spudulike

It doesn't look too bad, if it was that worn, the ridge on the outer edge of the shoe would be a lot thinner than it is. Is the drum OK, often there are a couple of ripples running around the inside of the drum and you can feel them if you pull your finger from its back wall and over the area the clutch runs on. Worth having the springs off and making sure the shoes move freely on the central boss - little it of Copper Slip grease will help! The wear doesn't look too bad, not sure about the "only one side wear" - the clutch isn't too blued from friction heat through slipping.

The vids are on Youtube - user name Spidulike2 - not a typo, someone nicked my monika.....bloody cheek:lol: Stubbys 372Xp is about as loud, nothing much in the muffler and two BIG outlet pipes. It made the sound on my camera go crackly and got a complaint from a fella in the high street:lol: Cheers Andy!!!

We have had similar problems, usually on the first burn of the year or after the fire hasn't been alight for a couple of days or more and there isn't much wind. Generally the culprits are a cold flue, blocked flue or wind turbulence over the pot. We fitted some bloody expensive cowl called a "WindKat" which solved most of our issues as it increases the draw on the chimney and evens it out on windier days. We noticed debris gathering on top of the baffle plate so we pop it out weekly to ensure this is clear. The temperature thing - you can use rolled up newspaper or firelighters but you can still seriously get a bad blowback of smoke. A neighbour swears a nightlight lit an hour before the fire is lit works for him! If you have serious issues and don't mind a little expenditure, you can get draught fans that fit in the chimney and you just turn it on to create an up draught to make sure the draw on the chimney is good until warm. I think you really need to find out which one of the above you have and go from there. If the fire does it on windy days and when the fire is going, fit a cowl, if it is when the fire is being lit on still cold days - experiment with warming the flue and possibly a better cowl! My brother had big issues and had to raise his chimney pot a couple of feet more! Seems fine now.

Quite like the idea of the rivit, a large flat head self tapper and JB weld would probably do it as well!

The 395XP has more clout but the 390XP is more nimble and compact.....if you can call a saw this big NIMBLE:blushing:

Degrease thoroughly and then use JB weld and perhaps bond a thin piece of stainless over the repair to protect it in the future. A VERY thorough degrease will produce a better bond. Fibre glass resin and fibre glass sheet will do similar. If the saw is in warranty, it may be worth talking to your dealer as I know another that was damaged in this way.

Yes, I have one but the trouble is that it still has a saw attached albeit a seized one:lol:

If the machine is hitting the revs in the cut but the chain isn't spinning then it sounds like the clutch. Think of a car with a dodgy clutch going up hill - soaring revs but the car doesnt speed up!

I would expect it to work with a 16" but not have much pace. When the saw is in the cut and stalls, are you saying the saw is still revving? If so, it sounds like the clutch is worn. If it is just stalling/down on power and you think it is down to the engine being a bit worn then check the compression - see what it is on the first pull - 75psi+ is typical and then 150+ after 5-6 pulls is good. It is possible the plating is worn, the rings are shot or the piston skirts have significant wear. It is also possible that you have fuel issues, blocked fuel filter, gauze filter, holed fuel line etc Just give it a good going over!

I have yet another 261 in with clutch issues but is a 2012 model. I don't know if the later oes resolved the issues or not, perhaps someone with the later model -2014 onwards would like to chip in!

I agree on that point!!

My take is tha tthe MS200 is a great machine, has a few little foibles but pulls cleanly through the entire rev range with decent low down torque. The early MS201s were shocking and reminded me of bad 335XPTs, almost no go from low revs and sometimes barely had the power to spin the chain but spools up OK once running at mid revs but lack of decent power. The latter modded version still wasnt as good as the MS200. Not tried the Autotune model but a muffler mod and ignition advance on the earlier MS201 versions significantly livens it up in line with moded MS200 performance. The 540XPT has sort of MS200 like power IMO. I still reckon the MS200 is the best one, easly to work on once you have done 1 or 50:sneaky2:

Sounds like a decent offer, are the bearings and seals already fitted in the cases? Just preempting the next question:thumbup:

The cost of taking all the bits off and refitting will be a fair bit, unless you can get another machine that has good cases but the top end or crank has failed, I reckon the costs will be prohibitive. Probably best to keep it and buy a new one unless someone on here can help with parts. I had a similar 550XP with a days use on it from a member on here. Fortunately, I also had another 550 that had seized and repair was working out to be a bit pricy so a deal was done and the saw was repaired!

Just had a MS261 in for this exact fault, a big backfire on trying to start.......the flywheel removed and the key is obviously sheared off. The clutch on it was brand new and the flywheel was sporting a big gouge so reckon it was jammed in place and the clutch removed which spun the flywheel. The only addition is that the key is a moulded one on the MS261 flywheel so a new flywheel is ideally fitted rather than a new steel key fitted!

If it is part of the crankcase casting and is a mix of magnesium and aluminium then forget it, you will need new crankcases Sometimes lash-ups can be effected but I would steer clear of these on safety devices!

Think mine says it all, old battered 357XP going a little faster than Husqvarna ever intended:thumbup: I guess it just reflects what I do on this site rather than any other interests I may have!

The fact the valve jammed, did it take out the valve guide or did the valve contact the piston crown and crack it? Seems strange the rings would fail at bang on the same time! BTW, I know engines and bugger all about chippers!

A little bit weird failing after an hour. I would check the coil to flywheel gap, clean the carb out and if it still fails then perhaps the coil is at fault and the heat is making the spark fail after a while!

Does it stop in full flow, on idle, straight away on idle, when throttling down, when left to idle, when the top handle is flexed, on it side, vertical etc..........

Not sure if the link was bad as all I got was an old dude messing around with his wood in a workshop. Wasn't quite up to "The edge of Tomorrow" I watched yesterday!

I think I said all this:001_rolleyes:

They will have the same chain speed, the speed in the cut will be higher due to less drag but the actual sprocket will spin at the same speed and therefore it will pull through the same amount of chain it will just spin the shorterl loop of chain more times but not at a faster speed. The only way to increase chain speed is to increase top revs, increase sprocket size or change pitch!

Personally I would fit a new piston as compression is a funny old thing, you get a certain amount of compression from the ring and another load from the fit of the piston in the bore. I have found that worn pistons with decent rings will barely pull the skin from a rice pudding as it kills torque. You can pull air or pressurise a saw more easily from the plug hole on most saws or impulse line on other saws..