spudulike
-
Posts
14,772 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
MS150s are a bit strange, they have limited coils which means the saw will hit the limiter and then the tach will bounce all over the place. I usually open the H screw up to get the revs down and increase them to hit the limiter and do the last bit by ear. The MS150s and MS201s are a bit strange like that and unlike other unlimited carbs.
-
The 346 is a great saw and a worthy follow up to the 254XP!
-
What happens if you turn the idle up, does it continue to run? If you rev its knackers off when it starts, does it rev out? Have you tried turning out the L screw another 1/2 turn and giving it more idle speed to get it going. After all that is said, the 242 is an old machine and would benefit from pressure/vac checks and a new carb kit but the above is where I would be if I had a starter that died. Have you taken the muffler off to check the piston and done a compression check? both should be done as I have had a number of machines in lately with toasted pistons but good compression.
-
Think you mean the EPA but it has been rumoured that if we stay in the EU, all broken saws will suddenly start working again:sneaky2: Better than your dangly bits falling off if we vote to come out........at least that is what I was told:001_rolleyes:
-
Glad my old posts are still being used:thumbup:
-
Best get them shipped duty paid as the royal mail sting you for tax plus £10 and often add £££ to your purchase.
-
A tach takes the guesswork out of tuning carbs. If the saw is modded, it allows you to tune the saw and measure the rpm that works best so it can be reset in the future. I wouldn't be without one!
-
Looks like that is spot on IMO, good way to lose your hard earned!
-
There was a thread about this subject not so long ago, should tell you all you need to know.
-
Without testing, I would say leaving a saw to idle would allow it to cool down from full tilt running temperatures. I don't believe there are any advantages in doing this unless you are running a saw in where flat out running in short bursts is good but you don't want to generate too much heat.
-
Old saws don't gain much due to their mufflers being more open than the restricted modern ones.
-
And it has some Virginia Creeper growing in it:thumbup:
-
All you doing with a muffler mod is getting the exhaust gasses out of the engine a bit quicker by opening up the outlet hole and modifying the baffle plate if present. The exhaust inlet can be matched to the exhaust port in some cases. The muffler mod shouldn't be confused with a "Tuned Pipe" or expansion chamber, these use a tuned chamber to reverberate the exhaust pulse back in to the engine to develop more power and changed power band.
-
About as good as the MS200 I had in....I won't name and shame:sneaky2:
-
Probably not worth your while paying to have it on my bench but if you can do it yourself, it would be worth it.
-
A muffler mod would be the simple way to go as the engine is a clam shell type so it makes porting more difficult and gives less options.
-
Will PM you as I find there is always someone out there that can do it for £5, a half eaten Mars bar and a can of Iron Bru!
-
372XPs port up really well - one of the best:thumbup:
-
Yes but easing the cap is cheaper and easier then changing the tank! It is probably a slight distortion or the hole gone slightly oval!
-
The plug looks a bit light but also hasn't gained much colour yet. If it is tached to 13000rpm, all should be fine.
-
These caps should rotate the lower part of the cap which locks the cap and then the top should rotate, compressing the cap to seal it. Sometimes the cap doesn't rotate in the middle as it should so a clean and lube will help. Often the perforated ring under the top part of the cap binds on the tank hole and often stops the flippy bit folding down in the correct position - I have used a dremel on bad caps before now which has eased the issue.
-
It is possible that doing the crankcase bolts up may sort it but often the gasket gets drawn in to the oil tank meaning the cases won't hold the oil in. It is a relatively big job to split cases. Crankcase splitters are really required as weltering the crank end with a mallet is too brutal IMO! The bearings are a tight push fit in both the cases and crankshaft and not the loose fit like the ones on MS200s and some smaller saws!
-
The most common fault is the earth wire shears, often it looks ok but the wires break inside the rubber cover. Try replacing just the earth (yellow/green) wire and see if it works!
-
Split the crankcases, that will do it! I would usually cut and solder the wire for the reasons you have. You may be able to take the grommet out but wouldn't bother! In the past, I have just repaired it and used shrink wrap to cover the joint.
-
It will get a full check over, my over indulgent pressure and vac checks where any loss isn't acceptable, the fuel system will get a going over and I think it is looking like a 372 top end but time will tell.
