spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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OK, if the hole gets too big, a M8 OD insert may be an option if there is enough land around the hole.
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Sounds like the compression is a bit low and the heat of it running drops it below being able to start it again. Worth making sure the carb L screw isn't too lean making starting difficult but less likely to be the cause.
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Not used them but used very similar on sparkplug holes with good effect. On normal M4/M5/M6 holes, helicoils are the normal way to go unless the hole is mashed and an insert is the only way out. Easy Outs are the normal way of removing sheared bolts.
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If there is fuel dripping out of the exhaust, the needle valve is leaking or is being held open by incorrect metering arm height or hardened metering diaphragm.
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Sounds like it isn't getting enough fuel so check the fuel filter isn't clagged up, make sure the fuel line isn't holed or split - especially where it pushes through the wall of the tank, make sure the carb internal gauze strainer is OK, check the height of the metering arm, condition of the pump diaphragm, condition of the metering diaphragm and it should be one of these things. Not sure if the impulse line is a rubber separate one or internal to the carb but check this is clear as well or the pipe isn't split if it has a separate one.
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Friday deliveries are a bit suspect as the delivery drivers run out of time and everything gets marked as undeliverable! I use Ipostparcels and they are part of UKmail group and TBH, their online tracking and text alerts are good, their driver is good. They do damn long hours and he has delivered at 7-8pm on a few occasions! It is often easy to slag them off but many are self employed and get cock all to do their work and no time to make a delivery so finding a remote farm down an unmarked farm track is often not good on a Friday afternoon - no assumptions that the OP was this type of delivery! I had a mare with one shipment to Ireland and now use Parcelforce as they do an excellent two day delivery so use them for all Ireland bound parcels!
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This thread and also Arboristsite are good starting points!
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Probably not if you are asking me to do it as the costs involved, although not that high, would make it more than the saw is worth and unlikely to get the earnings out of it to pay back but if you want a go yourself............ Just don't assume porting is all about getting a dremmel and waving it about in the port opening a bit, read up about the subject and learn what the limiting factors are and make sure those port edges are bevelled well.
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You are right about that, it is obsessive:001_rolleyes: even got my blower ported:thumbup: If you send anything in, make it after the first week in June! Thanks.
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Glad it is performing well, the limiter wont make a difference as the saw wont hit the revs where the limiter kicks in when in the wood. If both coils have different advance ramp ups then that could make a difference. I dropped the base gasket, drilled the muffler baffle and widened the exhaust port. Nothing too radical as it was an uncharged mod but worth doing at the time. If I do the Dolmar then I will do more to it:thumbup:
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Been working on a 346XP, the question was "is it worth fixing"? My response, of course it is as they are damn good saws. Stripped it down, badly seized piston, found a split manifold on the impulse nipple and a leaking seal on the clutch side. The froth around the seal is soapy water used with the crankcase under pressure. Replaced the piston with a Meteor one, the cylinder came up really well and made over 180psi with the base gasket dropped, new manifold and seal fitted, perfect vac and pressure tests - all good and a decent repair for around 1/3rd of the cost of a new saw.
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You will probably be better just drilling out the hole and retapping the thread to the original size in the muffler, the one in the crankcase go ahead with the helicoil. For the record, there is no need to remove the bracket to muffler screws to remove the muffler!
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5mm X 0.8 on the support bracket where it fits to the upper dog mount, the ones that go in to the cylinder are 6mm. I think the ones that join the bracket to the muffler are M5 and if they are then they will also me M5x0.8mm.
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The wire in your pipe cleaners have scored the piston, chances are that it will not cause much of an issue as the ring has probably not ben damaged as it is harder than the cleaner. Just smooth the piston lightly with some very fine paper - finishing paper would be ideal.
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If it is dying as soon as the throttle is touched it may be that the L screw needs a tweak anticlockwise to richen up the idle. If you can get high revs out of it by feathering or pumping the throttle then the high speed needle is probably OK. The L screw sorts out saw performance from idle up to around 4500rpm and then the H screw kicks in. The fact you can get the saw to rev out means the H screw is probably OK. Often these small engines leave the factory pretty lean and then stop like this. You may need a specific screwdriver to adjust the screw - splined or "D" shape.
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The MS200 is complete and running well. The MS660 that came in late last Tuesday now has a new crank, mains and piston so complete rebuild and was up and running Saturday evening. Not bad for four days:thumbup: The owner was a bit concerned about getting it back so pulled out a few stops and good parts suppliers was the other key factor. He should be happy:thumbup:
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I would take it back to the service agent and ask him to take a look at it again. If it came back to me and I had missed it then I would charge for the springs and probably pass on the labour - that is if that is the only fault!
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Looks very dodgy to me, there is no Highbridge in Devon and no Husqvarna dealer!
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Idiot used pipe cleaners as a piston stop
spudulike replied to EairthTree's topic in Maintenance help
Oh dear, I feel failure I'm the air, when you mess up the rebuild just send me the bits:001_rolleyes: -
You won't need to play with the H screw as it will make no difference to idle speed on this saw. I would suggest stripping the clutch and drum, clean and lube it, fit new clutch springs and go from there. If the idle has changed and there are no reasons for it then it may be an air leak so go very carefully. If you can't get the idle down by turning the idle out around 1/2 turn and there is no reason why the idle has changed (previous fiddling/stuck throttle mech) then it points to an air leak and if that continues, the saw will go pop. Are the high revs still OK or does it scream a bit? Is it still pulling OK in large cuts?
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I know, I would rather inspect, measure and deduct that the parts are OK, won't last much longer or are shot. Expensive ones always get referred for approval with an explanation of what I think. It is simple but just like to make sure there are no surprises and the customer has the treatment I would wish for myself! I do good cost effective repairs, matching the age and value of the saw with the amount it will cost and the condition it is in.....all very simple in my eyes:thumbup:
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Always a good idea to snap some shots on a mobile phone as it has got me out of trouble many times:thumbup: Anyway - here is the IPL, it shows where the spring fits, just follow the assembly lines on the mechanical drawing and hopefully it will help https://honeybros.com/media/Brands/Husqvarna/PDFs/T540XP_Parts_List.pdf
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Idiot used pipe cleaners as a piston stop
spudulike replied to EairthTree's topic in Maintenance help
Nah, think I will give it a miss as most use piston stops or rope and gather they work OK:001_rolleyes: I would take the top end to get rid of all the debris, the steel bits would cause havoc with the bore and go very carefully refitting the rubber boot, I usually fit the rubber part and then the plastic support and clamp - it saves misaligning the impulse nipple. -
MS660 on the bench at the moment, big end failure so have pulled the bottom end apart. The £300 price tag of a new crank is too much to bear so am fitting aftermarket, new OEM bearings, new Meteor piston as it got a bit of damage from the debris. Should be back together soon. 346XP in, seized badly but the bore has cleaned up nicely and am waiting for a new piston. It needs a new manifold as the impulse connector nipple is split. MS200 for rebuild and porting, the owner listed a raft of parts he wanted fitted but am not fitting and am saving him money as none of them needed replacing and don't throw money where it is not needed:thumbup:
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Oh Damn:sneaky2: that Adw may be right then:lol: The blue coils are limited but only seen one fail and that had been struck by the flywheel. You have the earlier 372XP, damn good machines and port up very nicely!
