer was pretty thick, not the worst I have seen but not far off it. Came off in the end and looks clean now. Should be OK once a new piston is fitted:thumbup:

I would think that the owner has run out of tallent:sneaky2: The vibration sounds like something is out of balance, was the flywheel or clutch removed, how did the original fail, does the saw turn over well with the spark plug out. It is possible that it was seized and during this seizure, the con rod was bent. Seen it before! The only real way of telling is to loosen the four cylinder bolts, place your finger on the cylinder and press lightly, turn the engine over slowly and see if the cylinder rocks from side to side. If it does, the rod is bent - it is possible to knock it out but you won't find the method in any book:001_rolleyes: It is also possible some shyte has fallen in to the main bearings and is causing the issue......and they say this is easy:001_rolleyes:

A couple of things to try - look unde the carb cover held on with one big screw, there is a gauze strainer under there, about the diameter of a pencil - check it is clear of woodchip. The other thing it may be is a hole/split fuel line, they tend to split where they compress in to the fuel tank! Other than that, the carb may need a strip and clean - try taking the H&L screws out and use one of those red pipes on a can of WD40 and get it down their screws before replacing.

Typical plants that will grow in mega dry conditions are Periwinkle, Rose of Sharon (Hypericum) and Rosemary. It may be Rose of Sharon!

Good, it should be tached to 12500 -13000 against a max of 13500rpm:thumbup:

Had a Husqvarna 576XP autotune in, obviously seized and in this case strange as it had actually left the engine locked up and not loose as is normally the case. I stripped off both covers, bit of penetrating oil down the plug hole, wrench on the flywheel and it came loose pretty easily. Popped the top end off, very clean saw but unusual in how defined the seize was down both sides of the piston. Not the normal less defined damage you get. The cylinder has been cleaned and lightly honed and looks pretty damn good with little visual damage and it can't be felt at all. New piston on order.

Looks mega rich, looks like either the air filter is blocked making it that way or the carb H screw needs some adjustment. It could be just too much oil being added to the fuel - 50:1 is normal. The electrodes on the plug should be the colour of coffee with milk added! It may be worth checking the exhaust port is clean as well, carbon can form near where it enters the cylinder and can fall in causing scuffs to the piston!

How is the search for a nae home going:001_rolleyes: Badly I presume:lol: You really have to get over the fact that lots of tools doesn't always make the best engineer:sneaky2: That tool kit is about as big as my workshop!

If the saw is run flat out freestanding, if it gurgles, it is probably running rich, Max revs are 14700rpm but usually set to 13500 - 14000. If it has a blue coil, it will be limited to 14100rpm. If you are talking about the gurgle on mid revs free standing, dont worry about it, they all do it! If the top end revs have been tuned correctly, the plug will go a md tan colour after 30 mins to 1 hr use.

More than probable, the glass fibre ones degrade very quickly!

For the record - MS261 rev to 14,000rpm max, on a new top end 13,000 would be good for the first couple of months and then re-tach to circa 13,500 when bedded in.

As I think you probably now know, it isn't just the "Swap out Time", it is all the checks to make sure the new top end isn't going to go the same way as the first so pressure/Vac test, fuel pipes, breather, carb metering, pump diaphragm, guaze filter etc plus the final tach etc to ensure the saw will last for many years. Do a straight swap and not caring too much about the end result - an hour may do it but if there is an issue not found, you will be doing the job again very soon!

Nice idea, must dig out the Arc welder and try it again - what sort to you use? Guessing MIG? I know what you mean about your commercial time and the fact I can spend as long as I like. It is doing it on homeowner kit that it really pisses even me off:001_rolleyes:

Will post it to you in future:sneaky2::lol: So 3 mins is £2.50 then:thumbup: I just dig in and use what I have around me, the time it would have taken me to find someone to weld it would have been better spent just doing what I did!

Put both the crank bearings in - this is where one of those real big old school G clamps comes in real use, it can be difficult at times but these went in well - I always clean and lightly oil the seat, make sure that the inner bearing is flush with the inside crank case. The replacement crank has been fitted in to one side of he cases, a new gasket ready to be fitted but just ran out of time to get any further!

Generally, the majority of saws pull 150-170psi but it can depend on the tester used. If you are using a Gunson Hi Gauge then this is typical after 5-6 pulls with 70-90 on the first pull. If you read 140 or under then check the piston out as previously mentioned - a badly seized machine will only pull 50-90psi, you typically need 130+ for combustion.

Cheers Barrie, you are a gent, got another 5 litres of the stuff on the way - keep it in stock as I keep getting asked to change machines over:thumbup:

Barrie - I have nearly got through all those Aspen stickers you sent me - been busy converting and also stick them on customers machines when I know they run Aspen! Have you anymore?