spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Used both helicoil and inserts, good results on both but the quality and straightness of the new cut thread is important with both methods! I posted pics on my "what's on your bench" thread if any one is interested!
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They tend to either Pop on the big carbs or leak down slowly on the smaller carbs. If you submerge the carb, it should be blatantly obvious where the air is going to as the air must be going somewhere! Carbs tend to leak a little but much less so if there is fluid in them.
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Exactly!
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The rattling will either be the clutch or the piston skirts wearing causing slap. Remove the clutch, fire it up and see if it still rattles and go from there!
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The only ones that I find come loose are the ones I forget to do up fully:blushing: I blame limp wristed mechanics for loose nuts:lol:
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No, all one big happy family on here but there are a few funny buggers on here as well:lol:
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Good to see you back again Wes, where ya been, not Madeira again? Trouble with your vid is that some may believe that this is how it is done:001_rolleyes: Funny though:lol:
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That is correct, your apology has been accepted......this could be a long evening:001_rolleyes: Just laugh at life:thumbup:
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Being a gent, I will accept your apology:shakehands:
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Getting smoking concentrated acid is going to be difficult and not necessary as a 15% acid strength works just fine. Safety specs and gloves are still required for safety sake though!
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OK, so I made an error and thought that dissolving chlorine in water produces Hydrochloric acid so any gas escaping from concentrated HCL will be Chlorine and not HCL gas! My mistake, it has been many years since I studied chemistry, I think the important part is that the acid etches away the aluminium transfer producing Hydrogen and Aluminium Chloride. AL + HCl = ALCl + H2 It works, we know the chemistry about the reaction, we know the dangers of using acid, .......we can all use Google:001_rolleyes: and you forget a bit in 35 years:thumbdown:.....fantastic, nice one, fab...and where did this get us????
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Sounds like saws at dawn again, bring forth the cord of Poplar, looks like it is cookie time......best of three cuts Husky V Stihl:thumbup:
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Worth taking the saw in and getting them to make sure the next one is good then, not a big job for them to fit and test:thumbup:
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So bolts on these machines ..NEVER come loose.........really, are you sure about that:sneaky2:
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If Husky bolts stay done up for a few weeks then they get damn tight and take some undoing to get them out again. I have had to grind ends off exhaust bolts before to get them off Huskys before now! A dab of threadlock will help but use one that allows dismantling again - some you will never shift!
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The key is meerly a location so the flywheel is located properly. It doesn't actually lock the flywheel in place. The flywheel is held in place by the compression of the flywheel against the conical faces of the crankshaft by means of the nut on the end of the crankshaft. If the flywheel key keeps breaking then the flywheel and crank havent been cleaned before assembly or the nut isn't being done up tightly enough. I usually crank them up pretty damn tight as a wayward flywheel may well total the machine - there are Stihl recommended figures but tend to use the feel of the tools!
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Thanks Barrie, I like a job that looks good and if it looks good, it is often pretty damn strong:thumbup:
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That would just knock the timing out, it would still spark OK but the spark would be in the wrong place stopping the machine running but in some cases may cause an alarming backfire (retarded ignition). Some saws need a very brisk pull on the starter - the MS660 is one of them and some machines need just a light pull - many of the older machines are like that - an 020AVT will spark on the slightest of pulls! I can't recall if the MS201 needs a brisk pull or not!
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Another interesting one, 346XP, fell out of a tree and it was also in for porting. The impact of the fall had knocked the throttle rod out of the rear handle so it revved like a banshee when I fired it up:thumbdown: The lower clutch side AV movement limiter was also sheared so set about fabricating an aluminium plate to repair it as if left, the top AV will get distorted in a very short time. This would be significantly cheaper than using new crankcases. After shaping, drilling and tapping it, I drilled the lower crank case, tapped the holes and used a little JB weld and a couple of recessed countersunk bolts to hold it in place.
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Yup, a real solid 8 hrs:thumbup:
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The see saw and bullet is the needle valve and metering arm, I hope the spring has been replaced correctly! Have you just given the H&L screw a half turn counter clockwise? Sometimes this can get the saw going again!
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Take the kill wire off the coil, check the gap between flywheel and coil is correct and see if you have a spark. If you don't, it is your coil - as long as you have tried a couple of plugs!
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Tonight I will sleep like a king:thumbup: Glad it is sorted.......for your sake:thumbup:
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Praise the Lord.....I haven't slept for three days:lol:
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They know a thing or two about fireworks as well! Each village celebrates its patron Saint on a certain week in the summer, these are calles Festas and finish in a big ol firework bash. I am going back a while but they were fantastic and can be heard across the island:thumbup:
