spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Idiot used pipe cleaners as a piston stop
spudulike replied to EairthTree's topic in Maintenance help
Pipe cleaners:confused1: Not seen that before! -
No need to apologise, I have had 3-4 fuel lines faulty and no coils on 372s bar one with a strange ignition advance. In fact, I test fuel lines now as part of a port or service BECAUSE I had a saw play up after I had serviced it because of the fuel line had a split. It may be the coil but we shall see, not going to fall out over it that's for sure. I would check all the other possibilities before buying a new expensive part. Hope the owner sorts it, split fuel lines are bad news!
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Be interesting. The Husky coils tend to be fairly reliable in my experience. Is it the XT older version or the newer Xtorq model? The later has the decomp sticking out of the top cover. If it is the earlier one, what is the colour of the coil? Just asking in case it isn't the fuel line. Does sound likely though!
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Not if it is a small leak and in many cases goes unnoticed. I usually plug one end and test it without removing it using a pressure gauge. You may be able to pull it through a few inches and then put some water and detergent on the compressed bit that sits where it has pushed through the fuel tank and use a bicycle pump or blow down it pulling it about a bit. The pressure usually opens up splits quite well. When the saw is running, air is often sucked in to the carb rather than fuel as it offers less resistance. Had a bad one in for porting a week ago! Fitting a new one can be a mare and make you feel like a gynacologist:001_rolleyes:
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I would go very carefully on this one as it may be a split fuel line, I have had a few go on 372s especially the Xtorq ones and it occurs where the fuel line pushes through the fuel tank. Symptoms are a good idle, will generally rev up fully but lots of bogging in bigger cuts. After a stint of this, the plug will be near white in colour! If it is this, it is possible the piston will fry hence the warning. It may also be fine woodchip in the carb internal gauze strainer. Other than that, sometimes coils fail, sometimes completely and other times they act like the limiter is stuck at mid revs. Do make sure the coil is set up with the correct gap and on the correct part of the coil.
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Last time I was there it looked like a lunar landscape, not too many trees especially on the south side! You sure this is a wise move!
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The screws that retain the engine in the plastic case have a habit of shearing - a bit of a sod to drill out but doable. The flywheel also can catch the casing just behind it - hence the two washers, each one costs £150:sneaky2:
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Yes, it was, think you owe me around £230:sneaky2: Ah well, that's life:thumbup:
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You know when you pull the fuel line off a carb and it pisses out a fair bit of fuel? This amount of fuel will find it's way in to the crankcase if the needle is shot or leaking and when you pull the saw over, the fuel will shoot up the transfers and straight in to the combustion chamber where it won't compress like gas as it is fluid and more dense! The breathers in many saws only allow air in but hold pressure and wont let air out hence the pressure I mentioned earlier.
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I would personally pressure check the carb and make sure the needle holds at least 15psi pressure. It may just be a worn needle valve, a badly adjusted metering arm, baggy diaphragm or dirt in the needle valve. With 365s it is best not to use the decomp valve, they don't make massive compression and using the decomp doesn't help especially when cold.
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The blower came in and the owner said it was tight to pull over, got lots of fuel out of it but guess if the combustion chamber is at least 1/3 full of fuel, then the compression would be excessive. The owner thought it had seized but in reality, the needle valve was stuck open and the tank pressure just pushed fuel in causing a fluid lock.
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A leaking needle valve would be the most obvious way. I have seen it on a blower in recently!
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Getting a bit redkneck Barrie:sneaky2: I know the feeling:thumbup:
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Thought it should be good, seemed a lot better than I imagined it would be, especially after seeing the damage the circlip had done prior to me having it. Glad you are happy
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It would look like the ring broke in the centre of the exhaust port and the dent in the roof of the port is the impression of the ring. It is really difficult to tell how much damage there is but I would reckon that the ring would have bruised that port edge and would need grinding out and that wouldn't be good on such a sensitive area. Like I said when we spoke, I have a couple of options but let me know if I can be of help.
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Reckon the small sealing ring on the oil outlet is missing then, either that or the seal on the oil pickup pipe is split - the parts are relatively cheap, the MS660 has potential to earn lots in a day.......need I say more!
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There isn't too much that can go wrong with the oiler mechanism. A few things to try - Make sure the oiler pickup pipe has no splits in the end that forms the grommet seal with the pump. Make sure the small seal is fitted between the pump and the oil outlet that connects with the bar mount oil channel. Check for cracks in the oil tank and oil pump. If I couldn't find anything, I would pressurise the tank and check for leakage. My guess is damage or the small sealing washer is missing/split. Worth making sure the bar oiler hole isn't blocked as well.
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Could just be under tempered but unusual with OEM kit, was it a genuine piston? If not, it may have got a bit of flutter at high revs. Other than that, the new breed Huskys have very flat exhaust port floors making a ring snag possible, especially of the saw had seized, been cleaned and the bevels not cleaned.
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Reckon it is time for a pic:thumbup: the driver looks about right with the one I have! I know the carb isn't this one but do the limiters look like the ones in this pic?
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Most of the ones I have had in have a sprung loaded limiter flange around the screw which needs to be pressed in to allow greater adjustments than the manufacturer has left you with. A splined driver should allow you to adjust the screw beyond set limits.......just make sure you know what you are doing!
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It is the "up & down" movement that is critical, you should not be able to feel any play - a good way to test is moving the flywheel to and forth whilst watching the piston move. I wouldn't worry about end float in the small end or big end and also on crankshafts like the MS200 running on big needle type rollers.
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The 261 - always check the clutch drum, needle bearing and oiler arm. he bearing often goes, it can wear the drum and the wobble on this can take off the end of the oiler arm. The rattle may also be a clutch with excessive wear or the piston may have a badly worn skirt causing piston slap. As ADW says, the play you have in the rod and ends is quite normal and is just end float and is there to allow the rod to remain vertical to its shaft!
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Looks better then your attempts at chainsaw maintenance - I often think that reminded me of a vicious Jack Russell having your wrist in its jaws and trying to shake it off - must have been the 346 springs:lol: Nice job:thumbup:
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Not sure I follow you, if it is holding 10psi, it is holding pressure as vacuum is measured generally in inches of mercury. I usually put a vacuum on the engine and if it leaks, you need to apply oil or lube spray to typical areas it may leak and it will hold vacuum for a short while until the engine sucks in all the fluid and starts leaking again. Seals can leak one way and not the other - pretty common!
